New car / automobile buying & leasing tips for CPK'ers

Private Klink said:
We have a 2017 Toyota Camry and love it. The best mileage we got was 40 on a trip to Illinois from Missouri, and the average is always in the mid to upper 30's. No problems with it so far. We also drove around the outskirts of the plant where it was built in Lexington Kentucky, assembled in the U.S.A. ;):thumbsup::thumbsup:
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Aww, you took the car back to visit its childhood home.
 
I drive a Ford truck*, so my concept of what constitutes good reliability is probably skewed. But my wife's Subaru, which she has driven regularly since 2018, has never once broken down or left us stranded. It's such a bizarre concept to me.


*I actually have three Ford trucks. Well, four. But right now only one of them is really roadworthy, the other has a massive oil leak. Well, so does the roadworthy one, but it's not that massive. I mean, it's a little bit massive. The other one, however, took 16 quarts of oil to get home from Ohio which is not ideal. Those wacky Fords ..
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I drive a Ford truck*, so my concept of what constitutes good reliability is probably skewed. But my wife's Subaru, which she has driven regularly since 2018, has never once broken down or left us stranded. It's such a bizarre concept to me.


*I actually have three Ford trucks. Well, four. But right now only one of them is really roadworthy, the other has a massive oil leak. Well, so does the roadworthy one, but it's not that massive. I mean, it's a little bit massive. The other one, however, took 16 quarts of oil to get home from Ohio which is not ideal. Those wacky Fords ..
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I'm trading in my explorer for the ascent. Not because I don't like the explorer, but because the transmission has been rebuilt and numerous parts have been replaced under warranty and it still doesn't work right. Ford does not want to replace it, even though they have spent close to $9k in repairs on it. The service manager even told me to get rid of it before the warranty expires. Kind of crappy.
 
unwisefool said:
I'm trading in my explorer for the ascent. Not because I don't like the explorer, but because the transmission has been rebuilt and numerous parts have been replaced under warranty and it still doesn't work right. Ford does not want to replace it, even though they have spent close to $9k in repairs on it. The service manager even told me to get rid of it before the warranty expires. Kind of crappy.
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But but but... Then it become somebody else's problem?

Someone will buy a used Ford and have reliability issues?


I should get another one. The next one's going to be the good one. I can feel it...
 
^ I used to be in the business, still have friends in the business, once in a while I dabble with all that crap because it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks and despite having "easier" access to mechanics, repairs, OEM and none OEM parts at wholesale discounted prices, I tend to eschew older used crappolas because even someone like me with the connections loses his proverbial arse when it comes to maintenances and all the other headaches associated with used autos.

If I have found one golden rule throughout my learning experience, it is the one that tells me not to buy a much older vehicle with a bunch of miles no matter how well it seems to have been looked after! I have learned that I rather keep the used vehicles to something like no older than 5-6 years old and preferably no more than 90K miles. There are of course exceptions to this rule, for instance a slightly older Toyota with slightly more miles but that tolerance zone does not extend to double the years and double the miles, no griffin way!

As a matter of fact, I actually prefer later model vehicles with less miles even if involved in a minor fender bender but without egregious and serious frame damage issues to much older models without consistent histories (I won't even comment on that cancer known as serious rust because I am talking CA sunshine state type of vehicles). But to address your comment, yes used cars with issues and problems do end up being someone else's headache and problems. If these problematic vehicles are sold through a dealer which whether by law, regulations or some vestige of conscience puts the vehicle through multi-point inspection, the next owner may reap the rewards for a bit longer than breaking down the road soon as it is driven down the road, but don't hold breath for too long on that one! Buying new and taking care of it or buying one's own leased one as long as it has not been treated like a rented mule as most often are, is really the safest way but who really does that? Oh yeah, I do because I am a super anal lame no-fun SOB! :p
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
But but but... Then it become somebody else's problem?

Someone will buy a used Ford and have reliability issues?


I should get another one. The next one's going to be the good one. I can feel it...
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The dealership already knows the issue, they have been servicing it the entire time. They said not to worry. Plus it will still have some warranty left on it when I trade it in.
 
Got my long-tube headers and upper pullet kit for my 2012 CTS-V and had my local performance shop install them. The pre-install dyno run was 457 HP and 431 TQ at the wheels on their Dynojet brand dyno. After installing the long-tube headers and a 2.38" upper pulley kit, and with a really good tune by a very experienced tuner using the HP Tuner software, it now makes 576 HP and 564 TQ. It's now a real hoot to drive, and also sounds so much better! I' didn't expect that much of a HP increase (I was anticipating 525-550), but I'm sure not complaining!
 
weerebellie said:
Price. Cost is arguably the most crucial aspect to take into account when buying an automobile. The cost of a car can vary greatly, with some models living up to their advertised price while others fall short. A mechanical device used to lift heavy objects called a heavy winch. Winches operate by either drawing or releasing a rope or wire rope (also known as link) or by adjusting the rope's tension.
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This seems like a weird, bot-type post.
 
I currently am having the smoothest most hassle free period of car ownership.
I have three $800 cars and one $500 car. If one doesn't start another will. One always has fuel. No more huge repair or servicing bills:) no fretting over a scratch or bump
Any of them break down the scrap value will be more than I have in them.
My favourite is a 2003 bmw 320d touring with 190k.
 
SIx Magpies said:
I currently am having the smoothest most hassle free period of car ownership.
I have three $800 cars and one $500 car. If one doesn't start another will. One always has fuel. No more huge repair or servicing bills:) no fretting over a scratch or bump
Any of them break down the scrap value will be more than I have in them.
My favourite is a 2003 bmw 320d touring with 190k.
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I used to have a 335d, that thing was a rocket. Great handling. Unfortunately the special exhaust system needed to be replaced and it was almost $10k so it had to go.
 
Ok. So I have a 2006 Ford E350 with the 6.0l turbo diesel 10’ straight/box truck. It’s a time bomb. But it’s running perfect right now. I found a 2014 Ram pro master 2500 that I’m considering trading into. It’s listed as having a 3L I4 diesel.
Anybody have any experience with these? Is it a good engine? Or would I be trading a lemon for a lemon?
Any advice or first hand knowledge would be appreciated.
 
Cap’n Smudge said:
Ok. So I have a 2006 Ford E350 with the 6.0l turbo diesel 10’ straight/box truck. It’s a time bomb. But it’s running perfect right now. I found a 2014 Ram pro master 2500 that I’m considering trading into. It’s listed as having a 3L I4 diesel.
Anybody have any experience with these? Is it a good engine? Or would I be trading a lemon for a lemon?
Any advice or first hand knowledge would be appreciated.
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I don't have any personal experience with this model year ProMaster but I think that Bryan aka Standard78 Standard78 owns some version of a ProMaster work van. Without your so-called time bomb Ford E350 being thrown in the equation, that MY ProMaster just does not score very high on any consumer reports which I've gleaned at. That 3.0L EcoDiesel I4 engine is not a terrible motor at all as Fiat has been using it on many of its trucks and vans but the reliability issues do not stem from the motor but almost just everything else for which I think the replacement parts can be pricy.
 
Casinostocks said:
I don't have any personal experience with this model year ProMaster but I think that Bryan aka Standard78 Standard78 owns some version of a ProMaster work van. Without your so-called time bomb Ford E350 being thrown in the equation, that MY ProMaster just does not score very high on any consumer reports which I've gleaned at. That 3.0L EcoDiesel I4 engine is not a terrible motor at all as Fiat has been using it on many of its trucks and vans but the reliability issues do not stem from the motor but almost just everything else for which I think the replacement parts can be pricy.
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I have a 2004 Dodge(Mercedes) Sprinter with the 2.7l diesel that is a great drivetrain, but the rest of the van is mediocre compared to a Ford or GM 3/4 ton.
 
Cap’n Smudge said:
Ok. So I have a 2006 Ford E350 with the 6.0l turbo diesel 10’ straight/box truck. It’s a time bomb. But it’s running perfect right now. I found a 2014 Ram pro master 2500 that I’m considering trading into. It’s listed as having a 3L I4 diesel.
Anybody have any experience with these? Is it a good engine? Or would I be trading a lemon for a lemon?
Any advice or first hand knowledge would be appreciated.
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Have you ever looked into bulletproofing that 6.0L? It's not a terrible engine, it just has a few quirks that make them extremely troublesome but those quirks are well understood and there are solutions to them. Particularly if you live in a place where you can make a few deletes. If it is running well and has not suffered damage yet from those issues, bulletproofing it can keep it on the road for 300,000 miles or more.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Have you ever looked into bulletproofing that 6.0L? It's not a terrible engine, it just has a few quirks that make them extremely troublesome but those quirks are well understood and there are solutions to them. Particularly if you live in a place where you can make a few deletes. If it is running well and has not suffered damage yet from those issues, bulletproofing it can keep it on the road for 300,000 miles or more.
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I’ve considered it and looked into it. It’s more that I’ve recently “lost” my job. As in, the company I’ve subcontracted electrical services to (for the past 16 years) was sold and the new owners want to keep me on but in a management/consulting role. So I don’t need my tools with me for work anymore. I’ll still do side jobs but won’t need a lot of the stuff on my current truck to do the side jobs. I have a lot of materials and underground tools I don’t need to carry, so I was looking for something more fuel efficient/less heavy duty.
I figured no check engine lights or abs lights on would be a good time to do it. I only have about $10k into the truck (most of that was to get it running) and it’s only got 90k miles on it because it broke down on the previous owner and he just let it sit for 5 years. But diesel keeps going up. I don’t know. $150 in fuel/fill up is already eating into my knife budget.
DEK1, DEK2, DEK3, K20 or bulletproof truck?
Clearly I need to get rid of the truck.
Have you found a new vehicle for your daughter?
Kids love box trucks!
 
Cap’n Smudge said:
I’ve considered it and looked into it. It’s more that I’ve recently “lost” my job. As in, the company I’ve subcontracted electrical services to (for the past 16 years) was sold and the new owners want to keep me on but in a management/consulting role. So I don’t need my tools with me for work anymore. I’ll still do side jobs but won’t need a lot of the stuff on my current truck to do the side jobs. I have a lot of materials and underground tools I don’t need to carry, so I was looking for something more fuel efficient/less heavy duty.
I figured no check engine lights or abs lights on would be a good time to do it. I only have about $10k into the truck (most of that was to get it running) and it’s only got 90k miles on it because it broke down on the previous owner and he just let it sit for 5 years. But diesel keeps going up. I don’t know. $150 in fuel/fill up is already eating into my knife budget.
DEK1, DEK2, DEK3, K20 or bulletproof truck?
Clearly I need to get rid of the truck.
Have you found a new vehicle for your daughter?
Kids love box trucks!
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My friend just downsized to a ridgeline and loves it.
 
Nathan, glad that Abigail seems to be OK after the second Camry getting rear ended and totaled but if you are now thinking a more robust and sturdy chassis as opposed o your typical Toyota / Honda / Nissan / Hyundai models for a college bound young girl, you will also have to consider reliability issues when Abby is out of the nest. Being around you and Jo who are technically minded parents, she may have picked up a lot of secondary knowledge about how machines operate but if you have similar characters to the females in my family who exclaimed stuff like, "check and change oil? why? doesn't it tell me when the oil is empty?" then watch out! My own daughter was driving an older Mercedes M-Class while going to school and living in another city which resulted in nothing but major PTSD for me and a whole bunch of expenses, headache and heartache. I did go the route of sturdiness vs reliability and although the script was not flipped on me to assess otherwise, I know that unless there is a technically knowledgeable guy around, a younger female driving an older and more complex car could be asking for a host of other problems. If you go this route, at least make sure that Abby gets the best plan which AAA offers (Platinum IIRC).

ETA: I would recommend a slightly older Subaru over Audi, Jags, etc... Unless Jo is itching to get into a brand new 2023 Outback to give Abby her hand-me-down ;)
 
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