Axe steel choices, why are most low carbon?

I haven't got much knowledge about axes, and I don't know much about metals, and what little that I do know may be wrong.

Carbon adds rigidity and hardness, which improves edge retention but reduces resistance to shock. Softer metal absorbs shock better, but it has poorer edge retention.

Axes are not cutting tools like knives. Axes are impact tools intended for chipping and splitting, therefore shock absorption is way more important for an axe than holding a sharp edge.

This is why softer metal is better for axes.





...but I could very well be completely full of :poop:.
 
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sodak said:
Which is why cast iron is so strong in compression, the graphite can absorb/withstand compressive forces, such as in an engine block.
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Just a quick clarifier here, the piston stroke compresses air/fuel, but the engine cylinder is actually experiencing tension, especially on the power stroke.
 
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Axes are to be used for many different jobs, not just for "impact tools intended for chipping and splitting" "Softer metal is better for axes" Wrong in a lot of the cases. Just to name a few of the diverse use of axes--Felling, Bucking, Limbing, Splitting, Hewing, Log Home Corner Notching and Mortise/ Tennon Construction, Butchering, Wildfire and House Fire Fighting, Grubbing Roots, Sod House Construction, Woodcarving (bowels, spoons, shoes, etc.), Cooperage, Combat, on and on.

Each of the tasks listed above require different things from the metal used, and the construction of the axe.

"Axes are not cutting tools like knives" If you believe that, you are on the wrong Forum.

The axe is the Human Animal's first construction tool in my opinion, and deserves more respect.
 
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Sid Post said:
I actually find the ~$35USD Stihl branded Ochsenkopf small axes to be very good values and hold up well to my normal uses for them such as light splitting for my BBQ smoker and cutting ~5cm/2" trees that aren't too flexible.
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I bit of an old thread, but wanted to echo this...
I was at a local rental place; (Bobcats, trailers, power tools, party tents, you name it), and they also sell certain things, including Stihl equipment. While waiting in line I saw the Stihl axes at the counter, and had no idea Stihl had axes, and assuming they weren't actually making their own, I pulled out the old phone and did a quick Google search. Finding that Stihl axes were actually made by Ochsenkopf, when I finally got to the counter, I grabbed one of the small hatchets to keep under the seat in my truck, and I gotta say, it's done it's job as a little camp tool.
Considering it also has a lifetime warranty, and a local brick and mortar store I can go to to make any warranty claims, (including a new handle I'd needed), for $33+tax, so far I have not been disappointed in the slightest...
 
fyi - boker has this 1095 appalachian axe - for only around $75 with 19.5" oal - have any of you used one??
tbh, I think 1095 is too far, my pref would be 80crv2 ; )
boeker-plus-appalachian-axe-big-09bo255.jpg
 
EngrSorenson said:
Weird how they call it Appalachian, but it looks like a distinctly German hatchet…
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In a certain sense it SORT of makes sense. Historically American axes (and scythes) faced foreign competition from Sweden (which were cheap, but good) and Austria (just cheap) and while Austrian forged tools were typically made to mimic (after a vague fashion, at least) American patterns of those tools, some Germanic pattern tools did get imported to various areas. But not only is that a contrivance, but I doubt they thought about it that much. :D
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
In a certain sense it SORT of makes sense. Historically American axes (and scythes) faced foreign competition from Sweden (which were cheap, but good) and Austria (just cheap) and while Austrian forged tools were typically made to mimic (after a vague fashion, at least) American patterns of those tools, some Germanic pattern tools did get imported to various areas. But not only is that a contrivance, but I doubt they thought about it that much. :D
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I’m sure someone in Solingen is reading this, snapping their fingers, going, “yeah… yeah, that’s it… that’s the ticket…” 🤣

In all seriousness, and I think to your point, it’s equally valid to say that we don’t really know what an “Appalachian Hatchet” really means, so it can be whatever they want.

… but it looks like Ochsenkopf tried to make a Hudson Bay. 🤣
 
EngrSorenson said:
I’m sure someone in Solingen is reading this, snapping their fingers, going, “yeah… yeah, that’s it… that’s the ticket…” 🤣

In all seriousness, and I think to your point, it’s equally valid to say that we don’t really know what an “Appalachian Hatchet” really means, so it can be whatever they want.

… but it looks like Ochsenkopf tried to make a Hudson Bay. 🤣
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yeah, this is a 600 gram head, (about 21 oz)
... they said
"The Boker Plus Appalachian Axes feature a Rhenish-shaped axe head made of 1095 carbon steel, a choice that represents an above-average carbon content and material standard even for quality axes. The universally designed blade thickness is equally suitable for felling and splitting."
 
dirc said:
“…The universally designed blade thickness is equally suitable for felling and splitting."
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I’m kinda skeptical about this. I strongly prefer a heavier, chunkier axe for splitting, and a lighter, slimmer one for felling and limbing (mostly limbing, because over about 6”, I’m likely to fall and buck it with a chainsaw).

21 oz just doesn’t seem heavy enough to me for splitting. My favorite splitters start at around 3 lbs and go up from there. Lighter axes tend to stick instead of split, in my use.

Might make a good camping axe, for busting up dead limbs, etc.

Parker
 
dirc said:
fyi - boker has this 1095 appalachian axe - for only around $75 with 19.5" oal - have any of you used one??
tbh, I think 1095 is too far, my pref would be 80crv2 ; )
boeker-plus-appalachian-axe-big-09bo255.jpg
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Nothing wrong with 1095 so long as it isn't overly hardened. I'd be more concerned with the inferior Chinese hickory.
 
garry3 said:
Makes about as much sense as using a higher carbon content steel as a selling point. GB doesn't need to add anything as a selling point. They make a good hard steel axe and most know this. They also stand behind that heat treat. Sounds like you should have bought one and then this thread doesn't exist.

An alloy is added for a reason and without knowing what has been added you are just speculating, nothing more.
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Not only do I own GB, I use them!
 
Albin said:
Alguém sabe qual o aço e/ou dureza das cabeças dos machados Gerber/Fiskars?

Ganhei esta versão de 23,5" há vários anos como um presente; ela se mantém bem, mas não sou um usuário de machado.

61eggzFv+VL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
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A Fiskars nunca diz que aço é usado em seus machados.
Em testes empíricos, tem cerca de 55hrc de dureza.
Tenho todos da linha "X", mesmo com dureza um pouco baixa, são bons para usar no campo.
 
Albin said:
Anyone know what steel and/or hardness of the Gerber/Fiskars axe heads?

I was given this 23.5" version several years ago as a gift; it's held up well, but I'm not an axe user.

61eggzFv+VL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
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"Sorry, it's in Portuguese."

Fiskars never says what steel is used in their axes.
In empirical tests, it has about 55hrc hardness.
I have all of the "X" line, even with a little low hardness, they are good to use in the field.
 
My favorite axe steel is S7. I have a custom one in S7 with a differential heat treat.

It’s quite expensive stuff but offers way more toughness than the average axe steel, which means that the axe can be made with much thinner geometry. Mine is like a lightsaber, and never chips even if it impacts at a bad angle on seasoned hardwoods.
 
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