Looking for Fairbanks hammer operating manual...

I need to correct something. The shortest 5/8"-11 set screw goes in the crank - not in the rear yoke to hold the pin. The one in the rear yoke to hold the pin actually needs to be quite long to contact the pin, as I have discovered. That pin, which has a hole in it for the treadle spring and which also goes into the bottom of the brake mechanism to hold it in place, slides into a hole in the back of the yoke and in the middle of the yoke.

I decided to tap the oil holes on the yokes, so I could grease the machine, if I decided to do that. They are now 1/2"-20 threads but not very far down. That size was the next size up with my taps from the holes that already existed.
 
Robert,

Nice documenting... =]

I'm clueless what you mean about a set screw with a hole to mount treadle return spring. Our hammer has two springs, one each side of treadle near pivot points that attach to a formed bracket that is trapped under the nuts holding the top anvil strap. I understand some hammers (Bruce's) have a front/back pivot point for the treadle, where ours has them at rear sides.

Mike
 
Mike, look at post #79. It is on the 4th or 5th page of the thread I think. You can see the pin in several pictures. It comes out the back of the hammer about 6" down from the rear of the main shaft. In the first picture on post #79, you can see a spring stretching up from the treadle to the pin. That gave the return tension to the treadle. That pin goes all the way through the yoke in a casting hole especially for it (you can see the raised up casting on the rear yoke in one of the side pictures on post #79) and the other end of the pin goes into a hole in the bottom of the brake and holds the bottom of the brake against the drive pulley. The pin has its own set screw to hold it in place on the right side of the rear yoke, if you are standing in front of the hammer.

Today, I drilled out the casting on the very top of the rear yoke that held the pin in place that actually applies the brake, because it had become quite oblong from use and no lubrication. The hole is now 1" diameter, so that I can make a new pin (old one was worn out badly) out of some 1" round stock that I have. I drilled out the hole on the arm of the round weight that attaches to this pin to match. I will now need to fabricate a new arm of some sort to attach to the pin to hook to the treadle to allow me to apply the brake. Mike, did you guys just extend the shaft of the round weight so it could be linked to the treadle? A picture of your hammer makes me ask this. That could possibly eliminate the need for a separate arm.
 
Page 4, Robert...

I think part of the function of that pin is to position the brake shoes in/out... besides it's positoning the brake shoe in the recess. I loosened the pin set screw on ours and tapped the end of the pin until it bottomed out. Doing that caused the brake shoe edge to drag on the drive pulley and I could no longer turn the drive by hand. I have no idea what the tolerance is but if the pin is set-screwed too far out, the brake will rattle like crazy with the hammer running. I messed with a lot of other related adjustments and right now I can't get rid of the rattle without having the brake shoe edge drag... may never get it figured out, for that matter... another instance of designed-in, interrelated aspects.

I'm lost on the second paragraph, Robert. I've read it through a number of times and I'm not making a picture of what you are dealing with. Are we talking about parts 30, 31, and 41 in the catalog?

Mike
 
Mike, that pin (brake pin ring, part #30) that goes into the hole in the bottom of the brake shoe is just a pin with a rounded end that fits in the brake shoe. Yes, you could use it to adjust the brake shoe in and out a little, although the brake shoe is really designed to be in all the way. If you loosen the set screw and put a pair of pliers (channel locks) around the pin somewhere and turn the pin in the hole as you try to slide it by pulling on it, you can pull it back out a little to give yourself some clearance again. However, you don't want to move it much. Don't forget to tighten the set screw. This is the only mechanism that holds the brake shoe in at the bottom.

I should try to use the proper terms for these parts more. Sometimes I forget. Yes, I am making a new brake eccentric pin, part #31, out of 1" stock, because mine was badly worn out, and I drilled out that little extra casting that rests on the very top of the rear yoke - the highest part of the casting on the machine. The brake eccentric pin goes through it. I also drilled out the hole in the Bar and Ball, part #41. That hole in the bar and ball slips over the brake eccentric pin, and the weight of the ball applies the brake when you let off the treadle.

My question to you Mike was a picture of your machine makes it look like the bar on the end of your bar and ball has been extended and hooked to the treadle by a linkage. Is that the case? Extending the bar on the end of the bar and ball, part #41, could allow me to link the treadle to the brake eccentric pin without fabricating an entirely new part that would have to slip around the brake eccentric pin, just like the hole on the bar and ball. However, it may reduce the adjustment I would have on the treadle connection, because of the angles involved and banging something on the top of the hammer.
 
Mike, to give you some idea of the amount you can move that brake pin in and out, I would say the hole in the brake shoe is around half the thickness of the brake shoe. So, you have a good bit of leeway there, but the shoe might get a little loose on you, if you move the pin out too much. I just got my drive pulley back on, temporarily, yesterday. My shoe drags some now as well. I believe the dragging is occurring on the top where the shoe is split and results in two edges. I am going to play with it some.

I also need to add that a modification of the brake eccentric pin is necessary when doing a conversion from a mid-mount drive pulley to a rear mount drive pulley. On a mid-mount drive pulley setup, the brake eccentric pin is held in place by the bar and ball connection toward one end of it and the idler pulley connection toward the other end. These two connections hold the brake eccentric pin in the little cast housing on top of the hammer. When the drive pulley is moved to the outside of the yokes, the idler pulley must be moved as well, thus what was holding one end of the brake eccentric pin in place is now gone. Additionally, with the drive pulley placed outside of the rear yoke and against the rear main bushing, there is only 1/2" or so of space in between the brake ring and the little casting that the brake eccentric pin passes through, so there is no room for anything very thick to hold that end of the brake eccentric pin in the casting. Something has to be done to hold the back end of the brake eccentric pin in the casting and therefore in the brake. I am probably going to weld a thick washer onto the brake eccentric pin to hold it engaged in the brake. This modification must be done before the drive pulley is installed.

Mike, how is your brake eccentric pin, part #31, held in place on your rear mount pulley setup?
 
Mike, I adjusted the brake on the hammer today and stopped the dragging. I had more of a gap between the brake and the drive pulley on the bottom than I had on the top. I pulled off the drive pulley and bent the brake pin, part #30, down a little to try to even that gap. I put it back together (it took two tries) and then I used the adjustment in the two screws that hold the little arms against the brake eccentric pin on the top of the brake. They are part of the brake and don't have a separate name. You can shove the brake sideways with that adjustment. I needed to drill out the hole in one of the little arms to get more adjustment. Between those two things, I was able to eliminate the dragging.

I recently fabricated and painted a new brake eccentric pin and a new arm to attach the treadle linkage to the brake eccentric pin and installed them today. Instead of welding a washer onto the brake eccentric pin to hold it in place on one side, I found a collar with a set screw at a tool store. That is great, because it will allow me to remove the brake eccentric pin without taking off the drive pulley. I also fabricated a new linkage from the treadle to the new arm today. I now need to come up with a new spring to help return my treadle to the up position when things are at rest. The treadle on my machine outweighs the bar and ball weight, so the treadle goes all the way down at rest. I installed my drive pulley permanently today and tapped the housing for the brake eccentric pin for a grease fitting. I really think something that high on the hammer and so close to the brake really should be greased and not oiled.
 
It is nearly impossible to find the 9/16"-12 thread square head set screws that hold the drive pulley onto the main shaft. I checked all of the local bolt stores, and none stock 9/16" size of square head set screws. Apparently, 9/16" is more of an automotive size of bolt. You can find 1/2" and 5/8" square head set screws for the rest of the uses on the hammer, however.

After scouring the internet, I found two sites that sell them. They are The Industrial Depot and Suburban Bolt and Supply. The price is outrageous. They cost 5 or 6 times as much as even a bigger 5/8" one, but at least they can be bought. They are $15.00 each at one of the sites, and the other site will only sell 50 at a time for $100-$120, depending on the length. I can't remember which site is which. There is probably one size that could be used on all 4 holes, but I haven't figured that out yet.

The old set screws in my hammer all had rounded tips. I am not sure if that is from wear or design. Most square head set screws seem to have cup tips, so they can really get a grip. However, many of the places on the hammer don't need the tip to get a grip, such as the set screws in the main bushings and the set screw in the crank. The tip doesn't hit anything with those. However, the set screws in the drive pulley need to get a good grip. Two of them hit the shaft directly and two hit the key in the shaft. I intend to put screws with cup tips in all four locations for the drive pulley.
 
It is time to figure out how to mount the "tightener pulley" or idler pulley on the back of the hammer. It used to mount up high on the brake eccentric pin. I need to move it down in between the drive pulley and the motor. It appears from pictures I have seen that the hammers with rear-mount motors and drive pulleys use the same tightener pulley and arm as the hammers with mid-mount drive pulleys. Therefore, I believe I should be able to do so.

I used some duct tape to simulate a belt today and placed my motor and jack shaft temporarily on my new and unfinished back motor mount. It looks as if everything will line up to use my old tightener pulley and arm, if I place the pin or stud for the tightener pulley arm up higher on the back in the center and nearer the drive pulley. I remember Mike saying that the closer to the drive pulley the better, and I can do that. I also remember being told that the tightener or idler should be placed on the slack side of the belt and placed so that the pulley pushes the belt inward toward the drive pulley, in order to increase the contact of the pulley by the belt. My jack shaft pulley will be made to drive the drive pulley clockwise, so the slack side should be on the left, and I will place the tightener pulley outside the belt on the left.

The next issue is to how to actually mount the arm that holds the tightener pulley. As I said, it was mounted on the brake eccentric pin up on top the hammer. I measured the hole in the arm for the pin, and the hole is 7/8". I will need to drill and tap the back of the hammer casting to mount anything. I would like to use as thick of a pin as I can, since the tightener gets a great deal of use, and there will be pressure exerted on the pin. The casting is about 3 1/2" thick in this spot, and my experience with the casting tells me it is about 1 1/4" thick and hollow in the middle. Therefore, I am hesitant to drill a very large hole for a large pin. I have decided to fabricate a 5" or 6" plate out of 3/8" or so steel, drill a 7/8" hole in it, bevel the hole on both sides and weld a 7/8" pin in the hole. I will tap two holes in the back of the hammer and mount the plate with those holes. This should handle all of the stress, not damage the casting and still give me a strong pin.
 
Robert,

Sorry, I'm jambed up tight and I was out of computer contact for a couple of days. I'm not going to be able to get pictures of stuff you need pictures of... no camera until after the 28th of this month. The brake arm and ball are actuated by an extension of the linkage that attaches to a part attached to the brake cam, but for the life of me I can't remember how. I may be able to get to the shop and look tomorrow but I may not.

Dan should have the same piece with his rear mount unless the previous owner CANX'd it in his linkage remodel.

In any event, our hammer is original and there isn't an extension to the ball/arm mechanism. What you have is what we have.

One last thing... take a look at page #5 and the pic from the back of our machine... flat bar linkage with holes and rod with 90 deg. bend at tip. That little tip has a horizontal hole through it. It took awhile but it finally dawned on me the tip goes through a flat bar hole and is washered and cotter pinned... so now it is rotated 180 deg. It makes, along with the flat bar attached to the piece on the brake cam, two places to rough-adjust the linkage... one for idler/brake setting and one for treadle height.

So you know, there are multiple causes and effects in this system and I've not got them all figured out yet.

Mike
 
Is this the shot you need Robert?
 

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Hi Guys. Glad to see you both back around. Thanks for the pictures, Bruce. The setup on your hammer is the same mine was. The bar and ball and the tensioner pulley and arm go on each side of the little housing on the top of the hammer and hold each end of the brake eccentric pin in place in the housing. My issue was that I needed to move the bar and ball and the tensioner pulley arm both to the inside, so there was nothing holding the other side of the eccentric pin in the housing. I solved it by buying a collar with a set screw on it at a tool store and placing that on the other side.

Mike, I couldn't find a picture of the back of your hammer. My pages must not be the same as yours. I did find pictures of your hammer on post #53, but none of the back or the linkage. The eccentric pin and linkage on Dan's hammer are in a picture on post #32. However, they have been heavily modified. It looks like someone extended one of the arms and welded a collar on his brake eccentric pin. I can't tell what holds the pin on the brake side.

I fabricated a plate with a 7/8" pin welded to it to mount the belt tensioner pulley arm on the back of the hammer. I will try to post pictures. From looking back at pictures today, I saw that Mike's and Dan's hammers have a single bolt tapped into the back of the hammer to mount the arm, but I didn't think that would be sufficient to take the stress. I finished and painted the arms to hold up the motor mount table last night. They are 1/2" x 4" steel bar bolted to the hammer base. I will be working on the motor mount table today.
 
Sorry Robert...

Pg. 3, Post #53...

There are 3 pics there that will give you hints. The linkage is well represented and goes with last night's discussion.

When the treadle is depressed (ours pivots both sides at the rear so it can be run from either side or the front), it pulls down on the idler arm and tightens the belt. It also pulls down on what must be a tab attached to a collar the cam runs through... between the cast cam housing and back of drive pulley/brake shoes (didn't get to the shop and won't anytime soon, it looks like). The collar is adjustable and set-screws to the cam. With the ball and arm (brake set mechanism) also set-screws to the brake-cam shaft. Moving the treadle down also rotates the cam out of brake-on position and lifts the ball and arm.

Everything between the cam-lobe-with-brake-on and the treadle-at-height-"X" is adjustable in a number of places and every adjustment has it's effect.

Bruce and I have a treadle height... same eccentric stop (adjustable) with different treadle pivot points.

Mike
 
Hey Guys. I thought I would share a few pictures.
Here is a picture of the pin and plate I made to mount the tensioner pulley arm to the hammer.
tensionerpinlores.jpg
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Here is a picture of the arm I made to attach the brake eccentric pin to the treadle linkage.
brakearmcloselores.jpg
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Here is a picture of the old brake eccentric pin that goes into the little housing on top the rear yoke.
eccentricoldlores.jpg
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Here is the beginning of the new brake eccentric pin before I cut it in length. The end was tapered and formed like the old one.
eccentriclores.jpg
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Here are the completed arms for the motor mount.
motormountarmslores.jpg
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Here is the thick washer mounted on the rear of the shaft as a safety catch in case anything comes loose.
safetywasherlores.jpg
[/IMG]

Here is a collar with a set screw mounted on one end of the brake eccentric pin to hold it in the brake.
eccentricpincollarlores.jpg
[/IMG]
 
If push comes to shove, you could weld a short arm on your collar to move the linkage further back on the machine.

Mike
 
Mike, I don't see any need right now to move the arm. That seems to be pretty sorted out.

The hammer casting ended up being solid up where I mounted the arm for the tensioner pulley. At some point it goes from hollow down below to solid in the upper parts. I need to correct my earlier thought that it would be hollow there.

Mike, if you look at the picture just above of the arm that I made to attach the brake eccentric pin to the treadle linkage, right under the arm in the picture you will see a bolt head on the top of the brake and just beside the eccentric pin going into the brake. That is the bolt for one of the little adjusting arms for the brake. There is one on each side of the eccentric pin. You can move the brake side to side by sliding those little arms which will push on the end of the brake eccentric pin. That will allow you to center the brake and stop any side to side dragging of the brake.

One odd thing about the brake is that the lower pin that holds the bottom of the brake goes into a hole in the brake that is not drilled exactly in the center of the brake, even though the pin is set in the middle of the hammer casting. It appears that since nothing is really even and square that they must have individually fitted the brake to each machine and drilled the hole for the bottom pin during that fitting. The brake really has to fit pretty precisely to keep from dragging.

Where is Bruce?
 
farmer12888 said:
Mike, I don't see any need right now to move the arm. That seems to be pretty sorted out.

The hammer casting ended up being solid up where I mounted the arm for the tensioner pulley. At some point it goes from hollow down below to solid in the upper parts. I need to correct my earlier thought that it would be hollow there.

Mike, if you look at the picture just above of the arm that I made to attach the brake eccentric pin to the treadle linkage, right under the arm in the picture you will see a bolt head on the top of the brake and just beside the eccentric pin going into the brake. That is the bolt for one of the little adjusting arms for the brake. There is one on each side of the eccentric pin. You can move the brake side to side by sliding those little arms which will push on the end of the brake eccentric pin. That will allow you to center the brake and stop any side to side dragging of the brake.

One odd thing about the brake is that the lower pin that holds the bottom of the brake goes into a hole in the brake that is not drilled exactly in the center of the brake, even though the pin is set in the middle of the hammer casting. It appears that since nothing is really even and square that they must have individually fitted the brake to each machine and drilled the hole for the bottom pin during that fitting. The brake really has to fit pretty precisely to keep from dragging.

Where is Bruce?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't move it either, if I didn't have to. On our machine there would be a misalignment in both the linkage connections and where the linkage wants to connect to the treadle if the connection was where yours is.

Your second two paragraphs help a lot. I hadn't thought of the bolts holding the gizmos the brake eccentric works on as an adjustment... had simply moved those pieces out as far as they would go so their ends butted in the recess in the brake shoe. I'm sure that is where our brake shoe rattle is coming from.

Mike
 
One of the things I've wondered about is the position of the ball and arm when the brake is set. I'm not Mr. Physics but it seems there may be differences in setting and releasing the brake that would change depending on it's position.

Any thoughts or experiments?

Mike
 
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