I made... something.

Good idea. I was gonna suggest a Savage 17HMR and a good stand and back stop. Probably take too long, kind of noisy, and a lot of room for error.

The rotary leather punch is better.
 
philllll said:
The reason it takes me so long to finish each one is I have one friend with the forge, and another with all the finishing equipment. Takes a couple trips back and forth to finish one up. Also, the hardening is done in the forge but then I temper it in my kitchen oven. Stinks up the house real good!
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Ah, so you're situation is similar. Except you own a car. And I doubt your circumstance is one of coordinating with a partner on the project, as well as a paramedic friend and his father who have a forge as well as other equipment, and with another friend who always has something going wrong who has grinders and says he'll get a forge.
 
philllll said:
Hey bb,

I marked the hole locations with a special little wheel tool, punched each one out individually with a sewing needle chucked in a drill press, and then stitched it all by hand.
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Philllll, you are not only a creative soul, but clearly persistent! What a combination you are. I never thought of using a drill press...I've access to one of those every summer. :cool:
 
J W Bensinger said:
Philll-get a rotary leather punch and a 1/16" or 3/32" cutter-it's well worth it. I've been marking with the wheel and punching all the holes that way for about ten years-much easier to get a harness needle through that than a needlehole.
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Thanks, JW. Now we'll all be looking for used leather punches and 1/16th or 3/32nd cutters! The hunt is on...:)

Philllll gets his first though. :thumbup:
 
Hit your local livery stable or feed store. Places that sell horse stuff. They always got that sort of stuff.

I got a couple that we use for harness and such. They have several different size punches all on the same wheel, just pick one and punch away.

Really build up your grip while your doing it. Iffen you got the rhematise, not so fun, I find biting down on a wood dowel helps some, that an a dram of medicinal scotch from time to time. Not great for the teeth, what few are left, but great for the soul.
 
Before I got the use of an industrial leather stitcher, I was stitching by hand. Still do on occasion. After smoothing my edges, I mark my stitch line with a Saddle Groover, mark the holes with a Over stitching wheel, then punch the holes using my drill press and a drill bit. Got a stitching punch recently that works really well too. The drill press is faster though. . . For smoothing edges, a belt sander (1x30, 1x42 etc) works really well.
 
Bawanna said:
Good idea. I was gonna suggest a Savage 17HMR and a good stand and back stop. Probably take too long, kind of noisy, and a lot of room for error.

The rotary leather punch is better.
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You laugh...when I moved our circular steel staircase from the kitchen to the addition years ago I needed new bolt holes in the baseplate, and had no electricity...5.56, baby...(outside, with a safe backstop...)
 
Kamidog, let's not get persnickety, now, otherwise the good Doctor will have to prescribe some meds for you.....ah. Not to worry. I'm already on it....
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So long kamidog, been fun knowing ya. I'm curious to see what you end up being when the good doctor, who I love and respect very much I might add, gets done with ya.
Give me a sign so I know it's you.
 
blackbrit said:
Philllll, you are not only a creative soul, but clearly persistent! What a combination you are. I never thought of using a drill press...I've access to one of those every summer. :cool:
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blackbrit,

When I make sheathes I punch the holes with a drill press and a high speed drill bit. Just the right size to accept two harness needles, making a saddle stitch.

Put a knot free 1 X 4 or something underneath your leather. That will give a neater exit hole.

A chrome tanned leather sheath wants to eat your knife. Use oak tanned leather for sure.
 
Raymond1000 said:
blackbrit,

When I make sheathes I punch the holes with a drill press and a high speed drill bit. Just the right size to accept two harness needles, making a saddle stitch.

Put a knot free 1 X 4 or something underneath your leather. That will give a neater exit hole.

A chrome tanned leather sheath wants to eat your knife. Use oak tanned leather for sure.
Click to expand...

Darn it! I don't know what kind I've got.:confused:

I've got good access to leather "scraps" though (plenty big enough for most sheaths). My place sells them by the pound. :D

And thanks for the reminder about the 1x4. Dad's gone from us now, but that IS what he taught me. And it's his drill press. It probably has good scrap lumber stored under it still. I can see that box of handy lumber in my mind's eye. :thumbup:
 
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