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- Mar 10, 2008
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- 886
hey guys i recently watched a youtube friends video and he zero convexed his nmsfno and i just wanted to know will me busse still hold it edge i already had a huge reprofile and i just wanted to hear you guys advice
zero convex nmsfno
- Thread starter pimpnugget
- Start date
Busse knives hold a zero convex edge VERY well..... Just like ANY other steel, it comes down to how the edge is shaped/convexed. How thin or thick you convex it.
I assume you already know that INFI is one of the toughest steels in the knife industry. So, if compared to any other steel with a similar convex edge, INFI will STILL be tougher.
Discussing nuances of convexing would be too long a post. If you are familar with how to convex and the advantages of convexing, rest assured that INFI will still have the same advantages over other steels with similar edges, but that a properly profiled convex edge can have significant advantages in use over many other edges.
A good scandi edge can still be great for certain smaller task/bushcraft knives. But, most people will not appreciate the differences of scandi over convex. For me, convex is easier to maintain and works AWESOME!!!!
See Horn Dog's Full convexed (zero convexed) NMSFNO here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646819
My opinion is that putting a full convex edge on most blades will improve cutting ability in both detail light work AND heavy duty chopping if used on wood. Point being that INFI and even many other steels are more than sufficiently strong/tough to handle a "Properly" convexed edge for use on any type of wood (not including petrified
). - And actually, INFI will happily chop on many types of stone even if convexed.... and you will have a VERY hard time breaking the blades - regardless of edge. But, don't expect your edges to hold up as well against stone.
If you want to chop concrete or similarly masonry type work, I would leave the edge more obtuse.
For the record, Busse CG blade are pretty rough under those coatings and unless you have a pro level shop, you will have to put a LOT of work into making a CG into a decent looking full convexed LE.
But, putting a VERY GOOD "user" convex profiled edge on a CG isn't so hard. :thumbup:
Hope that helps.
.
I assume you already know that INFI is one of the toughest steels in the knife industry. So, if compared to any other steel with a similar convex edge, INFI will STILL be tougher.
Discussing nuances of convexing would be too long a post. If you are familar with how to convex and the advantages of convexing, rest assured that INFI will still have the same advantages over other steels with similar edges, but that a properly profiled convex edge can have significant advantages in use over many other edges.
A good scandi edge can still be great for certain smaller task/bushcraft knives. But, most people will not appreciate the differences of scandi over convex. For me, convex is easier to maintain and works AWESOME!!!!
See Horn Dog's Full convexed (zero convexed) NMSFNO here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646819
My opinion is that putting a full convex edge on most blades will improve cutting ability in both detail light work AND heavy duty chopping if used on wood. Point being that INFI and even many other steels are more than sufficiently strong/tough to handle a "Properly" convexed edge for use on any type of wood (not including petrified
). - And actually, INFI will happily chop on many types of stone even if convexed.... and you will have a VERY hard time breaking the blades - regardless of edge. But, don't expect your edges to hold up as well against stone. If you want to chop concrete or similarly masonry type work, I would leave the edge more obtuse.
For the record, Busse CG blade are pretty rough under those coatings and unless you have a pro level shop, you will have to put a LOT of work into making a CG into a decent looking full convexed LE.
But, putting a VERY GOOD "user" convex profiled edge on a CG isn't so hard. :thumbup:
Hope that helps.
.
Yeah... I missed the part where you mentioned you already changed the edge profile on yours.
If you have already done this, you would just be changing the shape.
Personally, I would recommend sticking with the edge style you are accustomed to... Or make plans to change your sharpening styles.
Beveled angled edges can be very sufficient for cutting if well profiled.
But, personally, I do favor a good convex edge for most any task.
At worst, I believe a well convexed edge is at LEAST as good as any beveled edge. At best, I believe a well convexed edge has some advantages.
What are you currently using to sharpen your knives?
Do you have a Sharpmaker jig or similar jig set-up?
Do you sharpen with stones?
Etc?
Sharpening a bevel edge on stone vs. sharpening a convex on leather strop, mousepad, belt sander, etc. are all different techniques.
I prefer convex for performance AND I personally find it easier to maintain. I have a belt sander which helps a LOT for initial reprofiling. But, I also prefer leather hone strop in the field and at home over stones. I grew up using stones and switched. I don't see much use for stones for me anymore.
But, if you are not familiar with stropping or other convex sharpening techniques, there is a learning curve.
I would also view it as a hassle to try to sharpen "some" knives with stone and others in convex.
If you have a convex NMSFNO chopper in the field, I would want my smaller companion knives to have a similar convex edge.
Honestly, I never really find myself carrying my strop kit into the field. I tend to bring it in the car if going camping, but it stays in the car and I rarely use it. I tend to just wait till I get home. But, everyone has their own level of sharpening needs. So, for "some" people, having comparable edge types for companion knives might be worth considering.
** Be carefull, once you have sufficiently USED a well profiled and convexed edge, you will likely be wanting to reprofile ALL of your knives - especially your users.
:thumbup:.
Bigfattyt
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2007
- Messages
- 19,195
** Be carefull, once you have sufficiently USED a well profiled and convexed edge, you will likely be wanting to reprofile ALL of your knives - especially your users.
.
I agree. There was a learning curve. But, I never freehanded with stones. I used only a clamp down, set angle system. Which is not too handy for maintenance.
I had one full convex chopper from the factory. At the time I did not know how super easy they are to maintain. I wish I had found this forum earlier. Now all my users are convex. I do them by hand on sandpaper, mouse pad, and then maintain them on a loaded strop. Nothing easier for maintenance.
Hair popping sharp every day. If I use them much during the day, a few quick passes per side = back to hair popping sharp in seconds.
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2008
- Messages
- 1,047
I put a full convex on an SASH1 by hand and it does take forever! The INFI on certain knives seems to vary in dimpling. When I stripped the ASH it had over half the blade covered in dimples like these.
.
I didnt take any photos of the blade before I set out sanding the blade.
To get to the finished product by hand took about 15 really solid hours of sanding.
This shot is about 10 hours in.....
Final product..........
It cuts much, much better with a thin convex edge. As the guys before said though, dont go trying out the cinder block tests on a thin edge. That should be common sense however. I use that knife in the kitchen because it is so thin and sharp!
My CGFBM I am in the process of thinning out and doing some other things to it, and it is crazy sharp. I cant belive how well the edge holds up to abuse too! I will go out and chop for a couple of hours, and still be able to cleanly slice paper without catching......
I didnt take any photos of the blade before I set out sanding the blade.
To get to the finished product by hand took about 15 really solid hours of sanding.
This shot is about 10 hours in.....
Final product..........
It cuts much, much better with a thin convex edge. As the guys before said though, dont go trying out the cinder block tests on a thin edge. That should be common sense however. I use that knife in the kitchen because it is so thin and sharp!
My CGFBM I am in the process of thinning out and doing some other things to it, and it is crazy sharp. I cant belive how well the edge holds up to abuse too! I will go out and chop for a couple of hours, and still be able to cleanly slice paper without catching......
