Axe, Tomahawk & Hatchet Photo Thread

I found all that stuff. There is a lot. More than what only two words compelled me to dive into. What I’m asking is for a hook. What is it and why should I take the time.
 
Your original post was about the efficacy of a "less drastic wedge" shape for splitting wood. My point was that the geometry of a rafting axe is similar and excellent for splitting wood. It has a longer bit and a wider eye & poll than a traditional axe. Plus they are typically heavier than standard full size axe, 4-5 pounds vs, 3.5 pounds. They have weight approaching maul weights and that "less drastic wedge" that you noted was beneficial.

These features, especially at 5 pounds, make them a great intermediate splitter in between mauls and standard axes. They penetrate better than a fat-wedged maul. You have less rejected blows which means less total work.

They are my first choice for splitting wood. Sometimes I have to go to something heavier. But most of my wood is Oregon maple or Douglas fir and a rafter splits these great.

If you can't find a vintage rafter then Council's new 5-pound splitting axe looks like a good substitute, provided it has enough of a high centerline or convex cheeks. Flat cheeks are sticky in splitting work.
 
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Mick Boardman said:
GreyMatter and a vintage Helko crash hatchet. View attachment 2789342View attachment 2789343
Click to expand...
The bottom protrusion hits the sheet aluminum on an aircraft and then pull up on the handle like and it has a camming can opener effect. Hit ,lift, hit , lift until the cut is the length you want. That’s what it looks like to me,I have never tried this out. I do use an old style opener here at home and it’s “puncture, lift, puncture llft “until I go around the can.
 
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