Alright, I give up - YOU decide

Vote now, or forever hold your peace

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Samael

Samael

Joined
Sep 30, 2007
Messages
20,235
OK, so I've got this really nice hunk of stabilized buckeye burl:

picture.php


And it's gonna be a Randall, but I haven't decided which one yet. It's a big block of wood; I'll have to cut it down some no matter what I decide, so that's not an issue.

I've narrowed it down to three choices, and I'm gonna let you vote on which one I go with:

1) 5-6, carbon steel, N/S single hilt, single finger grip, aluminum/black spacers, rounded N/S butt cap.

2) 12-8, carbon steel, N/S double forward-curved hilt, single finger grip, aluminum/black spacers, rounded N/S butt cap.

3) 12-8, stainless, same as the above but with a commando handle and a squared butt cap.

You pick. But be sure to give me your reasons for your choice.

Edit: All of the above involve five options. I'm aware that there's a fairly significant price difference between a 5 and a 12; it's not a factor. And the knife won't be a "user."
 
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Well, now that you asked - none of the above, sorry.

I'd say with a NS end cap, go with a Model #25-6. Then you can have a SS blade (thumb notches on the blade spine for free), NS hilt, metal spacers (for free), your Customer Supplied (CS) handle material, rounded NS end cap, 'and' a lanyard hole too.

The best part is not only would you (probably) have a one of a kind RMK, but you'd also have enough wood left over to make a nifty matching bolo tie... ;)

Shel

p.s. Don't forget the custom sheath - and, being that Greg G. Sr. likes both wooden and western things; if you don't like the looks of the tie, ya may be able to use it to get a discount on the sheath... :cool:
 
I would have to agree with the 25-6. If it has to be a 12 how about a 12-9 14 grind.
 
There's a reason why there were only three choices. FAIL.

Shel, I'm set for 25-6s, don't need another one.
 
CTD, good choice too. Arden, the CC is a really light knife; in part because of the short blade length, but more importantly because so much metal is removed to make the (almost) full length swedge. I've had two CC's with NS end caps and both were extremely 'butt heavy'...
 
Hmmm, ok, well then, how about - 'None of the above' :D
 
So noted. Thanks for your input and have a nice day!:)

(And by the way, Sheldon, I know that, when I get the knife, you'll be the first one to drool all over your keyboard over it, so you're not fooling me.)
 
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Here's another (much better) photo. The top block is the one I'm talking about. The bottom left piece of buckeye will be a 23 in N/S eventually, and the bottom right piece of spalted maple will be an 11-4.

picture.php
 
Ok bucko, ya want a serious answer? Model #12-8's, in my opinion are the 'baddest assed' of all bad-ass Randall knives - and such a knife would lend itself well to your 'wood'...

SS/NS FCH/MS/CS/NS...and a custom sheath. Did I miss something? Does the SFG and CS count as two options? I think not...maybe DW can shed some light on this... :confused:

Drooling in anticipation, I remain,

Shel
 
Yep, "bucko," CS and SFG are separate options. Fortunately, on a 12, FCH isn't (or isn't "chargeable," at least).
 
Kinda funny - there have been a whole slew of "registered users" drifting through this thread from time to time, and I'm sure they have to be reading this and scratching their heads saying "WTF?"

Yes, folks, you can call Randalls "production knives" til you're blue in the face, but you'll never get into this degree of customization with a Benchmade or a Spyderco.

And that's the way it is. :p
 
If you go with a 12-8" I would make sure you have a Nickel silver butt cap. The wood is very light and the cap will bring more balance. My choice on that would be #3. Still would be an everyday user but would balance and look functional.
 
A: Just who the heck is this 'Spaceport' guy, and...

B: You're kinda screwed with this whole 'Five option' thang, and...

C: Are ya sure you don't want to send your 'wood' over to a real custom knife maker; someone like, say, Busse Combat?

Shel

p.s. If you're stuck on RMK, have you considered a Model #21? Then you'd have enough wood left over for a matching coaster set...I'm just sayin'

p.p.s. If you used a RMK supplied handle material, you could use your 'wood' to make a pipe - then you could smoke (out of) it, bro... ;)
 
Ah, the "five option thing." Yeah, it stinks. Most of the time it's not a problem, but when you want to really do a knife right, you end up beating your head against that wall pretty quickly. Oh well, everybody's in the same boat, so I guess I shouldn't complain. Too much.
 
LOL! Yeah, you're sure right about that part. Sorry about the Busse comment too, I just couldn't resist... :D
 
Just as a curiosity, those are some nice sized pieces of wood to be stabilized, where did you get them? In the past I have not found anything larger that 5x3x3 or around that size. Could be that I am looking in all the wrong places. thanks and good luck with your project. BTW with the Buckeye burl I think they are all nice choices and I would just choose the one that I think would polish up the best, probably one of the carbon models, so that you would get a nice accent to go with the burl. IMHO
Thanks for your time
 
Aetrox said:
Just as a curiosity, those are some nice sized pieces of wood to be stabilized, where did you get them?
Click to expand...

All of them came from a member here who goes by the name of "BurlSource." He comes up with some really nice stuff on occasion.
 
I voted for option #3 because I like the commando shape handles and believe it will show off the wood best.

Dan in Kalifornia
 
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