Triad Lock - Common Misconceptions & Merits

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Apr 3, 2007
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I've heard a couple of common misconceptions about Triad lock from less informed(to put it mildly) people on Bladeforums, Instagram or Youtube. I figured it would be nice to put a thread together to share my thoughts about them and discuss the merit of the Triad lock's design, which IMO is Cold Steel Knives Cold Steel Knives greatest asset, along with their Scorpion lock and other intellectual properties(IP).

Please note: The info-dump below is just my personal observations after years of using and comparing Cold Steel with other production knives. While I'm not a knife maker, I'm an engineer by training and I own & operate a large product line within a fortune 100 company. It's my day job to observe and analyze industry trends, take apart competitors, and identify product differentiators & competitive advantages. I'm also blessed to have more than $20K worth of PRODUCTION knives collection, ranging from $30 to $450 so I have the adequate sample size(150+ knives) to back my observations. Not trying plug myself shamelessly, just want to inject some credibilities to the data points below.

#1 - "Triad lock is just a back lock with an additional stop pin. It is basically backlock."

Contrary to popular beliefs, Triad lock isn’t "just" a lock back with additional stop pin. We already know the merit of the additional stop pin, which helps transfer the positive and negative load to the handle. But the stop pin isn't the only thing contributing to Triad exceptional static strength and impact resistance. In fact, it might not even be the primary reason for Triad lock's strength. The other key component is the design of the lockbar and the lock/blade tang geometry.

If you have taken apart a Triad lock before, you'll observe that the lockbar pivot is oval instead of round like a normal backlock, and has additional space for "slack". You'll also observe that the contact point between the Triad lock bar and the blade tang is angled in a way that forms a "hook"(<90 degree for the lockbar and the tang). This is where the true strength comes from.

The "hook" is hard to achieve with a normal backlock the way its lockbar pivoting around the lockbar axis. For normal backlock, the angle for the lockbar and the blade tang has to be at least 90 degree respectively, otherwise the lock will not engage, which means there's no "hook". The only way to achieve the "hook" is to give the lockbar ability to travel forward and back during the engagement and disengagement, in addition to rotating along the lockbar pivot. This is why Triad lockbar pivot is oval to provide space for the entire lockbar to travel forward and back achieving this "hook" geometry.

Describing Triad lock as a lockback with stop pin is over simplification and does not do it justice. The change in the lockbar range of motion via the oval hole and the contact angle is not visible, but has significant impact to the strength of the design. You'll never notice if you have never taken apart a triad lock before.

Here's a couple of pictures to help visualize this:
- The subtle "hook" is illustrated on #2 in the 1st picture. The 2nd picture of the American Lawman comparing to a normal backlock on the old school Manix provides a much better comparison of the negative "hook" angled
- The oval lockbar pivot is illustrated on #4 in the 1st picture that gives the lockbar ability to travel forward and back. Compare that to the lockbar pivot of the Manix's backlock on the 2nd picture.

Screen%20Shot%202020-05-21%20at%202.33.02%20PM.png


Triad+Lock+vs+Conventional.jpg


#2 - "All that strength makes Triad Lock knives heavy & bulky"

Another misconception that's commonly tossed around is that Triad lock knives are heavy and bulky because they are "unnecessarily strong". This argument usually comes from the "right tool for the job brooo!" or "you'll never going to need that strength!" or "you don't need a locking folder, i've used slip joint for 50 years!" or "get a fixed blade!" knife Karens. This argument is usually used when you tell them your CS knives are stronger than their expensive $450 fancy knife, in addition to the usual insult that CS fans are mall ninja, uneducated, Lynn Thompson-cult followers.

Cold Steel folders generally have great strength to weight ratio BECAUSE of the Triad lock. One of the key advantage of what make this lock so efficient is that it does not need metal liners to function unlike many other locks. Because of this, Triad lock knives CAN be made generally thinner and lighter than the competition. Broken Skull, code 4 and Air Lite are some good examples. It's hard to make knives this thin or light with other locks i.e. liner, frame, Axis or Compression and still be strong or functional.
Side note: IMO CS went overboard with the thinness of some models i.e. Code 4, Air Lite & Lawman.

This total lack of dependency to liners or handle materials for the lock to function is IMO one of the most overlooked advantage of Triad lock, and why it's such an efficient design. It can works well with solid piece of common "cheap" handle material i.e. plastic, aluminum or G10.

The design is also very scalable. You can make a 4” or a 13” folder out of this lock, and you can make the whole knife 0.3” thick overall and still have a strong knife. The strength scales very well with both the material choice and the thickness. If you have a thin plastic handle and want to make it stronger, you make it thicker. Or you can switch to g10 if you want to maintain the same thickness. Want even more strength? Add liners(aluminum, titanium or steel) for the level of strength you need. Want more extreme strength? Use solid titanium handle or vibranium and adamantium. Making the blade thicker also help make the lock stronger, because the blade is part of the lock. In contrast, thicker blade doesn't make framelock or compression lock stronger.

However, they key point is, Triad lock doesn't need any of the above enhancement to function and be strong, unlike linerlock, framelock, compression lock, axis lock or deadbolt lock(which tested very well in the recent lock test video). There are very few lock designs that can operate in this range of design parameters. The strength to weight ratio of triad is what enables this.

Now I do think that there's too many big, heavy and bulky CS folders. But it's by maker's choice and designer's preference, not the consequences of the Triad lock strength.

What other misconceptions have you heard about Triad Lock or Cold Steel in general?
 
Well thought out post. My only sample is an XL Voyager. Overall, I like it as a novelty. It's certainly strong, if comically oversized. I bought it as a bridge between my fixed blades and regular size folders. Its kind of a hard use beater that took over for my pocket bushman when I'm working in the yard without a belt knife.

My only complaint about the Tri Ad is that the additional strength of the stop pin, lock up, etc comes at a cost of seeming to make the knife handle overly long in order to be folded. The extra handle length does help in additional leverage, but at a certain point you are almost left with a hand and a half hilt sporting a 5.5" blade.

Its an aesthetics thing, really.

At the end of the day, I appreciate the lock from an engineering standpoint. However, academics aside, I find other lock designs to yield a better ratio of blade to handle when it comes to an edc. I will say that if I had to pick a folder that absolutely would not fail under the worst circumstances, a tri ad lock would most likely be my pick. However, I would go with a shorter, stouter, less fragile profile than my Voyager with a less flexible handle.

I will say that the strength of the lock is incredibly well designed.
 
Well thought out post. My only sample is an XL Voyager. Overall, I like it as a novelty. It's certainly strong, if comically oversized. I bought it as a bridge between my fixed blades and regular size folders. Its kind of a hard use beater that took over for my pocket bushman when I'm working in the yard without a belt knife.

My only complaint about the Tri Ad is that the additional strength of the stop pin, lock up, etc comes at a cost of seeming to make the knife handle overly long in order to be folded. The extra handle length does help in additional leverage, but at a certain point you are almost left with a hand and a half hilt sporting a 5.5" blade.

Its an aesthetics thing, really.

At the end of the day, I appreciate the lock from an engineering standpoint. However, academics aside, I find other lock designs to yield a better ratio of blade to handle when it comes to an edc. I will say that if I had to pick a folder that absolutely would not fail under the worst circumstances, a tri ad lock would most likely be my pick. However, I would go with a shorter, stouter, less fragile profile than my Voyager with a less flexible handle.

I will say that the strength of the lock is incredibly well designed.
The triad lock actually doesn’t require a longer handle than any other lock type folder. Reference the broken skull, which has a nearly equal blade to handle ratio and is very slim.

The downside to the triad lock is that it’s more difficult to disengage than other knife locks, generally. The upside is that it’s a self adjusting strong lock, which is important to me.
 
Just got an Air Lite in today, and was surprised to see that it is thinner than the Code 4 and GoldenEye. Also surprised how much smaller (shorter) it is than both of those, both open and closed, even though it's also a 3 1/2" blade.
 
Just got an Air Lite in today, and was surprised to see that it is thinner than the Code 4 and GoldenEye. Also surprised how much smaller (shorter) it is than both of those, both open and closed, even though it's also a 3 1/2" blade.
Airlite actually has a surprisingly good blade to handle ratio, which is close to the Benchmade Griptilian. It's all about the design of the tang and in this case the blade tang is shorter than other models.
Airlite is the perfect size for me and IMO the size is also the sweet spot in the market, since some of the most popular knife models are in this size range(7.75" to 8.25" range), including the Griptilian, Paramilitary 2, Manix 2, 940, XM18, ZT0562 & etc. I just wished the handle is thicker for better ergonomic.
 
The triad lock actually doesn’t require a longer handle than any other lock type folder. Reference the broken skull, which has a nearly equal blade to handle ratio and is very slim.

The downside to the triad lock is that it’s more difficult to disengage than other knife locks, generally. The upside is that it’s a self adjusting strong lock, which is important to me.

I think most of the Triad lock folder generally has worse blade to handle ratio(doesn't matter to me) than other lock design, especially compared to liner/frame lock or axis lock. The lock just need a longer blade tang to function. The bigger the lockbar cutout, the longer the tang becomes. I think it's getting better with some newer designs like the Airlite where Demko managed to have a deep log engagement while still shorten the blade than for better ratio.
The longer the knife becomes the less % of the overall length the blade tang takes up, so it's not an issue for knives like Broken Skull when it's already >9" overall. If you cut the broken skull to 8" and to maintain the same deep lockbar engagement, you overall blade:handle ratio will go down.
TBH the ratio doesn't seem to be an issue for many people, since one of the most popular premium knives in the market, the Spyderco PM2 and PM3 has some of the worst blade to handle ratio...
 
Airlite actually has a surprisingly good blade to handle ratio, which is close to the Benchmade Griptilian. It's all about the design of the tang and in this case the blade tang is shorter than other models.
Airlite is the perfect size for me and IMO the size is also the sweet spot in the market, since some of the most popular knife models are in this size range(7.75" to 8.25" range), including the Griptilian, Paramilitary 2, Manix 2, 940, XM18, ZT0562 & etc. I just wished the handle is thicker for better ergonomic.

Don't mind the thin-ness, but I wish there was more of a cutout to access the thumbstud. Saw one on the bay where someone contoured the scales a bit more and it looked pretty good.
 
The downside to the triad lock is that it’s more difficult to disengage than other knife locks, generally. The upside is that it’s a self adjusting strong lock, which is important to me.

I agree the biggest downside of the Triad lock is the difficulty to disengage. If Demko can find a way to modify the lockbar mechanism to allow for one hand disengagement, it'll be a holy grail design. Demko tried it before with the Tiger Claw karambit, but it didn't work out. I asked him on IG for more details, he mentioned(not in the exact words) that in order for this design to work, the spring tension has to be made too weak, which means the lock wont be strong. It's probably worth exploring further IMO.

22KFS__29770.1559085627.jpg
 
Don't mind the thin-ness, but I wish there was more of a cutout to access the thumbstud. Saw one on the bay where someone contoured the scales a bit more and it looked pretty good.
If they make the scale thicker, then they can add the cutout contouring like in the Ultimate Hunter without changing the handle shape.
 
Nicely presented and thought-out piece on the Tri-Ad, insta9ves. You even offered several design attributes that I hadn't considered. Well done!

I will add only that the Tri-Ad has spoiled me for just about every other locking mechanism. I don't trust any other lock as implicitly as I trust the Tri-Ad. And since that's important to me, it means that nine times out of ten I reach for a Cold Steel when deciding which folder to carry.


-Steve
 
Good read, well said. Many don't realize the long vs thin abilities of the lock and scaling up. A skinny G-10 XL Espada is far far stronger than a thick SR1.
 
Good read, well said. Many don't realize the long vs thin abilities of the lock and scaling up. A skinny G-10 XL Espada is far far stronger than a thick SR1.
Interesting... I always thought thicker blade & scale will make the lock much stronger. For the same size of blade tang and the depth of the lock engagement, wouldn't longer blade & handle increase the leverage/torque put on the lock? For example, an 8" overall length Broken Skull with the same handle thickness and overall width should be stronger than an 9.25" Broken Skull.
Unless we are talking about the size of the blade tang and the depth of the lock engagement increasing as the knife becomes longer.
 
Interesting... I always thought thicker blade & scale will make the lock much stronger. For the same size of blade tang and the depth of the lock engagement, wouldn't longer blade & handle increase the leverage/torque put on the lock? For example, an 8" overall length Broken Skull with the same handle thickness and overall width should be stronger than an 9.25" Broken Skull.
Unless we are talking about the size of the blade tang and the depth of the lock engagement increasing as the knife becomes longer.

Things get vertically larger. You can fit a larger diameter stop pin, more depth on the tang and lock bar, etc vertically. Maybe a bad analogy on my end., but I know that an XL Espada is stronger than just about anything else we make due to it's size.
 
Things get vertically larger. You can fit a larger diameter stop pin, more depth on the tang and lock bar, etc vertically. Maybe a bad analogy on my end., but I know that an XL Espada is stronger than just about anything else we make due to it's size.
Ah that makes sense! Yeah all component of triad lock scales and contribute the strength very well. Unlike framelock where thicker blade or bigger stop pin does nothing to the lock strength, not even with thicker handle/lockbar if they kept the same skinny-ass lockbar cutout(looking at you Medford).
 
Great thread. The only complaint I ever hear is the force required to disengage the lock. I understand, my wife and daughter do not like them for this reason, but it has never been a problem for me personally.
 
I have found that kind of wiggling the blade as I depress the lock helps it disengage.

I have to say, there really isn't much that can cause it to fail. Even massive shock to the blade doesn't seem to cause it to slip since you actually have to kind of coax it out of lock up anyway. Remarkably strong for sure.
 
For triad lock, the only mode of failure is either blade breaking near the weak point of the tang or pivot, or the front stop pin shearing off the handle.
The impact resistant of the “hook” is actually the best part of the design IMO.
 
Very good write-up which brings to focus design features and considerations that are overlooked by many.
 
Things get vertically larger. You can fit a larger diameter stop pin, more depth on the tang and lock bar, etc vertically. Maybe a bad analogy on my end., but I know that an XL Espada is stronger than just about anything else we make due to it's size.
Interesting. Never thought about it that way. I kinda assumed the 4-Max looked the toughest because of the beefiness. :D

Damn, now I want a Rajah 2.
 
I've heard a couple of common misconceptions about Triad lock from less informed(to put it mildly) people on Bladeforums, Instagram or Youtube. I figured it would be nice to put a thread together to share my thoughts about them and discuss the merit of the Triad lock's design, which IMO is Cold Steel Knives Cold Steel Knives greatest asset, along with their Scorpion lock and other intellectual properties(IP).

Please note: The info-dump below is just my personal observations after years of using and comparing Cold Steel with other production knives. While I'm not a knife maker, I'm an engineer by training and I own & operate a large product line within a fortune 100 company. It's my day job to observe and analyze industry trends, take apart competitors, and identify product differentiators & competitive advantages. I'm also blessed to have more than $20K worth of PRODUCTION knives collection, ranging from $30 to $450 so I have the adequate sample size(150+ knives) to back my observations. Not trying plug myself shamelessly, just want to inject some credibilities to the data points below.

#1 - "Triad lock is just a back lock with an additional stop pin. It is basically backlock."

Contrary to popular beliefs, Triad lock isn’t "just" a lock back with additional stop pin. We already know the merit of the additional stop pin, which helps transfer the positive and negative load to the handle. But the stop pin isn't the only thing contributing to Triad exceptional static strength and impact resistance. In fact, it might not even be the primary reason for Triad lock's strength. The other key component is the design of the lockbar and the lock/blade tang geometry.

If you have taken apart a Triad lock before, you'll observe that the lockbar pivot is oval instead of round like a normal backlock, and has additional space for "slack". You'll also observe that the contact point between the Triad lock bar and the blade tang is angled in a way that forms a "hook"(<90 degree for the lockbar and the tang). This is where the true strength comes from.

The "hook" is hard to achieve with a normal backlock the way its lockbar pivoting around the lockbar axis. For normal backlock, the angle for the lockbar and the blade tang has to be at least 90 degree respectively, otherwise the lock will not engage, which means there's no "hook". The only way to achieve the "hook" is to give the lockbar ability to travel forward and back during the engagement and disengagement, in addition to rotating along the lockbar pivot. This is why Triad lockbar pivot is oval to provide space for the entire lockbar to travel forward and back achieving this "hook" geometry.

Describing Triad lock as a lockback with stop pin is over simplification and does not do it justice. The change in the lockbar range of motion via the oval hole and the contact angle is not visible, but has significant impact to the strength of the design. You'll never notice if you have never taken apart a triad lock before.

Here's a couple of pictures to help visualize this:
- The subtle "hook" is illustrated on #2 in the 1st picture. The 2nd picture of the American Lawman comparing to a normal backlock on the old school Manix provides a much better comparison of the negative "hook" angled
- The oval lockbar pivot is illustrated on #4 in the 1st picture that gives the lockbar ability to travel forward and back. Compare that to the lockbar pivot of the Manix's backlock on the 2nd picture.

Screen%20Shot%202020-05-21%20at%202.33.02%20PM.png


Triad+Lock+vs+Conventional.jpg


#2 - "All that strength makes Triad Lock knives heavy & bulky"

Another misconception that's commonly tossed around is that Triad lock knives are heavy and bulky because they are "unnecessarily strong". This argument usually comes from the "right tool for the job brooo!" or "you'll never going to need that strength!" or "you don't need a locking folder, i've used slip joint for 50 years!" or "get a fixed blade!" knife Karens. This argument is usually used when you tell them your CS knives are stronger than their expensive $450 fancy knife, in addition to the usual insult that CS fans are mall ninja, uneducated, Lynn Thompson-cult followers.

Cold Steel folders generally have great strength to weight ratio BECAUSE of the Triad lock. One of the key advantage of what make this lock so efficient is that it does not need metal liners to function unlike many other locks. Because of this, Triad lock knives CAN be made generally thinner and lighter than the competition. Broken Skull, code 4 and Air Lite are some good examples. It's hard to make knives this thin or light with other locks i.e. liner, frame, Axis or Compression and still be strong or functional.
Side note: IMO CS went overboard with the thinness of some models i.e. Code 4, Air Lite & Lawman.

This total lack of dependency to liners or handle materials for the lock to function is IMO one of the most overlooked advantage of Triad lock, and why it's such an efficient design. It can works well with solid piece of common "cheap" handle material i.e. plastic, aluminum or G10.

The design is also very scalable. You can make a 4” or a 13” folder out of this lock, and you can make the whole knife 0.3” thick overall and still have a strong knife. The strength scales very well with both the material choice and the thickness. If you have a thin plastic handle and want to make it stronger, you make it thicker. Or you can switch to g10 if you want to maintain the same thickness. Want even more strength? Add liners(aluminum, titanium or steel) for the level of strength you need. Want more extreme strength? Use solid titanium handle or vibranium and adamantium. Making the blade thicker also help make the lock stronger, because the blade is part of the lock. In contrast, thicker blade doesn't make framelock or compression lock stronger.

However, they key point is, Triad lock doesn't need any of the above enhancement to function and be strong, unlike linerlock, framelock, compression lock, axis lock or deadbolt lock(which tested very well in the recent lock test video). There are very few lock designs that can operate in this range of design parameters. The strength to weight ratio of triad is what enables this.

Now I do think that there's too many big, heavy and bulky CS folders. But it's by maker's choice and designer's preference, not the consequences of the Triad lock strength.

What other misconceptions have you heard about Triad Lock or Cold Steel in general?
Good write-up man. The point about weight I agree with especially. Examples like the Code 4 (a fine EDC knife) and the Air Lite show us that a lightweight Tri-Ad knife is possible.

Honestly though, I don’t mind that my CS folders on average outweigh my Spydies. I can appreciate the heft. When I pick a CS folder up for the day, I’m looking for a workhorse and not a gentleman knife. And with solid jeans or 5.11 pants anyway, not even the Spartan will bog down your pants.
 
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