26C3 Carbon Steel - Spicy White

Many of us HT everything in an oven. That is a non-factor in decisions about steel type. The benefit of a steel like this is that you might want a hamon or you just might want to use a fine grain carbon steel.
kmf600 said:
Can I ask an honest question? What is the benefit in using this steel? If you have to heat treat it in an oven anyway, why not use stainless?
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We have more thicknesses of 26C3 coming.
PEU said:
Is it possible to place an order and pick it up at Bladeshow?
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We will not have any blade steel at our booth during Blade Show. There will be people back at the shop processing materials and shipping orders. We are happy to ship the steel to you.

Chuck
 
I think Mr. Erickson is right. I struggle with hamons, but this is evident straight out of the "fire".
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Alpha Knife Supply said:
We have more thicknesses of 26C3 coming.
We will not have any blade steel at our booth during Blade Show. There will be people back at the shop processing materials and shipping orders. We are happy to ship the steel to you.

Chuck
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Thanks Chuck, spoke with Jessica today, my order is shipped. meet you there!


Pablo
 
Add to that Uddeholm's semi-legendary quality control. I wouldn't be real worried about a bad batch with this stuff.
jdm61 said:
Many of us HT everything in an oven. That is a non-factor in decisions about steel type. The benefit of a steel like this is that you might want a hamon or you just might want to use a fine grain carbon steel.
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kmf600 said:
Copy
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People have been talking about getting it from BESTAR along with some O2 for Damascus. The guy who used to be at Boehler-Uddeholm Strip went to work for those guys.
Justin Schmidt said:
After getting some advice from trey on forging thinner stock I picked up some .150x2 pieces to test out. Really looking forward to this.
Would LOVE to get some 1.2519 :D
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jdm61 said:
People have been talking about getting it from BESTAR along with some O2 for Damascus. The guy who used to be at Boehler-Uddeholm Strip went to work for those guys.
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I contacted Jeff Sinko a bit over a year ago in 1.2519 and couldnt afford the sheet if 1.2519 he had available. I passed info on to my friend Joe anand he has been using 1.2519 for san mai kitchen knives the past 2 years with rave reviews. When I saw the 26c3 info on IG I emailed them and forwarded the email to Jess this time in hope AKS would stock this stuff for us.
-Trey
 
If you have had issues trying for hamons like me, give this stuff a try.
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Two minute soak in FC and sprayed off a bit. I haven't even started to bring it out to its full potential.
If you are going to hand sand this stuff, you better bring your A-game.
Oh, by the way, this is forge ht'ed as my kiln was being rewired yesterday. 10 minutes is a lot of hand pumping.
From AKS it cut and drilled like butter, and was easy to grind pre-heat treat. Post heat treat, that is another story.
 
Hmm. easy hamons are inspiring...

My understanding of this stuff is limited, but I'm going to try to ask a vaguely informed question:

If this stuff requires a long soak, presumably due to the high carbon content (other reason?), what is to prevent grain growth vs. something like O1, that has some Vanadium? The other elements don't look like grain-boundary uh... defenders? Does that make it a more exacting material to forge safely and HT properly than O1 (for instance)? I prefer to do O1 in a furnace for the required soak time anyway, but was also imagining playing with something like this in my forge for funsies. (I only do stock removal, but could HT in the forge)
 
Chuck, is there a proper data sheet for this steel? google returned none. Thanks


Pablo
 
daizee said:
If this stuff requires a long soak,
, what is to prevent grain growth
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I come from the school where I heat this type of steel (Hitachi white) without a soak... and it works perfectly fine...

I just did it with this san mai with the 26C3 core

I believe grain growth is a function of higher temperatures...?

regards

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I made two knives and two coupons with the .078" 26C3 this weekend. Both blades are chef knives and one is differentially hardened. I took one blade and coupon direct to 1475f and quenched in Parks 50. The other blade and coupon, I processed using the normalization routine that I do for W2 and then austenized at 1475f and quenched in the Parks. Both tested at 67 post quench. I broke each coupon in two places, and with a low power loop and my naked eye, the one that had been normalized seemed to be a tad finer in structure. I will test again post temper. So far, I am impressed with the steel and look forward to putting a knife in use.
 
daizee said:
Hmm. easy hamons are inspiring...

My understanding of this stuff is limited, but I'm going to try to ask a vaguely informed question:

If this stuff requires a long soak, presumably due to the high carbon content (other reason?), what is to prevent grain growth vs. something like O1, that has some Vanadium? The other elements don't look like grain-boundary uh... defenders? Does that make it a more exacting material to forge safely and HT properly than O1 (for instance)? I prefer to do O1 in a furnace for the required soak time anyway, but was also imagining playing with something like this in my forge for funsies. (I only do stock removal, but could HT in the forge)
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You shouldn’t get any grain growth with the low austenizing temps required to heat treat this steel. It’s usually associated with the much higher temps. I think it’s calling for a soak at 1475.
 
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