Your ideal "combat" knife

Steven Roos

Steven Roos

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Jun 29, 2002
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What do you think would be your ideal combat knife? I'm not talking about something just for fighting, or a utility blade, but something that would be versatile in both uses.

I am bouncing a few ideas around in my head trying to get an idea. So far, I figure it needs to be fairly thick and full tang, 5-7" inch blade (12" max overall). What about blade style? Tip style? Sheath material? Choils? Guards? False/double edges?

What is your ideal?
 
-No 'top' guard.
-Thumb grooves on the spine
-Deep Choil in the handle.
-Round, Comfortable handle.
-Dark Finish
-7" Blade.
-Balance just forward of the index finger.
-'Skull Crusher' pommel (I like the Becker's)
-Full Flat Grind w/ Convex Edge.
-Micarta or G-10 scales.
-Blade dips below knuckles (like a kitchen knife, but not too much).


I'm kind of picturing a Spyderco Perrin on Steroids, with a little bit of Becker BK7 and Rinaldi TTKK thrown in.


These are my 'off the top of my head' ideas.


-John
 
Something like the Enigma (is that what it is?) in your avatar.
-6and 3/4 to 7 in. blade
-CPM 3V or S30V for toughness
-1/4" thick for added strength and partial prybar attributes
-1 and 3/4 to 2" deep blade at the heel
-no choil, or tiny choil like the Enigma - blade runs right back to the handle (almost)
-slightly deeper/bigger (not longer) handle of canvas micarta or canvas G10 with flattened sides
-slight downward curve at the end of the handle to make chopping easier on the hands
-maybe a birdshead nob at the back of the handle to secure your grip on the handle

Maybe a beadblast or satin finish.

I won't need a sheath 'cause I'll never let go of it. :D
 
Steven, I believe what you are describing is the perfect knife.
This Marlowe fixed blade comes pretty darn close.

076561-big.jpg



The perfect "combat" knife probably looks more like this Dawson.

073082.jpg
 
Somewhere between the Marlowe's posted and a Simonich full-size drop point Raven.

7" blade, drop point with a slight swedge, flat ground (not full, leaving some full stock thickness at the spine), single guard like the Marlowe above, simple grip shape with basic contouring, to make it fit all peoples hands more evenly (combat knife, has to service a wide variety of people, cant fit one to each of them).
Full tang with micarta scales.
And full scales, none of this bullshit where the scales dont come fully to the edge of the tang like on the CRK/Harsey Green Beret knife - thats utter BS, and the mark of unrealistic thought in the handle design - there is no purpose to it and under actual hard use, that tang sticking out will focus all the feedback force onto a smaller area and it will eat up your hands like a real bastard, wear blisters faster, etc - full cover scales, definately.
 
I'm editing this because I thought a little bit more.
This past year(give or take a little) gave us three really good choices. The Reeve/Harsey GB.( I'll disagree about the scales, but that's just me.) The Simonich Raven and the Branton/Brend #2. They all answer the question slightly differently. My first choice has been the #2 but the others are very close.

Mike
 
put a BK-type skullcrusher on the big Marlowe, add a swedge, enlarge the choil to full-finger-sized, and make it an almost-full-flat-grind of .200" CPM 3V, and that would be pretty much perfect!
 
Lots of interesting input, thanks!

BTW, mumbleypeg, what don't you like about the scales? The canvas micarta?
 
Originally posted by Steven Roos
Lots of interesting input, thanks!

BTW, mumbleypeg, what don't you like about the scales? The canvas micarta?
Click to expand...

I like the scales. I was responding to Satin, who stated that because they leave a portion of the tang exposed, they were BS. I can see the argument for hidden tang or full cover. I just haven't found it necessary. I'm not sure what Harsey was thinking but I find that the handle is very stable and comfortable. I haven't used the GB like I have the #2. I will though. I have found it a solid knife. The #2 has canvas Micarta also, I'm pretty much sold on Micarta as my choice of scales.

Mike
 
Well, from what experience I have with the Green Beret, I like the scales, but I think I would stick with scales that cover the entire tang of the knife, just out of personal taste.
 
I had this one made to fit those exact specs. Blade is S30V with a 6.5" cutting edge. Top edge is ground thin enough to where it would only take 5 minutes to make sharp. Handle is nicely contoured black canvas micarta. Maker is R.J. Martin, so you know it's sharp. :)
 
Danbo: Why did you choose micarta over other materials?

Also, are removable scales important on a combat knife? Why or why not?
 
This knife was designed to be a do-all kinda knife, so I wanted something I didn't have to take care of much. Hence the S30V(thickness is .207, which is between 3/16 and 1/4"), and the micarta. I'm getting to where I will not buy a full, exposed tang knife with natural handle materials, as all natural materials shrink and leave the tang exposed.
 
averageguy -

That Marlowe fixed blade on the bottom is one sweet knife! That's getting real close to my ideal.

-Paul
 
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