CPM M4 or CPM S35VN

Anyone have an opinion on Nitro-V then? NJ steel baron added vanadium to Aeb-L, so what in theory should that do to the carbide size or grain structure?

Any charts of grain structure/ carbide size from one end of the spectrum to the next?
 
So where would do you draw the line then? I'm not trying to send him an s110v blade, or even s90v.


I ask the customer how they will use the knife and whether they prioritize a fine edge or wear resistance. I don't go higher alloy than S35VN in most cases. I'm experimenting with z-wear for kitchen knives and unless they are looking for the hitachi white/Aeb-l /52100/ W2 type edge, it's a good compromise between fine edge and wear resistance. I explain what to expect with each type of steel and let the customer decide. I make more W2 knives than any other steel for kitchen knives.
 
I have made knives out of all of the highly wear resistant steels. All had optimum heat treatments. The more knives I make, the less I like pm steels. PM steels do hold an edge longer but loose their initial sharpness very quickly. I also find that they are chippy at high hardness. Chippy edges require more time and material to re-sharpen.

The pm steels that I like are; pd1, vandis 4 extra, m-4, and 40cp.

AEB-L, 52100, A2, and M2 are my favorites right now.

There are two types of cutting, push cutting and saw cutting. Steels with fine carbides excel at push cutting (like aeb-l), steels with larger carbides do better at saw cutting.

The best cutting kitchen knives are ground very thin and have very fine sharpening angles. Steels with the finest grain and smallest carbides support these finer edges.

Hoss

Have you ever tried 80crv2 in a kitchen knife? I've made a couple and it seems to hold up pretty well. However, I don't have much to compare it to.
 
I haven't used it yet. It is closely related to several other cutlery steels. Most carbon and alloy steels make good knives. For most of these, a good heat treat is more important than the grade.

Hoss
 
I would go with 1.2519/O7. composition is similar to Aogami 2. Heat treat is similar to O-1. best source I have found is https://www.schmiedeglut.de/tungsten-steel-knifesteel_2. when asked, Roman Landes said:
DIN 1.2519 runs among the best steels you can get for fine cutlery. Especially for fine cutting tools e.g. woodworking, high performance kitchen knives, etc. where a true razor sharpness and very high edge stability is needed. The little addon tungsten (Wolfram) makes all the difference, higher hardness, higher wear resistance. Its just great for the stock removal approach, since forging and HT after forging, needs an experienced hand and know how. Working hardness should be 63-65HRC assuming the right HT. Of coure there are some obliations. The edge will not take impact loads, so to use it as cleaver or chopper it is not well siuted. http://www.metalravne.com/selector/steels/osikro4.html Make absolutely sure you have fine angles and very slim grinds for the kitchen knife types since this rules performance. http://www.hypefreeblades.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=616&p=5147&hilit=1.2519#p5147
 
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