Would this cheap katana even be considered functional?

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May 7, 2014
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Ok, just with the way I am going to start this post I hope I don't jet get attacked for it, because I am pretty sure I am about to set off every red flag out there.

Anyway, here goes. I don't care, nor am I expecting this katana to be valuable or even appreciate in value, I know it was very cheap and is practically guaranteed to be of low quality. All I want to know if it's still a "usable" katana, or too low to even be used for cutting anything without the risk of the handle or blade breaking and it suddenly turning from a sword into a very dangerous missile flying off into a random direction. I only wanted to get a katana that was "functional", not one that was an investment or collectable.

I knew pretty much nothing about swords at the time (strike 1) and got it at an anime convention of all things (strike 2) about a year ago. Recently I had run into some tutorials and guides on telling if the swords you had bought were any good, and I am pretty sure I overpaid for junk at this point. I had purchased some purely decorative (and decoration was the only intended use for those) cheap katanas before from these guys, but last time I went there I wanted to also get a real one that could be used for cutting. I told them what they would recommend since I don't know what to pick (strike 3) and they showed me a $100 and $150 katana, they said the main reason the other was $150 was because of the engraved design on the sheath (strike 4 and 5). Anyway, I got the $150 one, whether it's real or not I am pretty sure I overpaid for whatever quality it is, and I know it's not going to anywhere near even most other low-end functional katanas at that price, but like I said, I just want to know if this can even be used to cut anything safely.

The real confusing thing is about the place I bought it from. First of all, the charge on my card says Dragon Song Forge, and half their booth was purely decorative weapons (mostly of characters from TV shows or videogames) while the other half was parts and real? weapons. Thing is, when I go to their website (which feels very rudimentary and behind) they ONLY have the option to have a katana custom-built for you, nothing pre-made despite their booth being entirely pre-made (well, I guess they can't exactly build one to order right on the show floor for you, but you'd think they would have pre-made ones on their site). And depending on how you customize it, they can go anywhere from $500 at the lowest to almost $3000, yet, their entire inventory at the show floor was basically just re-selling other brands. Second, I pretty much can't find any decent reviews on them, especially any made recently. There are only a few forum posts that even mention them from 2008 to 2010, and half of them are linking to the other forum posts that appear in Google's results, dead links, and more or less banter back and fourth on if they are a ripoff or legitimate.

Also, I noticed that another manufacturer I couldn't get reliable reviews on was called Musashi, and I noticed that some of the Musashi swords (but apparently not all) were renamed to Musha. The sword did come in a Musha branded box, but I don't know if that was it's original box since if they didn't have a box for a sword they sold they would just use any empty one that fit.

http://i.imgur.com/T2g6elK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VGDifNx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uxU63gG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iipHu0V.jpg

So anyway, on watching a DVD by Daniel Coglan on how to tell if the katana is any good (... that's... probably another strike... I hope I am not making myself look like a fool at this point), I tried to determine as many of these as I could from the one I bought:

Wooden Sheath - This I can confirm, it is made of wood

Wooden Handle/leather wrap/full tang - I cannot confirm this since I don't have a way to remove the pegs to check (yet, the hammer is on it's way). And yes, this means I cannot confirm the length of the tang either, although they told me it is a full tang and there are two pegs in the handle. They also claimed the handle is wrapped in rattlesnake skin (although they claimed this was to absorb moisture/sweat although the DVD said it's so the leather when it dries holds the handle together). I... have no idea if this is true because I have no idea what any snake skin looks like, it honestly looks like bubbly plastic to me though. The cloth used to wrap the handle feels like something cheap too, pretty sure it's not silk or leather.

Temper Line/sharpening scratch marks - Has a curved temper line (not triangular like angle-grinded ones), the scratch marks on the back of the blade all face up, on the edge if you turn it one way in the light they all go up, if you look at it in the light just right though I can also see some scratch marks going parallel towards the edge of the blade. Not sure what this means since the tutorial said they are sharpened/polished parallel down the edge first... but that then they are sharpened/polished up over that until the scratches going parallel should be wiped out.

Carbon Steel - They said this is what it was made of, I tried wiping it down and there was some silvery residue on the towel, but I don't know if that is oxidation or just dirt that was already on the blade since I basically haven't taken it out of the box much since I bought it, and certainly haven't cut anything with it.

Balance - It feels tip-heavy. It mostly stays balanced when I take it to a fully vertical slowly to a fully horizontal position, but once I get it below horizontal it feels like it wants to drop. Kinda hard to tell if it's balanced when pointed vertical or the blade feels like it has extra weight then.

So, I know that this isn't a good sword, and that I likely overpaid, but is it at least an actual usable sword? Or should it just might as well be a decoration?
 
The false economy with a cheap sword is that they frequently fail and can potentially do great harm to you or those around you, which would instantly transform the thing into an extremely expensive piece of junk. There is simply no way of knowing how this thing was engineered, becuase there is no credible manufacturer to stand behind it. Almost all of these are nothing more than cheap decorator items. Failure points are usually either the blade which can facture or fold, or the handle which can fail. Either way you would risk turning the blade into a dangerous missle.

If you want to test it, then go slow, wear safety equipment and make sure you do it somewhere that is far from people or valuable property. Or, better yet, save up and buy something that you know has been purposely made to be used.

n2s
 
That is good/great advice.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
FWIW, carbon steels tend to do a little better at failing in safer ways than the cheap stainless ones. I will never buy something unless I know exactly what kind of steel it is, however.

Dragon Song Forge has a bit of a history.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/585044-Fuck-You-quot-Dragon-Song-Forge-quot?

There's some mixed information about steel types, smiths, and cost. Steel MAY be 1182. I know they've at least used Chris Zhou's name on some of their blades, although I really doubt that they actually got him involved. Chris Zhou won the 2005 Masters of Fire competition with a gorgeous Han sword. I'd bet they just make cheap stuff and resell it as expensive, given the ethics of the owner.
 
Functional for cutting what?

Do you want to half some watermelons? maybe.

Do you want to cut rattan matts or soda bottles? I don't think so.

Do you want to really fight with it in a sword duel? NO!

Do you want to hang it on the wall to cut air. YES!

As another posted said, be as careful and throughly think it through if you want to test it. You could seriously hurt yourself or worse.
 
Musashi or musha brand swords i have found to be very reliable budget light target cutting blades. I am not sure if you are saying that is what you have or not, the brass disc near the guard often will have the brand on it. Typically the budget line is made with 1045 steel and retails for $80-$100. Many reviews/discussions on musashi 1045 swords are on sword-forum.com and you should be able to find it on http://www.musashiswords.com/shop/home.php?xid=75eea89526ca10b9cd76f12558c3db61
Cheers!
 
Reminds me of my first "sword" purchase. Hopefully I'm wrong, but it looks exactly like it, only different guard and colored wrapping. It was a bendy stainless rat-tang that I had to reinforce with copious amounts of glue to feel comfortable enough to start swinging it again; I had tried sharpening it (with limited success) and was chopping some small branches when it started coming loose and I opened it up to find the shittiest weld and poorest quality threading I've ever seen. Pure luck I didn't hurt anything whilst swinging it around.

On the up-side, the brass seems to be in one piece; If it is it's likely genuine. Mine had two separate flimsy pieces wedged together.

Even if it looks like a good sword which has had good reviews, counterfeits are very common, even for the mid-priced ones. Open it up and take a look BEFORE you attempt to do anything... athletic with it.
 
Ok, so the bronze hammer and peg arrived today, so I opened it up.

So far, good news on this front at least... well, mostly.

It appears to have a full tang:
http://i.imgur.com/xBCoU60.jpg

And wooden handle:
http://i.imgur.com/WmeotFt.jpg

I am not sure how to take off the guard or brass collar. But I saw no markings, signature, or branding on the tang or collar.

Also, one thing I just noticed that I am miffed I didn't see before. It has a ding at the very tip of the blade:
http://i.imgur.com/3rdoUMV.jpg

(I know, it's hard to capture with a phone)

It's bent in on one side of the sword and bends outwards towards the other side, almost like that ding is folded over to one side of the blade.
 
Unless you want to get hurt, don't try to use the sword for more than cutting the breeze. Items like these are wall hangers only.
Even a cheap, usable Japanese style sword will cost about $1000. That's for the sword the many iai/iaido teachers recommend.
If you want to get into REAL Japanese Swords (Nihonto), read and learn first then read some more, go to sword shows (not
Comicon) to see and handle real swords. Here's a place to start on the web. Hope this helps.

http://www.japaneseswordindex.com/nihonto.htm

If you have questions about real Nihonto go to the Nihonto Message Board. Everything you ever wanted to know
is discussed there by folks VERY knowledgeable in Nihonto.

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/index.php

Rich S
 
The tang and handle interface is the most critical part of any functional blade, and form my perspective that looks pretty solid. As long as you do a good job putting it back together you can use it as a practice-sword just fine. Actual cutting ability is, as mentioned, not guaranteed. I wouldn't bother sharpening it for the explicit use as practice, but that's just me. As long as you don't have to worry about the thing coming apart in your hands, do what you want with it.
 
I concur with Fancy Karl. The tang looks solid, The polish isn't totally terrible,it isn't custom class but some effort was put into it, the Bo-hi looks reasonably (for mass-production) well done, the tsuba may be iron, which is good. I'd say watermelons, and other soft cuts are probably fine, I wouldn't try bamboo though. The scabbard, for me, is the "cheesiest" part of it. If you could sand it down and fill that "carving" in, re-lacquer it black, and wrap it (there are You-Tube vids showing how) it would help the appearance immensely. Start slow,if you feel it "giving" at any point, hang it on the wall.
 
I didn't see the "blade pic", i take back what i said about the polish. :D - also, that isn't "rattlesnake', it's "faux manta ray".
 
Unless you want to get hurt, don't try to use the sword for more than cutting the breeze. Items like these are wall hangers only.
Even a cheap, usable Japanese style sword will cost about $1000. That's for the sword the many iai/iaido teachers recommend.
If you want to get into REAL Japanese Swords (Nihonto), read and learn first then read some more, go to sword shows (not
Comicon) to see and handle real swords. Here's a place to start on the web. Hope this helps.

http://www.japaneseswordindex.com/nihonto.htm

If you have questions about real Nihonto go to the Nihonto Message Board. Everything you ever wanted to know
is discussed there by folks VERY knowledgeable in Nihonto.

http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/index.php

Rich S

I'd like to point out to you newbies/idiots/wannabe's.....when this gentleman posts....it is gold...it is literally Moses coming to the mountain....there is not a contemporary writer that knows more about Nihonto alive than Rich S......and I know more about the subject than 99.4% than most of you.....lol.

To say that he has a life long knowledge base is to put it mildly.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I'd like to point out to you newbies/idiots/wannabe's.....when this gentleman posts....it is gold...it is literally Moses coming to the mountain....there is not a contemporary writer that knows more about Nihonto alive than Rich S......and I know more about the subject than 99.4% than most of you.....lol.

To say that he has a life long knowledge base is to put it mildly.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Seconded. I've often wondered what he thinks about the endless "is this cheap chinese katanesque thingie just as good as a real katana" threads. I'm not sure people always try to get the cheapest "functional" (whatever that means) sword they can get. Do they also buy 50 dollar saturday night specials? Frost cutlery? Used Yugos? Single ply toilet paper?
 
Hey! Single ply is awesome! Only kind that won't come apart and stick in your... Nevermind.

The reason newbies go for cheap is because they are just that; newbies. They want to try swinging a "katana-esque" type of sword to get a feel for it, without having to pay too much because they don't know if they like the style or feel of it. Of course cheap ones aren't as good as an example, but it's better than nothing. If only there was a sword-rental service somewhere. I'd try a new type of high quality sword every week! Sabers, rapiers, scimitars, katanas, machetes, It'd be awesome. Simply handling a sword for 15 minutes at fairs, shops and exhibits isn't nearly enough time to get a "feel" for it.
 
Gee, thanks for all the insults and "noob" comments guys (one guy even went as far as to call me an idiot)... I was just asking if I had gotten ripped off or not.

I never asked if my cheap katana would be "as good" as a popular-smith made $1000-$50,000+ sword, I just asked if it would be functional at all without breaking in my hands (and hopefully not IN my hands... or anywhere else in my body). To think a $150 sword would be anything other than lowest-end would be denial or massive ignorance, I don't know why people assumed I was asking if it was a high-end collectable. I just wanted to use it to try to cut bamboo mats and other similar strength (and weaker) objects with it, not practice in a dojo or actually fight with it. Chances are if I was enrolled somewhere to train in using a sword the instructor would have probably covered what ones to get. I knew nothing about katanas at the time I got it, was told it would be "usable", and now after seeing information that says likewise I decided to ask about it, no need to attack or insult me for it.

I am not complaining why a $20 sword from Amazon or a $50 one from QVC is no good, and I certainly understand WHY a katana in the four or five figure range would be of high quality, and that katanas cheaper would have sacrifices made. But this is the first I have heard of a sword needing to be at least $1000 to be bottom-of-the-barrel usable, many guides mentioned the $300-500+ line of Cold Steel or Hanewi swords as what is considered bottom-of-the-barrel with sacrifices made (and mass production) swords that could still be used to test-cut without being dangerous or risking breaking.
 
I'd like to point out to you newbies/idiots/wannabe's.....when this gentleman posts....it is gold...it is literally Moses coming to the mountain....there is not a contemporary writer that knows more about Nihonto alive than Rich S......and I know more about the subject than 99.4% than most of you.....lol.

To say that he has a life long knowledge base is to put it mildly.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

Steven and Triton -

I appreciate the compliment but I'm anything but an expert. Just a long time student and collector.
There are MANY more knowledgeable than I on the subject of Nihonto. Just check out the
Nihonto Message Board linked above to see what some really knowledgeable people can tell you.
I'm just a rank amateur compared to these folks. You all must realize that we in the West are starting
from a disadvantage. Most of the literature and really good swords are in Japan. Unless you have
access to that ..... well, you get the idea.
Rich S
---------------
Richard Stein, PhD

The Japanese Sword Index
http://japaneseswordindex.com/nihonto.htm

"Never go anywhere without a knife"
Leroy Jethro Gibbs (Rule #9)
 
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Gee, thanks for all the insults and "noob" comments guys (one guy even went as far as to call me an idiot)... I was just asking if I had gotten ripped off or not.

I never asked if my cheap katana would be "as good" as a popular-smith made $1000-$50,000+ sword, I just asked if it would be functional at all without breaking in my hands (and hopefully not IN my hands... or anywhere else in my body). To think a $150 sword would be anything other than lowest-end would be denial or massive ignorance, I don't know why people assumed I was asking if it was a high-end collectable. I just wanted to use it to try to cut bamboo mats and other similar strength (and weaker) objects with it, not practice in a dojo or actually fight with it. Chances are if I was enrolled somewhere to train in using a sword the instructor would have probably covered what ones to get. I knew nothing about katanas at the time I got it, was told it would be "usable", and now after seeing information that says likewise I decided to ask about it, no need to attack or insult me for it.

I am not complaining why a $20 sword from Amazon or a $50 one from QVC is no good, and I certainly understand WHY a katana in the four or five figure range would be of high quality, and that katanas cheaper would have sacrifices made. But this is the first I have heard of a sword needing to be at least $1000 to be bottom-of-the-barrel usable, many guides mentioned the $300-500+ line of Cold Steel or Hanewi swords as what is considered bottom-of-the-barrel with sacrifices made (and mass production) swords that could still be used to test-cut without being dangerous or risking breaking.

Don't get too up in arms here. Those terms aren't necessarily directed at you, and honestly, it's the internet. I certainly hope you don't base your self-image on what a bunch of total strangers say. Don't take newbie as an insult either. It's more of a statement of fact. The simple fact of the matter is that you, I, and most other posters on this forum ARE neophytes when it comes to nihonto. I don't really think that's a bad thing, and there are always those who like to find some way to appear more elite than others. Being a part of an internet community requires a thick skin.

That being said, Rich S definitely, despite his modesty, is worth listening to, with respect to nihonto, as much as anyone on this board. There may be others who are more knowledgeable, but that doesn't mean he doesn't have a considerable amount of knowledge to share.

In my experiences with cheaper swords like the one you have, light targets are fine to mess around with, but they don't handle like the real deal, for one, and as you've noticed from the roll in your edge, they're also not generally tempered particularly well, and who knows what the steel actually is (that's a big problem). I would definitely not attempt anything remotely close to a hard target, and also wouldn't be surprised when you damage the blade, even on softer targets like tatami. The issues you can have with those mystery steel swords is that, when you hit something too hard, or wrong, you can have parts of the blade fly off in unpredictable directions, risking your life and limb. Softer targets, more than likely, won't cause much more than a bend.

However, I'm also unclear on why a budget katana made by a reputable manufacturer isn't going to suffice for more than wall-hanging for the vast majority of sword owners. I'm sure that speaks to my ignorance about nihonto, and I admit I've never really had that much interest in nihonto. But it strikes me that, despite the tradeoffs, you're not likely to die or seriously injure yourself with a $300 Hanwei or something comparable, cutting some tatami or milk jugs. Sure, it's not the real deal. But I honestly don't see why the vast majority of sword customers in the US would NEED to have a genuine nihonto. Perhaps Rich can further enlighten the both of us.

As far as what Triton says, sure, there's the fascination with only getting as much sword as the budget allows, to try it out, and maybe that seems silly to you. It seems silly to ME to be spending 10K dollars on genuine nihonto when you aren't likely to do it justice, and most sword buyers can't afford that kind of expenditure. The reverse side of your argument also holds. It's, in my estimation, foolish to expect every single person interested in swords to just go out and spend thousands of dollars on their very first purchase. That's like saying, instead of starting with a Toyota (or a bicycle), you should immediately go buy a Ferrari. We all have budgets, and we all have different needs from our swords. Not all are collectors or serious cutters. Some just want to have some fun with swords, and functionally, I don't see how that's any worse than someone who does serious cutting. With no intent to disrespect, aside from the respect for historical tradition, as far as I can tell, serious cutting only really differs functionally from playing with swords in the level of intensity and the drive for self-improvement, and both of those are only potential benefits, and really depend on the individual practitioner. The use of swords is utterly unnecessary in the modern world (and I say that as a sword maker).

I guess what I'm trying to say is that if you mock other people for wanting to buy the best sword at the budget they can afford, IMO that's entirely a reflection of your ignorance, not theirs. It doesn't strike me as a bad thing for someone to want to buy something affordable to start out with, and see if they even really like swords and cutting. Once you learn more and practice more and take classes, etc, you'll know more about what you want to see out of a sword, and you'll be able to make more informed decisions. I suspect it's the rare sword collector who hasn't, at some point early on, owned a cheap eBay katana. We all must get started somewhere, and we all face different economic decisions, and want different things. Respect for each other, as always, goes a long way.
 
Just to be clear, I was not calling out Cyber Akuma.

I was simply stating that with the bandwidth chatter, it is easy to ignore someone as unassuming and humble as Rich S. He is the real deal....if for nothing else the body of work he has collected and contributed to....his was the go to source for information BEFORE I started studying 15 years ago and still is.

As far as cheapo swords....something always gives. IF you are just starting out, a PK or Raptor is a very good way to go....something that costs $100.00 in a sword like object is going to be giving something up somewhere...and you almost never know what that something is until it is too late.

Catastrophic blade failure is scary....that idiot doing the blade whack in the video that "got himself good" was using a cheap stainless sword that wasn't that sharp....most of the cheap Chitana ARE sharp, so that is just another thing to be wary of when screwing around.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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