Survival knife ?

AR-Trvlr said:
Any updates on timing? Are we still looking at mid-July for the first ones to start shipping?
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I've convinced myself to not expect them till midish August. Anything earlier would be the cherry on top (I think I'm at # 5 on the pre-order list).
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
I'm not saying that using a knife to throw sparks is a bad idea. But I'm also not saying it's a good idea either. To each their own. But my knives are fully finished, if someone wants to modify one for a particular task that's their prerogative.
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Would sharpening a portion of the spine void the warranty ?
 
kingdmx3 said:
Would sharpening a portion of the spine void the warranty ?
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It would depend on what you did, but as a general rule no.

My materials and workmanship are guaranteed. Modifications you make to it don't change my materials and workmanship (nor does age or change of ownership or proof of purchase etc.)

As a general rule, most of my knives are not guaranteed to never break, that would require them to be thicker than optimal. They cut well (geometry), hold an edge well (metallurgy) and are very durable (3V) and are made to exacting levels of repeatability so a person can know their knife (geometry, steel, heat treat) is the same as the demonstration knives. My geometry and heat treat are very well developed and are among the best in the world.

If you grind a notch on the back of your knife and then it breaks there when you pry with it or hit it with a hammer, that's on you.

If you don't grind a notch on the back of your knife and you do heavy prying with it or wail on it with a hammer and it breaks, that's still on you. (I've broken an HDFK beating the piss out of it with a 4 pound hammer, well outside what any sane person would do to their knife but it can be done)

If your knife fails with moderate prying or reasonable batoning <---- well that's pretty unlikely because we take care to build them right, but that would be on me.


My knives are guaranteed to cut well and hold an edge well <---- that's an area where a person is most likely to screw one up. Powered grinding needs to be done slow and under flood coolant, otherwise it can overheat the edge and reduce the edge retention.
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
It would depend on what you did, but as a general rule no.

My materials and workmanship are guaranteed. Modifications you make to it don't change my materials and workmanship (nor does age or change of ownership or proof of purchase etc.)

As a general rule, most of my knives are not guaranteed to never break, that would require them to be thicker than optimal. They cut well (geometry), hold an edge well (metallurgy) and are very durable (3V) and are made to exacting levels of repeatability so a person can know their knife (geometry, steel, heat treat) is the same as the demonstration knives. My geometry and heat treat are very well developed and are among the best in the world.

If you grind a notch on the back of your knife and then it breaks there when you pry with it or hit it with a hammer, that's on you.

If you don't grind a notch on the back of your knife and you do heavy prying with it or wail on it with a hammer and it breaks, that's still on you. (I've broken an HDFK beating the piss out of it with a 4 pound hammer, well outside what any sane person would do to their knife but it can be done)

If your knife fails with moderate prying or reasonable batoning <---- well that's pretty unlikely because we take care to build them right, but that would be on me.


My knives are guaranteed to cut well and hold an edge well <---- that's an area where a person is most likely to screw one up. Powered grinding needs to be done slow and under flood coolant, otherwise it can overheat the edge and reduce the edge retention.
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^ This is why we buy CPK :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
It would depend on what you did, but as a general rule no.

My materials and workmanship are guaranteed. Modifications you make to it don't change my materials and workmanship (nor does age or change of ownership or proof of purchase etc.)

As a general rule, most of my knives are not guaranteed to never break, that would require them to be thicker than optimal. They cut well (geometry), hold an edge well (metallurgy) and are very durable (3V) and are made to exacting levels of repeatability so a person can know their knife (geometry, steel, heat treat) is the same as the demonstration knives. My geometry and heat treat are very well developed and are among the best in the world.

If you grind a notch on the back of your knife and then it breaks there when you pry with it or hit it with a hammer, that's on you.

If you don't grind a notch on the back of your knife and you do heavy prying with it or wail on it with a hammer and it breaks, that's still on you. (I've broken an HDFK beating the piss out of it with a 4 pound hammer, well outside what any sane person would do to their knife but it can be done)

If your knife fails with moderate prying or reasonable batoning <---- well that's pretty unlikely because we take care to build them right, but that would be on me.


My knives are guaranteed to cut well and hold an edge well <---- that's an area where a person is most likely to screw one up. Powered grinding needs to be done slow and under flood coolant, otherwise it can overheat the edge and reduce the edge retention.
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Thank you for the information. If I ever needed a striker then and didn't have one I would use the edge. I don't pry with my knives. I do light baton Ing and basic camp chores mostly cutting and chopping. Thank you for the information. I look forward to my HDFK
 
kingdmx3 said:
Thank you for the information. If I ever needed a striker then and didn't have one I would use the edge. I don't pry with my knives. I do light baton Ing and basic camp chores mostly cutting and chopping. Thank you for the information. I look forward to my HDFK
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If you carry a firesteel, just carry a lighteweight striker with it so you don't have to worry about the edge of your knife. ;)
 
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