How To I've got an axe on a plastic type handle, which is coming loose?
- Thread starter TayJee
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The haft has slipped loose from the epoxy. Your options are re-hanging on this haft with epoxy or putting it on a wood haft.
To re-use this handle drill or chip out the epoxy at the top. Once you get a hole started it will chip away fairly easily. Then you can drive the haft out with a home made wooden punch (just whittle a branch). Scrape the haft clean and knock any loose material out of the head.
Set the handle in a vice or somehow stabilize it in the vertical position. Set the head on it and align it. Tightly tape around the base of the head so the epoxy won't leak out. Then fill up the eye with epoxy. It will run down into all the voids. If you buy those twin cylinder epoxy kits at the hardware store, the ones that look like a pair of large hypodermic needles, then you'll need 2 for a typical hang. 1 won't quite get it.
I've only done a couple, an axe and a maul. But both are holding up fine 5 years later.
To re-use this handle drill or chip out the epoxy at the top. Once you get a hole started it will chip away fairly easily. Then you can drive the haft out with a home made wooden punch (just whittle a branch). Scrape the haft clean and knock any loose material out of the head.
Set the handle in a vice or somehow stabilize it in the vertical position. Set the head on it and align it. Tightly tape around the base of the head so the epoxy won't leak out. Then fill up the eye with epoxy. It will run down into all the voids. If you buy those twin cylinder epoxy kits at the hardware store, the ones that look like a pair of large hypodermic needles, then you'll need 2 for a typical hang. 1 won't quite get it.
I've only done a couple, an axe and a maul. But both are holding up fine 5 years later.
Hickory n steel
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I say take the handle off and hang it on a proper wood haft, with a kerf and wedge not just some glue or something.
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I'm presuming you want to keep the plastic/ fiberglass core handle?Hello, can anyone please tell me how I fix this? Somehow the axe head is coming away from the handle.
Thanks.
In that case slide it up(off would be good) and slather two part epoxy all over the tongue before re-seating the axe.
I and everyone else here loves wood hafts.
So really the best advice is go get one of those! And, while you're at it, get yourself a good quality vintage axe head. Good luck! Post up your progress for us to check out once you finish!
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LoL I love how this recommendation ends up being a whole new head and handle!
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Of the two options posed in the title to this thread, I'd say it's the handle.
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Do you have the tools to fit and trim a new handle? If not then the epoxy will be cheaper.
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Several of the better brands of plastic handled tools advertised good warrentees.....
Oregon Tool replaced a couple of spliting mauls for my son before he learned to split wood!
Oregon Tool replaced a couple of spliting mauls for my son before he learned to split wood!
Thanks for your replies. I don't know what tools you think would be involved. If I had to guess, a vice, chisels, hammers, an angle grinder and ?
Please tell me what exactly you think the process is going to involve and specific steps and I can tell you if it's feasible.
In relation to warranty, I have had this axe for a long time and I don't know where I got it from either.
Hickory n steel
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To trim and fit a new handle all you really need is a hand saw, a mallet, and a rasp.
With this axe it might be easiest to tap on the bottom of the handle to seat the head back down where it was then drill a hole through the head and rivet it with say a 16D nail.
Drill a hole with the proper sized bit, then chamfer both sides with a larger one so you can file the rivet pretty flush afterwards.
That's probably what I'd do with this axe if i wanted a cheap and easy way to put it back into service.
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If you have not watched this video, An Ax to Grind, please grab a favorite beverage and or snack and watch.
Jam packed full of information & knowledge this video and the printed manual are an excellent resource for all things ax.
The video will go over some basic tools and you will be able to watch an axe head being fitted and rehung.
Very informative and in itself a goto tool/resource.
Good luck and let us know what you decided to do, and show us your end result
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H n S gave you a good basic list. Best if the rasp is a 4-in-hand rasp.
I'm familiar with your axe. The trouble is it has thin flat cheeks that cause it to stick more than a vintage convex-cheeked axe would. At best it's a stop gap or an axe for occasional use. It will certainly get through a piece of wood. But if you ever used a good vintage axe you'd likely never pick this one up again.
Ah yes, I think it did have something around it like that before. If that's the case, it may not have actually come loose?Is the head loose? looks like a black plastic trim piece has torn off to me.
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Epoxy would still probably get it done as your cheapest option. (Get it from the dollar store.). But if you’re buying a $6 tube of epoxy, you’re getting close to the cost of a cheap handle. That and a four in hand (or 4 in 1) file is all you really need and you would enjoy the pride of a job well done.
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This conversation is way more interesting than plastic handle threads usually are.
My 2¢ is I think you need to get the head and haft apart to even know what's going on in that eye. I'm not familiar with the construction techniques they might use. If you drill an exploratory hole through the top fill, say 3/8", you might be able to check it out. In fact, might pump some epoxy in there (I *really* like West System G-Flex for plastics) and tap it tight until it cures. The pressure of seating the head snug with epoxy in there should drive there epoxy into the small spaces.
My 2¢ is I think you need to get the head and haft apart to even know what's going on in that eye. I'm not familiar with the construction techniques they might use. If you drill an exploratory hole through the top fill, say 3/8", you might be able to check it out. In fact, might pump some epoxy in there (I *really* like West System G-Flex for plastics) and tap it tight until it cures. The pressure of seating the head snug with epoxy in there should drive there epoxy into the small spaces.
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Handle probably went through the same quality control the glue did if in that still makes you think it’s worth repairing maybe like much of the junk produced nowadays it’s designedengineered to fail.
Thank you all for your replies.
The epoxy mentioned costs far in excess what this axe cost originally.
Thinking about it, I am pretty sure that when I last used this I did get blisters on my hand.
I'm not sure exactly where I am supposed to drill according to Fmont and could do with a photograph/diagram to demonstrate please.
Would the cheap epoxy do a good enough job?
Do you all think I should leave the handle on the axe or try to remove it to see what was going on?
If I did decide to go for the new handle approach, should I be looking for something in particular (as in design for ergonomics and being compatible)?
Lastly, what does it mean for an axe to be flat or convex cheeked?
The epoxy mentioned costs far in excess what this axe cost originally.
Thinking about it, I am pretty sure that when I last used this I did get blisters on my hand.
I'm not sure exactly where I am supposed to drill according to Fmont and could do with a photograph/diagram to demonstrate please.
Would the cheap epoxy do a good enough job?
Do you all think I should leave the handle on the axe or try to remove it to see what was going on?
If I did decide to go for the new handle approach, should I be looking for something in particular (as in design for ergonomics and being compatible)?
Lastly, what does it mean for an axe to be flat or convex cheeked?
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