Cold bluing my Mini-Jungle

Well P1445 last night I blaitantly plagerized your idea. I repolished my minijungle with Scotchbrite pads, degreased it with alcohol, dried it and applied Birchwood Casey's "Super Blue" liquid with cotton balls. I let the solution sit for 30 seconds, rinsed t in water, dried it and polished it using 0000 steel wool. It came out beautiful!! The bluing is very dark and even. "Super Blue" is a concentrated formula designed for steel with a high chromium or nickel content. I've used the paste before and this stuff is MUCH better. I've been kicking around the idea of bluing my Ang Kohla for a while now. Thanks for the inspiration and the boot in the pants!

Mike
 
I'm glad it worked for you. Too bad you didn't have access to a glass bead machine, it would have produced a very uniform matte finish. You may want to use more than one "coat" of bluing if the finish isn't dark enough. Cold bluing will harden over a period of days, so be careful. Also be careful of what polishes you use, as Flitz polish will remove cold blue.

One of the good things about cold bluing is that it will be easy to touch up in the future.

Let's see some pictures.

p1445
 
oooo steel wool will not revmove Oxpho Blue.It will take off rust.The heat really helps to harden it,and prevent mottling.Any problems with grip?

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I did the Ang Kohla last night using a HOT water rinse and it came out even better than the Mini. No problems with the handle. It looks fantastic! I just took a bunch of pictures of my custom knives. I'll have to get a couple of the blued MJ and AK. When I get them I'll drop you a line Blackdog.

Mike
 
Okay: I've caught the fever! Last night, I polished my beat-up old WWII personal khukuri using the rough polishing wheel. This produced white a nice matte finish. Today, I'm off to find some cold blue to complete the project. Can't wait to see how it comes out.

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Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
As you know,the polish that you start with will show through blue,brown,or anodizing.
Even Parkerixing,or black oxide will show the blade finish.

[This message has been edited by ghostsix (edited 11 November 1999).]
 
Well, the WWII (cold blued) is curing in the basement - coated with some oil as suggested in the instructions. Overall, I think I am very pleased. I'll have to wait until morning to check the final results. I may decide to do some more coating tomorrow.

Question: Once steel has been "blued" does the corrosive process no longer work on successive coats, or can one cold blue over and over again with better and better results?



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Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
I suppose that there is a point of diminishing returns,but the more seperate coats,the deeper the bluing.The oil,WD-40,whatever justs stops the rust process.Blueing is a controled rusting process.The old rust blue was done overnight in a high humidity cabinet.That is the blue that you see on pre war weapons.It takes several days of carding off the rust and reapplying the blue solution.

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Ghost: I'm now doing the process over again - and will all weekend. I want that baby to shine. Now, how do I get rid of the brass - Can I blue that somehow (it doesn't seem to stick).



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Craig Gottlieb
Gurkha House
Blade Forums Sponsor
 
No,but you can anodize it.Brownell`s again.They are on line now,but the catalog is neat.Give your wife your checkbook while reading.
 
I have aiways had good luck browning the blade. Unless the steel is too hard you can get a rich deep brown color. With a light oil appied it looks great. Use Brownell's Plum Brown or simular. You have to heat the blade enuff to make it sizzal, but if you are worried about the glue getting to hot, wrap a damp rag around the base to help absorb the heat.
 
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