Andy - I CHOOSE YOU!

Rotte said:
OK, You are going to have to help me out here. I nearly failed quantum...think the professor had some sympathy for me (and I was handy in the lab). But never in my ignominious physics career did I learn to equate visual with quantum.

In fact, I believe that quantum leads us to believe that if you pin it down long enough to see it, you don't understand the rest of it. You have to take somethings on faith. The quantum of steel says: The probability that Andy is going to knock this blade out of the lowest energy state and produce something capable of emitting stunning photons approaches 1.0. That's all you need to know.

I preferred my string theory--anything can be made fast with enough 550 cord. :D
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Oh -- visualization is VERY helpful in QM. Picturing probability curves, wave functions, expectation values, forces and energies ... much better than simply trudging through the math. Even Feynman Diagrams are pictures, after all.

Symmetry. A fabulous way to short-cut a lot of mathematics, but only if you really understand it ... which often involves visualization.

OK, sometimes the images are in more than 3 dimensions. But I guarantee it's still better than sloshing through endless integrals and tensor calculations.
 
Talfuchre said:
Okay Andy - back on topic:

I want to blend these two knives:

tank103_0983-vi.jpg


I want the handle from the top one and the blade from scandi lady finger.

1) Blade thickness - around .150 (don't sweat that detail too much - your stock runs about that).

2) Blade height - around .900 (give or take - this will likely match your lady finger blade height) give or take - but not too wide - I want the spear point to be natural and good for drilling when needed - think spear point of the BRKT Aurora.

3) Blade length - around 3.900 - nothing over four inches for sure - I want it to be legal in most places.

4) Handle Length and OAL - Around the specs of your Bushcrafter - it measures at 8.400 in OAL - 4.600 in handle and 3.900 in blade (around there).

5) Thumb jimping - if it is not a PITA - or make it an option for others...

6) Mosaic front pin - one bulls eye lanyard tube - color to contrast handle material - this can be optional as well.

7) Dual wood material, but chosen for their durability over all. A stabilized wood or a hard wood like Ironwood.

8) Make sure the transition from the scales to the ricasso is non abtrusive. I think your Woodcraft knife may be fine - just take into consideration that most bushcrafters are choked up on to allow for fine work - and the thumb and fingers need to be able to grasp the flat of the blade without being uncomfortable.

9) Also I want you to flare the butt end of it slightly to prevent from slipping off the handle (if you can make that look right) like the BRKT Aurora handle has. You current bushcrafter has a .735 handle width at the ass end - I am thinking around .800.


10) Scandi Grind where the bottom of the blade is straight and long, not curved. Look at Kosters Bushcraft edge:

KostersBladeandSheath004.jpg


See how from the Ricossa to the point where it sweeps up in to the spear point it is flat. Rounded stock make for a transition doing fine work that is not as comfortable as with a flatter grind. Your blade on top in the picture at the top of this post is a perfect flat ground blade into the sweep. Make the blade not so tall and a spear point - and you have what I have in mind.


TF
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:thumbup::thumbup:

False edge on the penetrator tip? (I'd go with a false edge vs. sharpened, just for legality reasons.)
 
Wow, I know I haven't been around much, and I am kicking myself for not seeing this earlier.

Talfuchre said:
Okay Andy - back on topic:

I want to blend these two knives:

tank103_0983-vi.jpg


I want the handle from the top one and the blade from scandi lady finger.

1) Blade thickness - around .150 (don't sweat that detail too much - your stock runs about that).

2) Blade height - around .900 (give or take - this will likely match your lady finger blade height) give or take - but not too wide - I want the spear point to be natural and good for drilling when needed - think spear point of the BRKT Aurora.

3) Blade length - around 3.900 - nothing over four inches for sure - I want it to be legal in most places.

4) Handle Length and OAL - Around the specs of your Bushcrafter - it measures at 8.400 in OAL - 4.600 in handle and 3.900 in blade (around there).

5) Thumb jimping - if it is not a PITA - or make it an option for others...

6) Mosaic front pin - one bulls eye lanyard tube - color to contrast handle material - this can be optional as well.

7) Dual wood material, but chosen for their durability over all. A stabilized wood or a hard wood like Ironwood.

8) Make sure the transition from the scales to the ricasso is non abtrusive. I think your Woodcraft knife may be fine - just take into consideration that most bushcrafters are choked up on to allow for fine work - and the thumb and fingers need to be able to grasp the flat of the blade without being uncomfortable.

9) Also I want you to flare the butt end of it slightly to prevent from slipping off the handle (if you can make that look right) like the BRKT Aurora handle has. You current bushcrafter has a .735 handle width at the ass end - I am thinking around .800.


10) Scandi Grind where the bottom of the blade is straight and long, not curved. Look at Kosters Bushcraft edge:

KostersBladeandSheath004.jpg


See how from the Ricossa to the point where it sweeps up in to the spear point it is flat. Rounded stock make for a transition doing fine work that is not as comfortable as with a flatter grind. Your blade on top in the picture at the top of this post is a perfect flat ground blade into the sweep. Make the blade not so tall and a spear point - and you have what I have in mind.


TF
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J, you a picky SOB, but that sounds perfect to me!

I haven't read the whole thread; but Andy, if you have room for another order on this I would love 1! Maybe in Natural Canvas Micarta over black micarta. Let me know bro!

Oh and Pretty please:)
 
Thanks Andy! Just let me know when you want some cash bro!

I am pumped that you are doing Scandi's!
 
Talfuchre said:
As was stated in the 1500's by Galileo, you cannot ask this question of a scientist. The Final Cause (purpose) of any object cannot be asked by a person that merely uses observation.

Scientists can tell you THAT something happens by observing it, but cannot tell you WHY something happens by observing it.

So - do things fall? Yes.

Why? Gravity.

Why Gravity? Do you mean to ask me why larger objects simply cause the warping of space/time?

Yes. I have no idea, it simply does.

This is why we have philosophy. To make the conjectures as to why things happen, largely absent of observation, and then allow scientists to make the observations to see if their theorems are supported.

These questions, first principles, can only be answered by the philosophic.


This is why String theory is a philosophic idea, those strings, if they exist, are so small that you cannot observe them, if you cannot observe them, you cannot say you have scientifically confirmed their existence.

Of course, we knew this, the scientific method itself cannot be observed (examples of it can, but not the method itself) and thus the basis for science (that things are as they seem) is unobservable. How could we confirm that things are not as they seem, we have no capability for that.

So, to finish, ask the Physicist IF gravity moves things and how - but don't as him WHY - he isn't qualified to answer that - unless he uses philosophic tools that may or may not be in his tool box. There must be a symbiosis between scientists and philosophers... lord knows I am not smart enough to do the calculations that Physicists do! ;)

TF
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Jason - put the big book with the funny pictures back on the shelf and go work on my sheaths. They will be much more theraputic and your head won't hurt as much.

:p

Do we have any idea of a price point at this time? Or do I just send one arm to Andy and the other to you and we're good? ;)
 
JESUS! I'm frustrated with this design after drawing and re-drawing for hours last night.

The Ladyfinger blade is a drop point and its 1" wide edge to spine. You want a blade that is 0.9" wide and spear point. So there isn't really much similarity there at all. The Bushcrafter has a handle that is 1 3/8" wide at the guard. When you put a 0.9" wide blade on a 1 3/8" wide handle it looks horrible. Even when I change the handle shape to blend the two, it looks like a hot chick with cankles. No drawing had sex appeal.

I think what we need to do is design a spear point bushcrafting knife with its own handle. But then I run into the damn thing looking just like an Aurora, with the flare at the butt end and everything.

So, tonight I'm back at it. I'll grind a model from a paint stirrer today so you can see what I'm talking about when I try to put that skinney blade on a wide handle.
 
Andy - here is what I have noticed - if you make the handle taller it fills your hand better - however - with this design - I wondered if you would run into this problem.

I have your bushcrafter in my hand to suggest these changes - i think it would work.

Make the slightly taller (to make it blend right) and then make the scales wider to fill out the hand. I have loved your designs, but in terms of the handle - they were not hand filling enough until I handled your current bushcrafter.

So - draw this up to make some changes:

1) Make the blade a little taller too - make it .950 or even .975 at the ricossa.

2) This should allow you to then make the handle something like 1.250 or a little less (1.150) to make this work. Slight tweaks - but I think with the wider scales it would work.

3) To get away from the Aurora look (I mean we could just buy one of those if we wanted one - but we want Fiddleback goodness) - drop the butt flares and drop the hook (at the end of the palm - pinky side) just a little more. This would provide a hook for the hand that would do the same as the flare I think. You would need to make sure the handle was over 4.500 inches long from handle scales at the ricasso to the butt. I am thinking you would add some - 4.600 handle length to make for this change.

EDIT:

I talked to Andy on the phone just now to explain these changes - I am excited to see what he comes up with.

TF
 
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Haha, it's gonna be worth it in the end Andy, this knife is gonna be sweet!
 
Nada. Lily has the flu they say. Makes things tight. Today is a waste. 14 knives downstairs ready to mark, and no time to go get it done.
 
Fiddleback said:
Nada. Lily has the flu they say. Makes things tight. Today is a waste. 14 knives downstairs ready to mark, and no time to go get it done.
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No worries. I don;t think any of us are in a hurry, I was just curious if you had worked anything out. I'm excited to see the first prototype.

Hope Lily get's better too! Flu is no fun!
 
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