Progress Thread - The Redmeadow Bowies

Thanks guys, I was gonna start a new thread for it, but thought we might as well keep everything in one place.
 
lessismore said:
Getting things twinned up. Lined them up in the Bump guide and evened up the shoulders.
View attachment 726140
21958720151002185826.gif

:eek:
Man that still creeps me out
View attachment 726167
​
Click to expand...
Looking good. And now for a little bit of movie trivia. Those Big Wheel shots were the first time that the Steadicam system was ever used in "low mode" where the camera was mounted to an upside down post attached to the cradle so that it could shoot from below the waist level of the cameraman. Stanley Kubrick said that he wanted shots form floor level and they had to invent a new accessory. Knowing Kubrick, he probably shot that scene 50 times, but, for the most part it was one long single shot.
 
That was a great scene....even with the creepy twins.
 
Blade is looking good, can't wait to see it when it's finished.
 
Nice! Your Bowie's are going to have a sharpened false edge (swedge), right?

p dot s - damn, you're fast! I was gonna ask earlier, how does the heat effect your knife mangling time. Now, I knows(sic)... :thumbsup:
 
Sharp most of the way, I'm afraid with the curve of the spine it will be a sheath eater if I sharpened it all the way.

Heat affects shop time only because of the time of year....mowing, gardening, kids swim lessons, air shows, little trips. As far as the temperature, the shop stays pretty cool, I'll put a fan on me at the grinder if it gets too bad.
 
Last edited:
I need to throw one of those in my shop, it's in the high 90's and that ain't no fun!
 
Oh yeah. When it does decide to get hot out there the wind stops blowing. At least you can't smell Browning while you sweat.
 
^Thats a fact Jack. You've definitely spent some time on Hwy 2!
 
Some pics to tide us over. These are .17" at the thckear and taper down nicely. They'll thin out a bit more after HT.
IMG_20170709_125910-798x1117.jpg IMG_20170709_125640-1023x1565.jpg
 
Thanks Tim, I think this .17" is gonna work out nicely with the blade length.

I need to get a bigger piece of bronze, that makes the a nice backdrop for steel doesn't it?
 
I'm curious, when you have an angled (dropped) tang, and a solid block of handle material, how do you slot the material for the tang? Obviously not an angled drill bit; is it a combination of drill and file work?
 
I drill it from each end and then use jigsaw blades, needle files and homemade broaches from scrap (strips leftover after cutting blanks out of barstock works good). Straight tangs and center barrels are easy peasy, but solid handles with curved "through tangs" make it tricky. That's why sometimes you see thin spacers throughout curved handles. It breaks up the handle parts and let's you drill out small sections instead of one continuous curve.
 
Kim
lessismore said:
I drill it from each end and then use jigsaw blades, needle files and homemade broaches from scrap (strips leftover after cutting blanks out of barstock works good). Straight tangs and center barrels are easy peasy, but solid handles with curved "through tangs" make it tricky. That's why sometimes you see thin spacers throughout curved handles. It breaks up the handle parts and let's you drill out small sections instead of one continuous curve.
Click to expand...
Great stuff, glad Sheldon asked! :thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top