Makers: Post pics of your knives.

I notice a few of my customers really like the thicker knives .125 or a little more at the neck but a drastic full distal taper as well. You end up with a knife that cuts like a laser but added rigidity so it is not too flexible. I should have a couple new blades to post in next couple weeks!
 
What thickness of steel are you guys starting with? I see some of you going thinker and having much more transition on the flats, and others starting very thin .070, or thinner? Is there a consensus as to what works best? New guy here looking for a starting point. I have a few blades roughed out in AEB-L and 52100. Both just under .0125 or 1/8.

When starting out, 0.125" is great to start with. 3/32" works pretty well. It's more forgiving in heat treat than thinner steel. The thickness depends on use as Stuart says. When I use 1/8" steel, I do a full distal taper, and full flat grind usually. In the knives I posted, only two were 1/8", the rest were thinner.

Aeb-l and 52100 are great choices. 1095, W2, W1, the hitachi steels, and even 15n20 are also commonly used. Fine grain, edge stability with thin edges, and toughness at high hardness make the best kitchen knives.
 
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Great job guys! Love seeing what everyone is doing, really inspiring!
The last few for the kitchen out of the shop:
AEB-L cleaver in Rosewood and African Blackwood
My KITH knife, a Kiritsuke style 52100 blade with Ringed Gidgee and African Blackwood
The last one is an AEB-L chef in Afzelia Burl and Indian Ebony








Those look great. The western style isn't my thing, but it looks really well made. What are the geometry specs?
 
Thanks Willie! I started out making all western style but I find myself gravitating toward Japanese more and more.
The specs on the cleaver:
OAL: 13.5"
Blade: 8" long, 2.87" heel height, convex grind down to near sharp with a micro bevel, hand sanded to 320 grit.
Steel: 0.13" AEB-L heat treated by Peter's to RC60

The Kiritsuke: (IIRC)
OAL: About 13"
Blade: 7.5" approx. Compound grind with the edge down to 0.007", hand sanded t 600 grit. Heel height 1.8"
Steel: 52100 HT to RC60-61

The Western:
OAL: 11.5"
Blade: 6.5" long, 1.75" high at heel, flat/convex combination grind. Edge taken down to 0.007" before sharpening. Hand sanded to 600 grit. Sharpened to 17 DPS to 1500 grit on the KME system and stropped with green compound
Steel: 0.1" AEB-L, heat treated by Peter's to RC61
Handle: Stabilized Afzelia Burl, Indian Ebony bolsters, copper liners, spacers and pins.
 
Latest Chef/Gyuto just over 9 inches Aeb-l rc 61,Koa handle with 1 mosaic pin and 2 stainless pins. I made this for a customer for a wedding present they wanted an M engraved on one side. The handle wood is amazing how you see different things from different angles.
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That is beautiful Gilbert! Finished this one up today. Etched and stone washed d2, maple burl, and g10.
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What thickness of steel are you guys starting with? I see some of you going thinker and having much more transition on the flats, and others starting very thin .070, or thinner? Is there a consensus as to what works best? New guy here looking for a starting point. I have a few blades roughed out in AEB-L and 52100. Both just under .0125 or 1/8.

most of the ones i have done lately start at 0.0625"(1/16) at the spine. they are paring/utility slicers. i have also done a few with 3/64" and 1/32". i use O1 partly because you have so many thicknesses available.
scott
 
this is the blade i received in the Kitchen KITH.
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specs: 12C27, no HT info. spine thickness is 0.83" at the handle, 0.71" mid spine, 0.03" at the tip. thickness is 0.010 at the edge, 0.03 1/4" above the edge. FFG with micro-bevel. 6.8 ounces, balance point is where handle meets blade. very interesting looking wood for handle. saya fits well and looks good.
scott
 
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It's not considered appropriate to criticize a kith knife in public. People at different skill levels join Kiths and they learn a lot from getting knives from other makers. Maybe you would like to post your submission for comparison?
 
It's not considered appropriate to criticize a kith knife in public. People at different skill levels join Kiths and they learn a lot from getting knives from other makers. Maybe you would like to post your submission for comparison?

Ditto.
 
It's not considered appropriate to criticize a kith knife in public. People at different skill levels join Kiths and they learn a lot from getting knives from other makers. Maybe you would like to post your submission for comparison?

mine has already been on display. not trying to criticize, just doing eval. original post has been modified
scott
 
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two rescue knives. found by the old home place. handles were rotting, lots of rust , cleaned with green scotch-brite and 120 grit belt
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the curved edge knife had been in the dirt for at least 6 years. could not find a maker's mark. , new handle is maple, tang was tapered in both width and thickness, made of good steel, now has a shaving edge.
the other is an Old Hickory clone made by Regent Cutlery in Columbia. new handle is cedar.
scott
 
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Here's a set I just finished. It's a 230mm Chef's knife and a 130mm petty. Handle is Blackwood, Bocote & Chacate preto.

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Jelle, those are gorgeous. I'm really liking your work. :thumbup:
 
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Here's a couple steak knives I finished this week. They started as 1/8" W2, but are 3/32 at the ricasso with full distal taper. I need a light box to get better pics, there is some nice activity in there. Edges are @.007", 15dps. Rc63. Bolsters are Wenge, and the handles are spalted curly mango. They are part of a 6 piece set. I still have to do the finish work on the last two.

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I love love love this thread!!!!.. Great work MAKERS!...And TY for posting pics.
 
Finished these two this weekend. This is how you know your a knife maker in oregon lol. Both are etched and stone washed d2. One is quilted maple with yellow and green g10. The other is curly maple, carbon fiber, and orange g10.
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big chopper for bar-b-que. blade is 8" x 4"O1. pic lighted by incandescant light bulbs so everthing is shaded red.
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