How I make a pouch sheath... (tutorial).

Talfuchre said:
No - what I mean is this. You see on my dangler how I use a strap cutter. Yours is asymmetrical and just sort of tapers off to one side. Why?

Oh - and the drop leg - I ripped off from JRE. Now the removable D-Ring I was the first to discover - but everything else is 'borrowed'. ;)

TF
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Okay gotcha. I made the belt loop that way initially to mimic the shape of the sheath at the bottom. Mainly just to be different. Then I used that same shape for the drop loop. I just liked it and kept doing it.
 
I like it too. I single in on an object and my eyes don't back out to see the bigger picture.

I still think hiding it is a shame - let that cool idea shine and turn it around!

Anyway - I love your work and am so happy this turned out to be a collaboration. The way you do your work shows less tools than I use and would be a better way to start for the beginner. Great job!

TF
 
Talfuchre said:
I like it too. I single in on an object and my eyes don't back out to see the bigger picture.

I still think hiding it is a shame - let that cool idea shine and turn it around!

Anyway - I love your work and am so happy this turned out to be a collaboration. The way you do your work shows less tools than I use and would be a better way to start for the beginner. Great job!

TF
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That's a great idea, I'll do it on the next one. I'll probably reverse the direction of the curve so it mimics the front now. Thanks again for letting me contribute what little I could. You are a top notch sheath maker and I only aspire to be. Hopefully this thread will help somebody else get started into the fun. :)
 
Wow! Thorough instructions and lots of pictures. One of my favorite bookmarks. Thanks for all that work!
 
Second attempt at a sheath. My first sheath came out fine for a working sheath, but I wanted to apply what I learned from my mistakes and try a crossdraw belt loop. Of course I made mistakes, but they are perhaps less glaring this time.

I think I did not let the sheath dry completely (I let it sit for two days) after wet forming before I started working on finishing the welt edge. The gum trag kept sprouting a crust which would return after I rewetted and reburnished it. I hoped that the beeswax/neatsfoot oil finish would clear it up but it looks like it encapsulated it for good.

Thank you Talfuchre for your guide and advice! I have no idea why this tutorial isn't a sticky it is one of the clearest and most helpful ones I have seen...

sheath2_01.jpg


sheath2_02.jpg


sheath2_02.jpg
 
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It is 3 strand 0.8-0.9mm nylon I got from a chinese seller on ebay. It took me some searching to determine what red nylon thread to get as there are so many different size designations for thread. I can't comment on the quality as I don't really have anything to compare it to and it's the only thread I've used. It seems okay...I have broken it and it can unravel when getting waxed, but maybe that is typical.
 
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Not typical - but stitching in a sheath - with proper gluing - is damned near there for looks. If your stitch groove is the right depth - it won't get wear.

I have to tell you - I have looked at your sheath multiple times - and I don't see any glaring mistakes. We are always our own worst critic. Remember, if the stitching is PERFECT - it looks machine sewn - and I think looses its charm.

The only things I would have done differently are - not leave the belt loop pointed - it may start to pull there.

Also - be wary of straight stitches at wear points - they can 'zipper' on you and tear. You are essentially making a straight line of holes for the belt to tear the belt loop on. However - Now that you know how to make an awesome sheath - you can just make another if it tears out.

It looks like you used shoulder leather and have the natural creases running perpendicular to the blade. If you like the look - great - just be aware of these lines in the future - and use them to your advantage - place them how you want them.

I, personally, like those lines in rustic sheaths. A little 400 grit sand paper after the dye dries and you can 'age' your sheath - then seal it. It takes those shoulder creases and enhances them a bit - giving your sheath a 20 year old look.

These are just LITTLE things though - and I hope you don't take them negatively.

I think the danged thing looks awesome - and wish my second - or hell 20th sheath looked as good.

TF
 
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I found this thread today after linking it to a friend. I figured I would bump it.

Heber, Rick, and anyone else. Feel free to add your methods here if you wish.

TF
 
Tal,

Thanks for bumping this, and for doing all this work in the first place … I rarely see a sheath that doesn't have some design aspect I would do differently (mostly aesthetics), with the exception of two styles - one is the sheath you made for my Bushfinger (with the drop loop), and the other is one that Jared made for one of his knives, that turns out to be a great fit for my Bushboot. I really like the squared off bottom on Jared's sheaths, and yours are so "clean", to the point where the stitching becomes a design feature … I really like both of these styles …

But this thread has taught me … well, EVERYTHING I now know about sheath making, and I'm thinking I might try my hand at some point … I have a few design ideas already … now to put the time in to be able to actually execute … I strongly suspect this is much harder than you make it look … maybe in the Spring when I get that workshop "right" …

Thank you again - great tutorial, very well presented.

~ Edge
 
Very glad you bumped this. I see people refer to it, but couldn't find it.

I wanted to join your apprentice program, but the holidays pretty well crippled me financially. :eek:

I do have quite a few leather working tools, but no decent veg tanned at the moment. :(

At least this way I can play along when I get some leather.
 
Bumping for a great tutorial.

Tal, are you still in Katy? Do you do hands on demos for local guys?
 
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