- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
- Messages
- 1,302
Not to beat a dead horse but maybe as a tool for self diagnosis...
Problems should fall into one of three catagories and maybe if this doesn't help you directly, someone else may get some use out of it.
1) Lockbar pressure against the tang. The more "bent in" the lockbar is, the greater the pressure exerted against the tang and the inherent increase in friction against the tang while opening. In contrast though, the more pressure the lockbar exerts the more it is able to hold the detent ball in the tang hole. Strong lockbar pressure can also effect blade centering while closed, shifting the tip away from the lock side. Lockbar pressure is easily user adjustable if you are comforable with disassembling your knife. Work in minute adjustments by bending the lockbar out or in dependant upon the desire of a stronger or weaker detent.
2) Detent. The deeper the detent ball sits in the hole the stronger the detent. A stronger detent allows for a build up of kinetic energy to be stored between the tang and the ball holding the blade closed until a breaking point is reached. The more kinetic energy that can be stored before this breaking point, the greater the inertia upon release. Technique can overcome a weak detent by storing the kinetic energy in your finger but IMHO that should not be a designed characteristic of a flipper. A deeper hole or larger ball is obviously not something user adjustable but step one can usually make a big difference in tweaking.
3) Pivot. Should be designed to reduce the friction which impedes the inertia of an opening knife. Pivot bearing systems such as IKBS or Roller Thrust reduce the amount of friction but increase the complexity of a knives moving parts. IMHO a nylon washer (or even PB) done right will be just as good or close enough to make no discernable difference. The pivot smoothness can be easily demonstrated by disengaging the lockbar, removing contact with the tang using your thumb and observing how freely the blade swings. Adjust your pivot screw to be as tight as possible while still allowing the blade to move with ease. Generally though, tightening the pivot restrains this free movement but centers the blade. Loosening the pivot to where the blade moves freely allows the pressure from the lockbar (while closed) to push against the blade shifting the blade off center. Blade centering can be achieved using another technique mentioned in thorough write-ups on this forum.
Good luck.
Problems should fall into one of three catagories and maybe if this doesn't help you directly, someone else may get some use out of it.
1) Lockbar pressure against the tang. The more "bent in" the lockbar is, the greater the pressure exerted against the tang and the inherent increase in friction against the tang while opening. In contrast though, the more pressure the lockbar exerts the more it is able to hold the detent ball in the tang hole. Strong lockbar pressure can also effect blade centering while closed, shifting the tip away from the lock side. Lockbar pressure is easily user adjustable if you are comforable with disassembling your knife. Work in minute adjustments by bending the lockbar out or in dependant upon the desire of a stronger or weaker detent.
2) Detent. The deeper the detent ball sits in the hole the stronger the detent. A stronger detent allows for a build up of kinetic energy to be stored between the tang and the ball holding the blade closed until a breaking point is reached. The more kinetic energy that can be stored before this breaking point, the greater the inertia upon release. Technique can overcome a weak detent by storing the kinetic energy in your finger but IMHO that should not be a designed characteristic of a flipper. A deeper hole or larger ball is obviously not something user adjustable but step one can usually make a big difference in tweaking.
3) Pivot. Should be designed to reduce the friction which impedes the inertia of an opening knife. Pivot bearing systems such as IKBS or Roller Thrust reduce the amount of friction but increase the complexity of a knives moving parts. IMHO a nylon washer (or even PB) done right will be just as good or close enough to make no discernable difference. The pivot smoothness can be easily demonstrated by disengaging the lockbar, removing contact with the tang using your thumb and observing how freely the blade swings. Adjust your pivot screw to be as tight as possible while still allowing the blade to move with ease. Generally though, tightening the pivot restrains this free movement but centers the blade. Loosening the pivot to where the blade moves freely allows the pressure from the lockbar (while closed) to push against the blade shifting the blade off center. Blade centering can be achieved using another technique mentioned in thorough write-ups on this forum.
Good luck.
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