Recommendation? Anvil Stand (wooden) - Poll

Which Wooden Stand Design Do you Prefer

  • Option A - Hollow

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Option B - Staggered 2x12s

    Votes: 3 14.3%

  • Option C - Stacked 2x4s

    Votes: 2 9.5%

  • Option D - 4x4s on end

    Votes: 16 76.2%

  • Other - Please Post a Pic!

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    21
Looks very nice. I also see what appears to be a very tall anvil face. Normally, the anvil face is between the knuckles and the wrist of your open hand hanging down by your side.

Javand,
Thanks for the clarification. Yes a 1" plate top and three heavy legs would be stable and rigid. I completely agree that most forging problems are the anvil mount, not the anvil. I have forged hundreds of knives on a 75# Vulcan with no issues. It is chained to a 400# flat anvil as the base. Just yesterday I took it off and mounted a 168# Hay Budden in its place … and it feels the same under the hammer as the one half its weight. Before the flat anvil base, I used a 16" round piece of oak put 24" in the ground. I forget what it weighed, but it was probably 200# or more.
 
So It looks like my face is pretty square/flat "longways". But on the 4'' dimension it has a crest in the center.

Was it designed this way or was it perfectly flat when new? (My hunch is perfectly flat...)

What do yall suggest? Getting a local machine shop to mill the face flat? Or is there a at home method that is effective? There are also some pretty deep gouges from years of abuse... probably with cold steel.

This is what I'm talking about:

 
What do yall suggest? Getting a local machine shop to mill the face flat? Or is there a at home method that is effective? There are also some pretty deep gouges from years of abuse... probably with cold steel.
This is what I'm talking about:
Click to expand...
NO!! NO!! HELL NO !!!
Thats extremely nice anvil as it is.
Only the most otherwise worthless totally beat, bent & chunks missing anvils should be considered for machineshop refurbishing. If anything, a dose of flapwheel is all one should do to most anvils especially example nice as yours.
Dynamics of hand forging, slight crown or swayback is actually desired.
If you need to better flatten something afterward, do it on a press of some kind.
Anvils are not supposed to be a highly flat surface anyway.
 
Lieblad said:
NO!! NO!! HELL NO !!!
Thats extremely nice anvil as it is.
Only the most otherwise worthless totally beat, bent & chunks missing anvils should be considered for machineshop refurbishing. If anything, a dose of flapwheel is all one should do to most anvils especially example nice as yours.
Dynamics of hand forging, slight crown or swayback is actually desired.
If you need to better flatten something afterward, do it on a press of some kind.
Anvils are not supposed to be a highly flat surface anyway.
Click to expand...

Thanks. This is why I made sure to ask! Didn't wan't to screw up a good thing.
 
A slight crown is good, a saddle or concave, is bad. Don't F with the face, it's very good as is, and probably dressed by someone that knew what they were doing.


Over time, you may decide you want it a little different, but you won't know how until you're very experienced at forging.



There's no reason to put that anvil on stall mat. Either between the anvil and base, or the base and floor. The wood is more that enough cushion/vibration dampener. Stall mat is debatably useful with steel bases and no wood. I'm a big proponent of them under smaller power hammers (100lb and under), but I think it's counterproductive for anvils. You wont be able to see a difference though from a ball drop rebound test.
 
Yeah your face is in very good condition IMO. I would use it as is. Use it right and it will easily outlast you. Don’t hammer cold steel on it and don’t bash it with punches or sledges and you’ll be fine
 
Got some wheels on it. I found that the "handles" I planned to add are not necessary. By holding the anvil itself this things rolls around just fine. Kinda like a hand dolly.

 
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