What is your dream KMG attachment?

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but since it is an enclosed unit it should snug up to alot of different grinders,right?
 
good luck Kelly! Id like to know how it works out. Cheers for the south side of Kamloops!
 
I've gotten a few emails asking when there MAP Arms will be shipped. I have been working on the MAP Arm exclusively for the last 6 monthes and had to cancel one show already because of it. ( Im NOT complaining, just explaining)As most of you know the Chicago Custom Knife show is Friday and Saturday and as of Monday ( 3 days ago) I had one knife for my table. I had to get something for the show done and as a result of that I didnt get as many MAP Arms assembled and shipped as I was hoping.

Starting Monday after the Chicago show, I will be working to get every one of the Ams that you all have been waiting for shipped. Im hoping to be able to get that acomplished by next weekend. (9/16)

I am gratefull to everyone that bought a MAP Arm and I really tried to get them all shipped by now but I just couldnt do it. I have had a table reserved for the Chicago show since last year and I really couldnt cancel this table so I had to spend some time making knives. I hope everyone understands that and that you can all be patient a little longer.

Thanks
Michael
 
Knives are what this is all about.

Sorry I'm gonna miss this show but Ashokan called out to me.

Syn
 
WARNING!!!
WHEN YOU PUT THE MAP ARM IN THE RECIEVER, MAKE SURE THE WELDED NUTS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!

IF THE WELDED NUTS ARE ON THE LEFT SIDE, WHEN ANY WEIGHT IS APPLIED TO THE TABLE, THE BOLTS WILL LOOSEN AND THE TABLE WILL DROP! IF THE NUTS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE, THE TABLE WILL GET TIGHTER THE MORE DOWNWARD PRESSURE IS APPLIED

PLEASE Do Not Use The Map Arm With The Welded Nuts On The LEFT SIDE!
It Is Designed To Be Used With The Welded Nuts On The RIGHT. It Does Make A Big Difference!

I Dont Want To See Anyone Get Hurt So Please Make Sure The Welded Nuts Are On The Right Side Only!!!!!

Thanks

Michael
www.adammichaelknives.com
 
In other words, the big bolts that you tighten have to be on the left side. Put your wrench in your left hand. Lift the table to the approximate position you want and hold it with your right hand. Tighten the big bolts with the wrench in your left hand by turning counterclockwise. Make final adjustments to the table and tighten the socket head screw on the end of the arm.

When you need to change belt grits, just loosen the arm, pull it out a bit and change your belt. Don't move the table angle to change belts.

It quickly becomes second nature. Define your goal before you start moving stuff around and soon you will know just what to move, where, and when. Perhaps the first few times it might be best to have the AC/DC or Iron Maiden playing at reduced volume so all the brain cells get a fair chance to fire. ;) :D
 
I does make a big difference. Don't ask how I know :)
Michael, do you think if I put a quick clamp instead of hex socket screw(that clamps the round bar)? Will quick clamp get in a way or it should be fine?
It would be nice to make adjustment totally "wrench free".
 
fitzo said:
In other words, the big bolts that you tighten have to be on the left side. Put your wrench in your left hand. Lift the table to the approximate position you want and hold it with your right hand. Tighten the big bolts with the wrench in your left hand by turning counterclockwise. Make final adjustments to the table and tighten the socket head screw on the end of the arm.

When you need to change belt grits, just loosen the arm, pull it out a bit and change your belt. Don't move the table angle to change belts.

It quickly becomes second nature. Define your goal before you start moving stuff around and soon you will know just what to move, where, and when. Perhaps the first few times it might be best to have the AC/DC or Iron Maiden playing at reduced volume so all the brain cells get a fair chance to fire. ;) :D
Click to expand...

Very well said, Michael. Thanks
 
alexmin said:
I does make a big difference. Don't ask how I know :)
Michael, do you think if I put a quick clamp instead of hex socket screw(that clamps the round bar)? Will quick clamp get in a way or it should be fine?
It would be nice to make adjustment totally "wrench free".
Click to expand...

GEt a handle from MSC like the ones used on the reciever. The handle will be below the bar and wont get in the way. it is a 3/8-16 thread, 1.5" long.
Michael
 
Michael,
is it any way I can make other two other bolts "wrench less"? I don't think they sell any type of quick clamps for acme thread.

Thanks,
Alex
 
Michael, I hope you don't mind me commenting:

When figuring out how to build this, the need for the two left handed bolts became obvious. It was a very bright solution to a problem that showed up in development, and I was most impressed with Michael's insight. LH threaded bolts and the LH tapping would have substantially increased the cost, so making the bolts from acme rod and nuts was done to maintain cost threshold. Handles were considered, but, once again, cost is high and many people might be willing to use a wrench if it made the difference between having one and not. There are numerous solutions to handles and the user can always add his own. One important consideration is that this actually tightens as weight/force is added to the table. So, if you put something heavy on the table or lean in it, it will tighten. Put too short a handle on these, and you will have a harder time loosening them. After using mine awhile, I decided to stick with a large 7/8" offset box wrench.

You could have bent rods welded to the bolts. You could drill and tap the "bolt head", thread rod, and make handles to your spec. A quick solution I use around the shop is to buy cheap box/open wrenches (angled head on the box end), then cut the open end off and discard it. You can then use an adhesive to glue the wrench onto the nut or even have it welded on. Works great.

One thing to pay close attention to when adding handles: position them so they won't run into each other when you are loosening or tightening them. This is an easy way to cause yourself problems if you aren't using your noodle when you make them permanent.

Hope that helps.
 
There is nothing I can add to that, again, very well said. Thanks Michael.

fitzo said:
Michael, I hope you don't mind me commenting:

When figuring out how to build this, the need for the two left handed bolts became obvious. It was a very bright solution to a problem that showed up in development, and I was most impressed with Michael's insight. LH threaded bolts and the LH tapping would have substantially increased the cost, so making the bolts from acme rod and bolts was done to maintain cost threshold. Handles were considered, but, once again, cost is high and many people might be willing to use a wrench if it made the difference between having one and not. There are numerous solutions to handles and the user can always add his own. One important consideration is that this actually tightens as weight/force is added to the table. So, if you put something heavy on the table or lean in it, it will tighten. Put too short a handle on these, and you will have a harder time loosening them. After using mine awhile, I decided to stick with a large 7/8" offset box wrench.

You could have bent rods welded to the bolts. You could drill and tap the "bolt head", thread rod, and make handles to your spec. A quick solution I use around the shop is to buy cheap box/open wrenches (angled head on the box end), then cut the open end off and discard it. You can then use an adhesive to glue the wrench onto the nut or even have it welded on. Works great.

One thing to pay close attention to when adding handles: position them so they won't run into each other when you are loosening or tightening them. This is an easy way to cause yourself problems if you aren't using your noodle when you make them permanent.

Hope that helps.
Click to expand...
 
Awendaw, SC, Dallas, TX, Killeen Texas, East Norriton, PA, Sunnyvale, Ca, Cumming, GA, Prescott, AZ, St. Louis, Mo, Canyon Lake, TX, Nashville, TN, Los Gatos, Ca, Grand Rapids Michigan, some where else, MA, cridersville, ohio.
Ready or not, there on the way!
cartwheel.gif


Michael
www.adammichaelknives.com
 
Mike I finally got around today to gettting my MAP arm installed on my KMG as it should be and with great excitement! It went on like nothing to it, everything works as expected and its everything you said it was. Perhaps more really because this really adds a lot to the machine in my opinion. Also and just my thoughts here personally, I feel like it was a steal at what you charged all us that got one of these for the obvious man hours and thought you put into it. Thanks so much!

I'm sure over time that I will become quite attatched to it and wonder how I got by without it before.

STR
 
adammichael said:
Awendaw, SC, Dallas, TX, Killeen Texas, East Norriton, PA, Sunnyvale, Ca, Cumming, GA, Prescott, AZ, St. Louis, Mo, Canyon Lake, TX, Nashville, TN, Los Gatos, Ca, Grand Rapids Michigan, some where else, MA, cridersville, ohio.
Ready or not, there on the way!
cartwheel.gif


Michael
www.adammichaelknives.com
Click to expand...

Mesa, AZ. . . Mesa, AZ. . . Mesa, AZ. . . Mesa, AZ. . . Mesa, AZ. . . Mesa, AZ. . . :)
 
Got mine yesterday (Hudson, MA). Even a complete mechanical klutz like me can install it alone in only an hour and a half :eek:

Used it a bit today. It'll take a little while before the adjustments are automatic but I can already tell that I'm gonna love it!
 
Mine is going to Grand Rapids Michigan and is not there yet. Only two more days for it to arrive or I've got problems.
Steve
 
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