RyanW
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Pretty sure we can make that Happen, Great work on this my friend!
Giveaway Knife: Design thread
- Thread starter Lorien
- Start date
Pretty sure we can make that Happen, Great work on this my friend!
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I'll be posting a representation of the knife and sheath package, a concept drawing if you will, some time next week. Just in case you're curious about where all your input was going...
RyanW
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It is about Freaking time... You are killing me Buddy!
BTW, The "Edge Out Project" knife that I sent your way to tour the Seattle Show... Is not Sharpened! Slight oversight, at least that will prevent your from taking it on the trails!
BTW, The "Edge Out Project" knife that I sent your way to tour the Seattle Show... Is not Sharpened!
Slight oversight, at least that will prevent your from taking it on the trails!
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2005
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It is about Freaking time... You are killing me Buddy!
BTW, The "Edge Out Project" knife that I sent your way to tour the Seattle Show... Is not Sharpened!
I'll have access to some of the best knife makers in N. America + lots of knife making equipment...could put an edge on it before the show if you like...
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Okay, I quit reading when I saw something about stainless and jumped forward to express my utter awe at the fact that every knife of Ryan's that I drool over has an AMAZING Hamon and all could think of is how the heck do you put a hamon on a stainless blade? Anyone else thinking this?
RyanW
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RichP.B. I think we threw the Stainless idea aside... Lorien likes to push the Hamon as well. This will be in 1095... Possibly W2 (Maybe both if I practice that Randall Grind in 1095) If I can get an order in, in the next few days Thanks everyone for the input. Should be a very fun build, and hope it makes someone very happy!!
Thanks everyone for the input. Should be a very fun build, and hope it makes someone very happy!!What will/do you use a small fixed blade knife for, and would/do you prefer to carry it around your neck, in your pocket, or on your belt
I use a knife as a tool for work, EDC, and self defense. Carry would be in my pocket or on my belt.
What is a bigger priority for you; overbuilt burliness, or feather-light cutting performance?
And, how to get there; full tang or hidden tang?
I love an overbuilt knife. (Especially in folding knives, as they are already a broken fixed blade and all the strength is in the pivot, frame and frame attachments. A good knife should have both ideally. It should be strong and rigid; able to go through all the use I put it through, and abuse that it may be put through. However - One thing I absolutely hate in a knife is a needle thin tip and a slim blade. I want a knife I can pry things open with (gently and carefully) If need be.
there's a voice in my head telling me 'full tang'...am I going crazy or what?
ok, so dimensions;
what is your preference for blade length? -- 3-4 inches
for overall length? 5-6 inches
target weight? as heavy as you can make it without it feeling awkwardly bulky in your hand preferably, but that is terrible in a necker.
I like the sketch and it looks like a great design. I think it would be way more comfortable in the hand if it had another half inch to an inch on the handle if the sheath has enough resistance to hold the weight. I prefer kydex over leather personally because it doesn't hold moisture or oil and does a better job protecting the knife because it is more ridged. However if it is kydex - it should definitely have a retention strap of some kind, like the leather one. It is a beautiful knife the way it is, and changing it would be a tragedy. Being a neck knife it will be bounced around a lot. It would be terrible if the knife was to come loose and get damaged on the ground. That is the only design problem that I see, mostly with the sheath and being a necker. Would be awesome to make one with a guard and a different grind (The only reason that I say that is because the guard wouldn't look right with the existing grind) and add a thinner "C" shaped guard like on the old Olsen model 704, but without the remainder of the guard continuing into the handle. With a narrow, small, curved, "C' shaped finger guard. Would make the perfect necker IMHO. Anyways, just my ideas. It is an absolute beaut'.
I use a knife as a tool for work, EDC, and self defense. Carry would be in my pocket or on my belt.
What is a bigger priority for you; overbuilt burliness, or feather-light cutting performance?
And, how to get there; full tang or hidden tang?
I love an overbuilt knife. (Especially in folding knives, as they are already a broken fixed blade and all the strength is in the pivot, frame and frame attachments. A good knife should have both ideally. It should be strong and rigid; able to go through all the use I put it through, and abuse that it may be put through. However - One thing I absolutely hate in a knife is a needle thin tip and a slim blade. I want a knife I can pry things open with (gently and carefully) If need be.
there's a voice in my head telling me 'full tang'...am I going crazy or what?
ok, so dimensions;
what is your preference for blade length? -- 3-4 inches
for overall length? 5-6 inches
target weight? as heavy as you can make it without it feeling awkwardly bulky in your hand preferably, but that is terrible in a necker.
I like the sketch and it looks like a great design. I think it would be way more comfortable in the hand if it had another half inch to an inch on the handle if the sheath has enough resistance to hold the weight. I prefer kydex over leather personally because it doesn't hold moisture or oil and does a better job protecting the knife because it is more ridged. However if it is kydex - it should definitely have a retention strap of some kind, like the leather one. It is a beautiful knife the way it is, and changing it would be a tragedy. Being a neck knife it will be bounced around a lot. It would be terrible if the knife was to come loose and get damaged on the ground. That is the only design problem that I see, mostly with the sheath and being a necker. Would be awesome to make one with a guard and a different grind (The only reason that I say that is because the guard wouldn't look right with the existing grind) and add a thinner "C" shaped guard like on the old Olsen model 704, but without the remainder of the guard continuing into the handle. With a narrow, small, curved, "C' shaped finger guard. Would make the perfect necker IMHO. Anyways, just my ideas. It is an absolute beaut'.
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