- Joined
- Jan 12, 2011
- Messages
- 5,064
Full disclosure. Info from post(s) from Rick (a Friend of Rick and Robs) as well as Guidance right from Rick and Rob. Good info worth sharing, I will add to the Sticky as Macro-Issues and Solutions present themselves.
Thanks
Rubi
Centering the Blade:
Here we go:
1. Open blade to 90 degrees and tighten pivot so that it is really tight.
2. Close the blade and loosen frame screws so they arent tight, but still holding the frame together.
3. While the blade is still in the closed position, pull blade towards the side you want the blade to move.
4. While pulling blade, tighten the frame screws. (Note: Using a folded business card or the like wedged in between the liner and blade to Hold position works well).
5. Loosen the pivot and adjust it to the desired tension.
Disassemble/Assemble Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta8TwThsE2Y&feature=youtu.be
Small Parts
XM-18 3 Stock Stainless Steel Pivot Screw: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Pivot-Screw-Stainless-Steel-XM-18-3-In-p/rhk0538-mg044.htm
XM-18 3.5 - XM-24 - Eklipse Stock Stainless Steel Pivot Screw: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Pivot-Screw-Stainless-Steel-XM18-3-5-in-p/rhk0537-mf180.htm
XM-18 3" Handle Screws: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Scale-Screws-Fits-XM-18-3-Small-p/rhk0385-mc193.htm
XM-18 3.5" & XM-24 4" Handle Screws: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Scale-Screws-New-Style-Fits-3-5-XM-18-p/rhk0119-ma517.htm
Washers and Clip Screw Set for all models of XM Folders: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Folder-Parts-Kit-Clip-Screws-Washers-p/rhk0384-md086.htm
Eklipse Stainless Steel Handle Screw Sets: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Scale-Screws-New-Style-Fits-3-5-XM-18-p/rhk0539-mg049.htm
Pocket Clip Filler Tab Removal (Pic) (Remove BOTH screws. Had to leave one in for the pic, mine has been in/out )
Easiest method that works for me, Short end of an allen wrench that just fits (snug not tight) in the Filler Tab hole and then a gentle "pry" as to not dislodge the allen wrench and cause a possible scratch.
Knife Care and Maintenance
Minimal care is all that is required to insure the maximum potential from your knife. Cleaning your knife periodically along with lubrication with a light oil is all that is needed, especially after exposure to salt water or an acidic environment.
We use premium stainless cutlery steels in all of our knives. Stainless steel provides outstanding edge retention and corrosion resistance, but can rust if not cared for. It is possible for rust to form when your knife is used in or around salt water, exposed to moisture, or simply neglected. If exposed to salt water, thoroughly rinse the knife with fresh water, and then dry completely and apply a light coat of oil to all steel parts.
It is a good idea to regularly inspect the interior of the knife for dirt and grime. Clean inside the handle with a Q-Tip and water with a small amount of detergent or mild soap. Rinse everything thoroughly, dry the knife inside and out and oil all of the steel components. A couple drops of lubricant around the pivot will slick up the action nicely.
Sharpening
A sharp knife is a happy knife, and sharp knives makes cutting safer and easier. You should maintain your knifes edge regularly, the more it is used and the duller the edge becomes the more difficult it is to sharpen. We do not promote one particular method or sharpening system, but there are numerous available.
We do offer sharpening as a service, the cost is $15 and that includes return shipping in the USA, please drop us a line for the details.
Lock Bar as Explained by none other than "Rick" Himself.....
Hello Everyone!
I felt that I should write a post explaining the new feature on Striders framelocks, the Lockbar Stabilizer.......Of course as all of you have found out it is obviously a overtravel stop..in other words it prevents the accidental overtravel of the lockbar during closing of the knife...some of you have stated that sometimes repeated closings sometimes weakens the lockbar and thus the lockup is not as tight,well, I can visualise that,but actually the problem I wanted to correct concerning overtravel is the complete overspringing of the lockbar thereby rendering the knife useless...cant be done some say?...a little story of how I came up with it...I am firefighter as alot of you know...while working a accident scene I was using one of my Firetac's to cut the upholstry material around a seat post prior to using the jaws to cut the post...being that it was a good wreck, and adrenalin was running high,and the fact that we wear heavy gloove when working a MVA,I pushed the lockbar way to hard thereby springing it,and of course the blade could no longer lock,not a good thing to happen, at the wrong time! I knew then I needed to do something about it...The other issue I wanted to address was the lockbar springing towards the back of the knife when gripping it...this is what is not so obvious in a improvement...the reason is that sometimes the movement in the lockbar is not really noticable when using the knife under normal conditions...but when you use the knife really hard, and really grip it you WILL move the lockbar..this is because to make a framelock or linerlock for that matter you have to cut the long slot in the frame or liner to make the lockbar,it does not matter what size slot you cut you will still have material missing there...simple physics, suggests that you have a lever and it will move toward the back of the knife...guaranteed...now, what does this mean...1, whenever you have movement in a mechanism it is a chance for that mechanism to fail..2,extra movement in the lock to blade joint will wear the lockface quicker...3,when the blade is locked up on a framelock with the lockbar stabilizer there will be absolutly no movement in the lock....
So given all this is the improvement overkill? Extreme?.....when do we stop designing extreme use knives,as in ... is good enough the way it is?
Myself and Strider Knives design hard use knives gleaned from actual field experience,I didnt hear of this problem from anyone else in the field,I was in the field and experienced it!...Given the addition of the Lockbar Stabilizer Strider framelocks are even tougher and more hardcore than before..worth it? YOU BET!!
Rick Hinderer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Again, I will Add to this "sticky" as Helpful Info presents itself and "We" can then reference the sticky to answer questions in the future.
Rubi
Thanks
Rubi
Centering the Blade:
Here we go:
1. Open blade to 90 degrees and tighten pivot so that it is really tight.
2. Close the blade and loosen frame screws so they arent tight, but still holding the frame together.
3. While the blade is still in the closed position, pull blade towards the side you want the blade to move.
4. While pulling blade, tighten the frame screws. (Note: Using a folded business card or the like wedged in between the liner and blade to Hold position works well).
5. Loosen the pivot and adjust it to the desired tension.
Disassemble/Assemble Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ta8TwThsE2Y&feature=youtu.be
Small Parts
XM-18 3 Stock Stainless Steel Pivot Screw: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Pivot-Screw-Stainless-Steel-XM-18-3-In-p/rhk0538-mg044.htm
XM-18 3.5 - XM-24 - Eklipse Stock Stainless Steel Pivot Screw: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Pivot-Screw-Stainless-Steel-XM18-3-5-in-p/rhk0537-mf180.htm
XM-18 3" Handle Screws: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Scale-Screws-Fits-XM-18-3-Small-p/rhk0385-mc193.htm
XM-18 3.5" & XM-24 4" Handle Screws: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Scale-Screws-New-Style-Fits-3-5-XM-18-p/rhk0119-ma517.htm
Washers and Clip Screw Set for all models of XM Folders: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Folder-Parts-Kit-Clip-Screws-Washers-p/rhk0384-md086.htm
Eklipse Stainless Steel Handle Screw Sets: http://www.monkeyedge.com/Hinderer-Scale-Screws-New-Style-Fits-3-5-XM-18-p/rhk0539-mg049.htm
Pocket Clip Filler Tab Removal (Pic) (Remove BOTH screws. Had to leave one in for the pic, mine has been in/out )
Easiest method that works for me, Short end of an allen wrench that just fits (snug not tight) in the Filler Tab hole and then a gentle "pry" as to not dislodge the allen wrench and cause a possible scratch.
Knife Care and Maintenance
Minimal care is all that is required to insure the maximum potential from your knife. Cleaning your knife periodically along with lubrication with a light oil is all that is needed, especially after exposure to salt water or an acidic environment.
We use premium stainless cutlery steels in all of our knives. Stainless steel provides outstanding edge retention and corrosion resistance, but can rust if not cared for. It is possible for rust to form when your knife is used in or around salt water, exposed to moisture, or simply neglected. If exposed to salt water, thoroughly rinse the knife with fresh water, and then dry completely and apply a light coat of oil to all steel parts.
It is a good idea to regularly inspect the interior of the knife for dirt and grime. Clean inside the handle with a Q-Tip and water with a small amount of detergent or mild soap. Rinse everything thoroughly, dry the knife inside and out and oil all of the steel components. A couple drops of lubricant around the pivot will slick up the action nicely.
Sharpening
A sharp knife is a happy knife, and sharp knives makes cutting safer and easier. You should maintain your knifes edge regularly, the more it is used and the duller the edge becomes the more difficult it is to sharpen. We do not promote one particular method or sharpening system, but there are numerous available.
We do offer sharpening as a service, the cost is $15 and that includes return shipping in the USA, please drop us a line for the details.
Lock Bar as Explained by none other than "Rick" Himself.....
Hello Everyone!
I felt that I should write a post explaining the new feature on Striders framelocks, the Lockbar Stabilizer.......Of course as all of you have found out it is obviously a overtravel stop..in other words it prevents the accidental overtravel of the lockbar during closing of the knife...some of you have stated that sometimes repeated closings sometimes weakens the lockbar and thus the lockup is not as tight,well, I can visualise that,but actually the problem I wanted to correct concerning overtravel is the complete overspringing of the lockbar thereby rendering the knife useless...cant be done some say?...a little story of how I came up with it...I am firefighter as alot of you know...while working a accident scene I was using one of my Firetac's to cut the upholstry material around a seat post prior to using the jaws to cut the post...being that it was a good wreck, and adrenalin was running high,and the fact that we wear heavy gloove when working a MVA,I pushed the lockbar way to hard thereby springing it,and of course the blade could no longer lock,not a good thing to happen, at the wrong time! I knew then I needed to do something about it...The other issue I wanted to address was the lockbar springing towards the back of the knife when gripping it...this is what is not so obvious in a improvement...the reason is that sometimes the movement in the lockbar is not really noticable when using the knife under normal conditions...but when you use the knife really hard, and really grip it you WILL move the lockbar..this is because to make a framelock or linerlock for that matter you have to cut the long slot in the frame or liner to make the lockbar,it does not matter what size slot you cut you will still have material missing there...simple physics, suggests that you have a lever and it will move toward the back of the knife...guaranteed...now, what does this mean...1, whenever you have movement in a mechanism it is a chance for that mechanism to fail..2,extra movement in the lock to blade joint will wear the lockface quicker...3,when the blade is locked up on a framelock with the lockbar stabilizer there will be absolutly no movement in the lock....
So given all this is the improvement overkill? Extreme?.....when do we stop designing extreme use knives,as in ... is good enough the way it is?
Myself and Strider Knives design hard use knives gleaned from actual field experience,I didnt hear of this problem from anyone else in the field,I was in the field and experienced it!...Given the addition of the Lockbar Stabilizer Strider framelocks are even tougher and more hardcore than before..worth it? YOU BET!!
Rick Hinderer
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Again, I will Add to this "sticky" as Helpful Info presents itself and "We" can then reference the sticky to answer questions in the future.
Rubi
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