Toohr #3 knife sharpener

777 Edge said:
No, not at all. That's a common misunderstanding with these types of spring steel clamps. Yes, they are very flexible when not clamped and tightened but that's the beauty of their design. They are made to be able to adjust and to conform with the grind of a knife blade.

When you clamp them on a blade and tighten them, they become solid as can be. The action of clamping them makes them a rigid triangular truss, very secure.
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Thank goodness!

It's not so much that I'm over thinking everything, I just want to be certain that when I munge a blade that I only have myself to blame.

I ordered some pretty decent used knives, nothing high end, from the auction site and my next posts will be in one of the sharpening forums. i.e. wet or dry, back and forth or sweeping motions, etc. etc.

But again, thanks for the virtual Valium :)
 
The Tech said:
777 Edge 777 Edge What do you recommend for lubricating the bearings?
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If you're using polymer bearings then you don't need much at all. Perhaps a tiny bit of dry graphite lubricant if you want to, but not much is needed.

For roller ball linear bearings in the 3D printing community, people typically prefer lithium or silicon grease but in all honesty it doesn't matter as much in a sharpener. Your bearings are not under any extreme loads and won't build up much heat due to friction so you don't really need anything fancy for lubrication.

Just use something at hand that gives you a smooth glide feeling and does not collect too much dirt. Many times, I just use some of my Gunny glide graphene lubricant on my sharpeners and that works well for me.
 
First post on bladeforums. I created an account here after being told about this thread on reddit. I just ordered one of these sharpening systems off Amazon. It's called the KETIPED there, and has a $20 off coupon. Thanks for the knowledge shared, and I hope I can find ways to contribute.
 
Received mine two weeks ago, First thing that need a cleaning was that stiff linear bearing and metal rail. TOTAL FULL OF METAL SHAVINGS and seemed to be missing two ball bearings on each side.

Anyways,In the process of disassembly the wire and few bearings suddenly flung away, never to be found again.I have ordered a replacement. I did watch a few disassembly clips but the one received was not exactly the same, there was a brief struggle.

Second area of concern was the stone holder,the metal rod with the red nylon ball isn't screwed or in anyway fastened or glued into the front aluminum stone holder.Unlike the guide rod which is locked in with a M8 set screw.I also have one if these on order.For those wondering it came apart trying on a 6"x1" diamond stone.Looking at the rod and where it goes in, it seems to be a reddish grease or maybe some type of rubber cement.....Really Weird
 

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razorburn said:
Received mine two weeks ago, First thing that need a cleaning was that stiff linear bearing and metal rail. TOTAL FULL OF METAL SHAVINGS and seemed to be missing two ball bearings on each side.

Anyways,In the process of disassembly the wire and few bearings suddenly flung away, never to be found again.I have ordered a replacement. I did watch a few disassembly clips but the one received was not exactly the same, there was a brief struggle.

Second area of concern was the stone holder,the metal rod with the red nylon ball isn't screwed or in anyway fastened or glued into the front aluminum stone holder.Unlike the guide rod which is locked in with a M8 set screw.I also have one if these on order.For those wondering it came apart trying on a 6"x1" diamond stone.Looking at the rod and where it goes in, it seems to be a reddish grease or maybe some type of rubber cement.....Really Weird
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The rod is supposed to be glued in, or a pressure fit. There is no screw to hold it in. Yours likely did not have enough glue would be my guess. I would roughen up the hole and the rod with some sandpaper to remove any glue already in there and then epoxy it into place.
 
So I am not sure why all of my image links are not working. When I go to edit them the images appear perfectly fine. I can only guess it is something to do with me using resized image links instead of originals and that breaking something. I am going through and editing all the posts to use the full size images. It makes it a pain since they are large and break up the flow of the posts IMO but at least people can see what is being discussed now.

Edit: The forum was doing something really funky with the links. Perhaps because I used a linked resized image so people could click onto the image to see the full size version. I made my first post with full size pictures and the following ones using non linked resized images to see if one or the other breaks in the future.

It was really odd because when I went and clicked edit post the images all showed up like they should, but when viewing the post they were all X'ed out but you could still click on them to be taken to the image.
 
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Bdtry said:
The rod is supposed to be glued in, or a pressure fit. There is no screw to hold it in. Yours likely did not have enough glue would be my guess. I would roughen up the hole and the rod with some sandpaper to remove any glue already in there and then epoxy it into place.
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Sort of the weak link if you ask me.Anyways the M8 set screws ordered last week are in.

Atm, I think I should of just expoxy it then drilled and pin it.
 
razorburn said:
Atm, I think I should of just epoxy it then drilled and pin it.
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Just a decent solvent cleaning and some good metal epoxy will be more than enough. Drilling and pinning it will be a major PITA with the hardened steel rod, but it really should not be necessary in my opinion.
 
777 Edge said:
Just a decent solvent cleaning and some good metal epoxy will be more than enough. Drilling and pinning it will be a major PITA with the hardened steel rod, but it really should not be necessary in my opinion.
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Understand this I'm less thrilled about what happened but I don't want it happening again.So I'm going to install a set screw with red loctite.Then expoxy the steel plate over the hole.

Fyi,I am not scared to drill a hole in some hardened steel.I have a variable speed mill and carbide drills.

Ultimately it is mine to do whatever.
 
I just received my hapstone scissor adapter from gritomatic. I was going to drill/tap the clamp bar on the Toohr, but looks like the stock clamps work just fine. I just moved the clamps to where the clamp bolts lined up with the Hapstone slots, opened up the clamps a little and it slid right in. The shaft for the stone holder is also long enough to get a full stroke on the 6" stone. I did the sharpie method on a cheap pair of scissors and it seemed to work fine. I would post a pic, but I don't have an image hosting sight.

JM
 
I received mine from Amazon. It appears to have all the same issues out of the box reported elsewhere. I had metal shavings in the linear bearings on the slide, so I disassembled, cleaned everything, honed rough surfaces and sharp edges, lubed and reassembled.

lSGFsSh.jpeg


I also took apart, cleaned, and lubed the angle adjustment assembly and guide rods. Everything seems solid so far. I am a little bit concerned about the clamps being able to hold any of my knives with blade stock more than 3/16" thick. I suppose I'll start researching the clamp upgrade options discussed throughout this thread.

The diamond stones and digital angle gauge I ordered for it should be here tomorrow. Then I can do my first sharpening. I'll take more pictures tonight, particularly of the clamps holding my Junglas 2.
 
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I've skimmed through all 20 pages of the thread. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a diamond rod adapter to use with this system for sharpening serrated blades or smooth recurve edges?

Edit for clarity: I don't want to sharpen serrated knives on this system. I have a recurve knife that is atrociously annoying to sharpen. It's no fun on my Worksharp Precision Adjust and it's no fun by hand. A few different grit diamond rods with end cap adapters that would fit into the stone holder or even some stones with a radius would be so nice.
 
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TL;DR: I like it a lot. I need clamps that can accept thicker blade stock.

I've got my Amazon KETIPED variant of the Toohr 3 sharpener all cleaned up and lubed. I still don't have my new digital angle gauge or diamond stones, so I don't feel 100% comfortable doing a complete sharpening yet. I want to compare the angles of the clamps rotated 180 degrees so I can make adjustments if necessary.

I did put my ESEE Junglas II (3/16" or 4.76mm blade stock) and an Extrema Ratio knock-off (5.71mm or ~7/32" blade stock) into the clamps to see how they would fit. They did, but I had to lightly pry the clamps open from their static position with slack in the hex screws. I don't love that. I'll have to see about sourcing some compatible clamps that can take 1/4" or slightly thicker knives. I like big choppers, and the whole reason I bought this system was because the slide would make it easier to sharpen long blades.

Please excuse my messy work area and that some of these pictures aren't the best.

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This is a bad picture, but I was trying to capture the clamp needing to be pried wide to fit the Junglas II.

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I did take earlier advice from the thread and clamped on the ricasso to try and stabilze the blade and ensure it was straight.

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The stones it came with looked ok, so I decided to at least give the ER clone, which I don't really care about, an easy honing run with the 2000 and 3000 grit stones just to get a feel for the sharpener's action. It's awesome. So much better than my Worksharp Precision adjust. So smooth and much easier to resist the temptation to put pressure on the stone while pushing it over the blade due to the angle the clamps hold it.

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theMachine said:
I have a recurve knife that is atrociously annoying to sharpen. It's no fun on my Worksharp Precision Adjust and it's no fun by hand. A few different grit diamond rods with end cap adapters that would fit into the stone holder or even some stones with a radius would be so nice.
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The Venev Gemini stones is a solid choice for recurve blades.


For your thickest and widest blades, look into the option of a magnetic platform as opposed to clamps. That will give you a lot of versatility.
 
theMachine said:
I received mine from Amazon. It appears to have all the same issues out of the box reported elsewhere. I had metal shavings in the linear bearings on the slide, so I disassembled, cleaned everything, honed rough surfaces and sharp edges, lubed and reassembled.

lSGFsSh.jpeg


I also took apart, cleaned, and lubed the angle adjustment assembly and guide rods. Everything seems solid so far. I am a little bit concerned about the clamps being able to hold any of my knives with blade stock more than 3/16" thick. I suppose I'll start researching the clamp upgrade options discussed throughout this thread.

The diamond stones and digital angle gauge I ordered for it should be here tomorrow. Then I can do my first sharpening. I'll take more pictures tonight, particularly of the clamps holding my Junglas 2.
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Awesome, glad you got it up and running. The clamps are the one huge downside of this system. You can get Tsprof or Hapstone (with adapter) that can fit up to 6-7mm (1/4"), but as 777 Edge 777 Edge stated, a magnetic table would work well for thicker knives. Gritomatic has the "Leading Edge Universal Upgrade Kit for Tsprof K03" that I posted earlier that will work without any adapters. If you want to use the Hapstone extended magnetic table you would need an adapter but I don't think it is available anywhere.


theMachine said:
I've skimmed through all 20 pages of the thread. Does anyone have a good suggestion for a diamond rod adapter to use with this system for sharpening serrated blades or smooth recurve edges?

Edit for clarity: I don't want to sharpen serrated knives on this system. I have a recurve knife that is atrociously annoying to sharpen. It's no fun on my Worksharp Precision Adjust and it's no fun by hand. A few different grit diamond rods with end cap adapters that would fit into the stone holder or even some stones with a radius would be so nice.
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The Venev Gemini are the only rounded stones I have been able to find currently available. There are smaller diamond coated rods from Aliexpress but you would need to make your own guide rod or attachment method for them.
 
777 Edge 777 Edge B Bdtry

Thank you for both of your suggestions and insights. Is my skepticism that a magnetic table will securely hold a larger, heavier blade incorrect? Don't get me wrong, I would love for that to be the answer, as it would be better for my growing collection of pocket knives (all users).
 
theMachine said:
777 Edge 777 Edge B Bdtry

Thank you for both of your suggestions and insights. Is my skepticism that a magnetic table will securely hold a larger, heavier blade incorrect? Don't get me wrong, I would love for that to be the answer, as it would be better for my growing collection of pocket knives (all users).
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A magnetic table is not really meant to be used as a standalone fully secure platform, you should always stabilize it with one hand to secure any movement. It takes a little getting used to but it's easy enough to hold the knife secure with one hand while sharpening with the other. I normally change hands when I flip the blade over on a magnetic platform. What it does give you, is unrivaled versatility in what you can sharpen.
 
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