CTS-XHP/Duratech 20CV?

That's very strange.
I have 2 XM-24's both in CTS-XHP.
I have no rust issues what so ever,use them for peeling apples etc.
I wipe them down or rinse them when sticky,that's it.
 
Maybe mine had a bad heat treat:eek:.

Edit:
I want to try do a little experiment where I leave a few droplets of water on the blade itself to see how severe the rust issue is.
 
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I just heated up my new XM-18 "hot" with my blow dryer on "high" and put Miltec-1 in the pivot and wiped the blade down with it. Reheated it a few times which makes it even thinner and it really spreads out. Got it all wiped down to dry.

I'll reheat and dry with tissue and q-tips today and repeat the procedure on Mon. & Tues. I'll bet a $100 bill this sucker won't rust. :) :thumbup:
 
I just heated up my new XM-18 "hot" with my blow dryer on "high" and put Miltec-1 in the pivot and wiped the blade down with it. Reheated it a few times which makes it even thinner and it really spreads out. Got it all wiped down to dry.

I'll reheat and dry with tissue and q-tips today and repeat the procedure on Mon. & Tues. I'll bet a $100 bill this sucker won't rust. :) :thumbup:
Ah, but the thing that will always get me is why you have to do this with a stainless steel, and why you couldn't have had to do that with a nice solid chunk of CPM-M4 instead:thumbup:.
 
That's very strange.
I have 2 XM-24's both in CTS-XHP.
I have no rust issues what so ever,use them for peeling apples etc.
I wipe them down or rinse them when sticky,that's it.

Same here. I've used every XM in every steel Rick has used. In the pouring rain. In the heat, drenched in sweat. Never had a rust problem with any of them. I can't see how cutting celery or apples would cause that. Lol. Weird.
 
Here are the results of my test:
PC120001.jpg

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I simply turned on the faucet, wet my fingers, and put 4 wet dabs on the blade. I'm not sure if my camera picked it up, but each dab has tiny red/brown spots of rust. I think the interesting part is how the rust starts out as pinpoint spots rather than evenly over the wet area like how the CPM-M4 in my Gayle Bradley would start out.

I don't suppose the warranty covers rust issues:confused:?
 
Hey Noctis. If you believe there is a problem with your XM-18 you should probably just contact Rick or Rob directly.
 
Maybe Rick or rob will chime in on this! Im very interested if this is isolated To just a few knives or if it's normal for 20cv ? Noctis , my pivot looked exactly like yours after just washing in the sink as well so I feel your frustration !!!
 
Guys....slow down here....these types of threads historically turn into a bunch of horse shit and this one is on the cusp of turning into that..let me explain a few things...basically duratech 20cp is a high vanadium stainless steel..note I said stainless...will it rust...yes...CTS-XHP is a lower vanadium type of stainless...will it rust...yes...as EVERYONE here knows...because a steel has high cromium in it we all know that does NOT mean it is impervious to rust..

basic differences in the steel....duratech 20cp is a high vanadium...it takes a high hardness/tough...but more difficult to sharpen in the field...CTS-XHP...high hardness/tough...easier to sharpen in the fied do to lower vanaduim....XHP is also essentially powder D2 with cromium added to take it above the carbon steel thresh hold...so essentially stainless D-2....

CTS-XHP is NOT essentially 440c....that material is called CTS-40cp...it is also made by Carpenter steel...go to their website and look it up...

As for the comment about me being a firefighter with this symble:rolleyes:
I am a fulltime knifemaker and I have been making and designing knives for over 25 years...with literally thousands of knives made...I think my qualifications trump yours....

As for the heat treat causing something...haha I have my blades heat treated in a big batch by a professial heat treat company..they test these blades and then I test them when they come back to my shop...

Guys, what is being said here is so subjective its not even funny! Think about it...do we know absolutly for a fact what was put on this blade? ok, it was stated water was put on the blade and left there...what was the acidic content of the water? see what I'm getting at?...thats why these types of threads are horse shit...lets pile on and say anything we want to say and then people start saying "oh he said that so that means this"..without any absolute proof..and I mean scientific documented proof....listen if a blade is broke and the grain structure of that blade looks terrible...ok thats proof of bad steel/heat treat....pivot breaks..ok proof of weak pivot..but rust on a blade when we dont have documented proof of what was put on the blade? come on...guys, with cases like this, and this goes for ANY makers knives...think about the issue before jumping to conclusions...

Most of my sales of the XM-18 go to LE and Military, guys and gals who use the hell out of them!...and most of you all know the reputation of the XM-18....that reputation didnt come from substandard quality in materials or workmanship!

Thanks for listening!

Rick Hinderer

BTW, heres a tip that I have heard before....after washing your knife apply a thin coat of oil...especially in the pivot area as water can become trapped in there.
 
Noctis3880,Just use some steelwool on those little rust spots,then apply a light coating of oil.ANY steel will rust,unless it's H-1.
 
I just thought it was a little strange when at 11:57am a post was made that a "test" was going to be performed and by 6:57pm the blade already has rust spots. It's just to weird to me....

I've used my knives in water, mud, in the rain, in 105 degree temps where sweat from my hands get all over the blade, handle and hardware. I don't always have the time to run to a sink and wash my knife with soap and water. My blade sometimes doesn't get cleaned/rinsed until the end of the day and I've never seen rust spots as soon as this "test" showed them.

I just don't see how cutting celery and apples then rinsing a blade in some water could cause that much rust so fast......
 
If it was fresh tap water, how acidic can it actually be?

What is the minimum pH at which CTS-XHP will rust?

Run some tests using various ph balanced waters and get back to us. I've got my XM-18 lubed and alread shave a BIG slice out a 2x4 - push cut a big old slab off effortlessy. :D
 
i just thought it was a little strange when at 11:57am a post was made that a "test" was going to be performed and by 6:57pm the blade already has rust spots. It's just to weird to me....

I've used my knives in water, mud, in the rain, in 105 degree temps where sweat from my hands get all over the blade, handle and hardware. I don't always have the time to run to a sink and wash my knife with soap and water. My blade sometimes doesn't get cleaned/rinsed until the end of the day and i've never seen rust spots as soon as this "test" showed them.

I just don't see how cutting celery and apples then rinsing a blade in some water could cause that much rust so fast......

amen!
 
Nothing harsh I assure you. Mostly I was trimming some celery, onions, cut some cardboard, and cut up an apple. In all cases I washed the blade with soap and water and wiped it dry. My Lionsteel SR-1 also has a spot of rust or two, but not as much as the XM-18.

As for the Miltec-1, is that food safe and how long does the coating last with light to medium use?

More than just tap water could be the culprit acid wise...
 
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