Recommendation? Bailout Alternative

A

Adan

Joined
Feb 7, 2015
Messages
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I, for one, was thrilled when the Benchmade Bailout was announced. In many ways, it seemed like a knife I'd been looking for a very long time; the only knife I know of which met all five of my carefully considered criteria for a folder, which are, in descending order of importance:

-lightweight, or 1:1 inches of blade length to ounces of weight ratio (or better).

-lock that does not require fingers in the blade path to close

-better edge-retaining steel than S30V

-deep carry pocket clip

-under $200

So, perhaps you all can understand how disappointed when I was about to buy it and found this: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/3v-hrc-debacle.1662090/ One of out the five criteria down the drain.

Sigh...no matter. The eternal search for the perfect folder continues. Any of you guys know of a knife that meets all of the above criteria?
 
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One of my favourite lightweight edcs is the Boker Exskelibur 1 full titanium framelock in s35vn. I highly recommend this knife as it is the most comfortable and lightweight 3.5 inch blade I own. It is under 200$ too. Just make sure you get the full titanium framelock exskelibur ONE. The framelock with the carbon fibre front scale tends to have issues. Also be aware that it is a front flipper opener knife. It has one of the sliciest best cutting geometry blades I have ever seen on a modern folder.

You could also check out the bailout’s stablemate the 940. The s30v 940 is just under 200$ and another great lightweight edc. The aluminum handles feel sturdier than the bug/bailout’s plasticky polymer handles. There is the carbon fibre handled 940-1 in s90v but it is closer to 270$ in price. If I were you I would just spring the extra 70 and get the 940-1.
 
What's the cutoff for"lightweight"? A S110V Manix 2 FRCP is 3 oz; a ZDP-189 Endura 4 Is 3.67. Both well enough under $200 to get yourself a deep carry clip with your spare change.

The 940-1501 was 2.9 oz, CPM 20CV, and I think could be had for $200. Can't remember if deep carry or not but BM will give you the clip if you want it. Exclusive that's not being sold anymore, though.
 
The Bugout rocks.

Don't know how much more edge retention you are going to need in a knife this light, but that's up to you I guess.

Perhaps try a Spyderco Native 5 Lightweight in S110V, but you'll have to ditch a deep carry clip.

But the Bugout would serve you extremely well I'm sure.
 
Spyderco Manix S110V Lightweight? I think you can bend the clip wires around to make it deep carry. It meets your other criteria.
 
You should be able to find a used Benchmade 940-1 (S90V) in that price range. Add a deep carry clip and it meets all of your criteria.

(I love the Bugout, too.)
 
Adan said:
I, for one, was thrilled when the Benchmade Bailout was announced. In many ways, it seemed like a knife I'd been looking for a very long time; the only knife I know of which met all five of my carefully considered criteria for a folder, which are, in descending order of importance:

-lightweight, or 1:1 inches of blade length to ounces of weight ratio (or better).

-lock that does not require fingers in the blade path to close

-better edge-retaining steel than S30V

-deep carry pocket clip

-under $200

So, perhaps you all can understand how disappointed when I was about to buy it and found this: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/3v-hrc-debacle.1662090/ One of out the five criteria down the drain.

Sigh...no matter. The eternal search for the perfect folder continues. Any of you guys know of a knife that meets all of the above criteria?
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You failed from the beginning then. It's not BM or the knife's fault. In general, I don't see 3v having better edge retention than s30v.

Get the bugout.
 
McFeeli said:
Custom Benchmade Griptilian, in your choice of size and colors. Use the Tanto as the profile, use M4 as the steel. Boom. A better Bailout.
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Very good advice. Handle won't be as slim but depending on preference that might not be a bad thing.
 
craytab said:
You failed from the beginning then. It's not BM or the knife's fault. In general, I don't see 3v having better edge retention than s30v.
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I failed? According to Cedric & Ada, when both are heat-treated correctly, the edge retention is similar or better.

craytab said:
Get the bugout
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I HAVE a Bugout, everyone. The reason I want better edge retention than S30V isn't steel snobbery, it's necessity. I'm working a construction job that involves cutting roofing shingles, and the Bugout dulled and chipped on me halfway through. Something with more edge retention and toughness (like properly heat-treated 3V) would be ideal, but I'm assuming I can get only one or the other.
 
Have you considered a small fixed blade. That would broaden your options.

Also there’s the Cold Steel Ad15. Might want to look into that.
 
Adan said:
I failed? According to Cedric & Ada, when both are heat-treated correctly, the edge retention is similar or better.



I HAVE a Bugout, everyone. The reason I want better edge retention than S30V isn't steel snobbery, it's necessity. I'm working a construction job that involves cutting roofing shingles, and the Bugout dulled and chipped on me halfway through. Something with more edge retention and toughness (like properly heat-treated 3V) would be ideal, but I'm assuming I can get only one or the other.
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You might not want to base your whole idea of edge retention on just one guys data points. They are valid data points but cutting different media will show different results.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI_ZXbN06A7W937hKKnUfqQ

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC76o8bpHyEpBaysM9Pr83Og

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1JQejhMkEMql-kh0ZqLZJg

Few channels you may want to add to the mix for additional data points. Especially since more people cut cardboard than rope. These guys also will remove the burnt edges after 3 to 5 sharpenings where Pete does not. There's more knowledge about heat treatment in these videos also.

The base composition for s30v was invented from 3v. http://www.seamountknifeworks.com/js/web/viewer.html?file=articles/pdf/S30V.pdf

Note that none of these tests show retention for roofing tiles... Cause they will dull any knife steel and fast. So you sort of still fail.
 
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Use one of the easily changeable utility razors from the big box hardware stores to cut shingle. Use the bugout outside of work. Shingles dull any steel pretty fast. I skin wire and jacketed conductor daily. s35v, elmax, ?cr?mo, m390, hxp, all dull around the same in my experience, the differences being the extent each rolls or chips. I’ve decided that pocket knives are for everything else and my cheapo skinning knife is for skinning wire.
 
Adan said:
I failed? According to Cedric & Ada, when both are heat-treated correctly, the edge retention is similar or better.



I HAVE a Bugout, everyone. The reason I want better edge retention than S30V isn't steel snobbery, it's necessity. I'm working a construction job that involves cutting roofing shingles, and the Bugout dulled and chipped on me halfway through. Something with more edge retention and toughness (like properly heat-treated 3V) would be ideal, but I'm assuming I can get only one or the other.
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For your job a custom shop m4 steel griptillian really does sound ideal. M4 isn’t stainless but it is an outstanding working knife steel.

You could also see if you could get your hands on a Spyderco Gayle Bradley 1 or 2.
 
Adan said:
I failed? According to Cedric & Ada, when both are heat-treated correctly, the edge retention is similar or better.



I HAVE a Bugout, everyone. The reason I want better edge retention than S30V isn't steel snobbery, it's necessity. I'm working a construction job that involves cutting roofing shingles, and the Bugout dulled and chipped on me halfway through. Something with more edge retention and toughness (like properly heat-treated 3V) would be ideal, but I'm assuming I can get only one or the other.
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Typically, these things are full of mineral chunks, which are going to beat up any steel. It would be like crushing a sharpening stone and running the blade through a jello full of the pieces. You may want something ground thin to lean on geometry when your apex inevitably blows out.

The problem here isn’t the steel. It’s the material being cut.
 
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