Becker BK9 as primary woods survival knife?

[bowieknifenick]

I have had the BK9 for a couple months now, beat the heck out of it, and it's held up. I bought an Ontario Ranger RD6 with my tax return, my intent for the RD6 was to carry it, along with a firesteel and some man-made tinder in the pouch, as my primary woods survival knife to carry on my belt when I'm out hiking, etc. I think I'm gonna move the firesteel and tinder into the BK9.

I like the RD6, but after doing some work with it, I find it anemic compared to the larger knives that I own. It batons great, but generally doesn't have enough length after going through the wood for a good surface to baton on. It chops, eh, ok for a 6 inch blade. I like the knife as a backyard beater, not much else.

I like the length of the BK9, has enough length to do what I need. I think I will carry this as my woods knife. Great chopper, batoner, etc.

What are your opinions. Is the bk9 too much blade for the woods? Am I doing something wrong with the RD6 that makes it anemic in my hands?

 

[6850]

Hey nick!
There's nothing wrong with the BK9!
You answered your own question...
Of that's the one you like, fine!
No law against knife length in the bush, not yet anyway.

There's best tools for every different job out there, from clipping toe nails, to chopping trees.
But, if you can make firewood, clear some brush, gut a deer, slice some bread...
It may not be best for every job, but that doesn't mean it can't do different jobs!

Carry both, or leave one in your bug out bag, or behind the seat of your truck...
Carry your Favorite!
Remember theiy are tools Nick! You might grab a Ka-bar and at the time, like it better,,or any other brand.
Or your interests may change. You may just find a knife that catches your eye... You and your treks in the bush will evolve!
There will be more knives...
And now if it's the BK9 you like, that's a fine choice!
I have a BK9. It's in a bag, good multi duty knife!

I hope you're doing well Nick!!
Take care,
Randy

 

[EChoil]

You used the word "primary." Meaning there is a secondary as well.

Ideally you should have both knives (i.e. a shorter [=< 6"], more practical knife for tasks more suited to it). It's fine to call your BK-9 the primary though.

 

[JamesofArc]

I like the BK9 but I carry an Ontario SP10 Marine Raider when I bring a big knife into the woods.

The BK9 is a good knife but you are trying to use two knives for the same chores and wondering why the RD6 is not as good as the BK9.

I have been where you were so listen your elders here and learn.

In the woods all you need is a good stockman folder for your pocket.

A 5 inch belt knife or an ESEE 6 is fine but I prefer a MKI and lots of people make them from Boker to KA-BAR. I like the KA-BAR better as the Boker is a little on the big side.

And then a axe. I have a Gransfors Burks Scandinavian Forest Axe but the Husqvarna 26 inch is just as good but a lot cheaper.

Then also get a Corona 10 inch folding saw from Lowell's and your set.

I use to carry a KA-BAR USMC MKII with my Ontario SP10 Marine Raider and its a great combination but its just as nice to scale down to a MKI and then go axe.

I do like my BK9 and it is the king of the choppers but I trust my SP10 Marine Raider 10 times more and over all I like the Marine Raider better. I make tent stakes with it and I use it as a hammer and I use it as my hatchet when I take it.

For small weekend outings your chopper knife is fine but I would get a way smaller belt knife or maybe just stick with a multi bladed pocket knife.

Now if you are going deep into the woods and doing some serious survival and serious shelter building I would go with the 26 inch axe and leave your chopper knife at home. Your axe and folding saw is all you will need and then your MKI for minor fire building and camp choirs and then your stockman for skinning game. Either a stockman or a trapper for skinning game and cleaning the dirt out from under your fingernails.

So what it boils down to is a working mans pocket knife like a stockman or a trapper.

A 4 or 5 inch Belt knife such as the MKI

A Corona folding saw or a good bow saw.

Then a good 26 inch 2.5 pound axe. You can order a Plum camping axe head from eBay for 15 bucks and then get a House Handle for it for less than 10 bucks and mount the head on the handle yourself and for less than 30 bucks you will have a very nice axe.

But it is fun playing with those big chopper knives but when you get serious then put the toy away and get serious.

 

[stabman]

Now if you are going deep into the woods and doing some serious survival and serious shelter building I would go with the 26 inch axe and leave your chopper knife at home.

Maybe if you're planning to build a cabin out there...
For most outings, even long ones with a fair bit of wood processing, a full sized axe just isn't needed.
Kind of a pain to lug around too.

Now sure, the folks on Alone all chose an axe as part of their 10 items, but they aren't hiking around lugging everything with them all over the place.
They are trying to move beyond camping or survival, and into the realm of wilderness living.

If the OP was asking about what equipment he should get to try and move to the woods for an extended period of time, an axe would be a great suggestion as one of the things to bring.

But he talks about a knife to take hiking...a full sized axe is not really a great thing to take on hikes.

 

[Spameater12003]

I use my 9 to pry open the latches on my 22" chainsaw. They get a bit sticky at times. With these two I am never in need.

Seriously though, a 9 with a SAK Huntsman in my pocket is a good do-all combo for walking in the woods.

 

[Gaston444]

I've used the BK-9 extensively and in my opinion, ignoring the heat curved blade, non-spine centered edge and other major cosmetic blemishes, it is also not enough knife for "survival chopping" because the 3/16" stock is wrong for that purpose.

Being tired and spent out is a major consideration for survival use, even if the weight of the knife might contribute to some of it... Anyone advocating smaller knives for shelter building either doesn't realize the extent of the work needed, or they have not spent a rainy night in the "easy" builds... Also longer edges are better because they grow dull slower: Simple fact.

That being said, the BK-9 is not a terrible choice to that end, if on a budget. The Ontario SP-52 and 53 are way, way better, and are even cheaper, so I don't quite get why the BK-9 gets so much attention in that corner of the price range...

Despite being broad bladed, fat handled (which is essential for a real chopper, and where the Trailmaster radically fails) and quite long-bladed, the BK-9, due to its thin 3/16" stock, does not chop much better than a Cold Steel Trailmaster or a Chris Reeve Jereboam, which are also sub-optimal knives for chopping, and most other fine tasks (edges too thick, at minimum 0.040" on the CR, and worse on convex Trailmasters).

I would think the Esee Junglas or Ontario R-Tac 2 are similarly compromised by their thinner 3/16" stock, depending on how thin their edges are. Despite the compromise on blade stock thickness, they are still quite heavy at around 20 ounces, because of the misguided full exposed tang designs which wastes a huge amount of weight in the wrong place...

I think 0.22" to 0.25" stock is really the ideal range a good chopper blade should be at, if the weight issue is mitigated by a stick tang or hollow handle.

Any Carbon steel is a big downgrade in edge durability under hard use, especially in survival conditions: Any rain on the edge, while the edge sits in a sheath, and within hours a lot of fine-cutting versatility will be lost through the edge rusting. Stainless crushes any Carbon in hard-use edge-holding anyway, so the current emphasis on Carbon steels is truly bizarre...

The best stainless chopper for the weight and size is probably a Randall Model 12, with its versatile 0.020" edge: Due to the thin edge and hollow grind (which round handles can't use because hollow grinds tend to roll in wood, and so round handles are limited to flat grinds), the Randall Model 12 outperforms the Bk-9 by a ratio of around 2:1... By contrast, the Ontario SP-52-53s out-perform everything, but these have thick edges that are not versatile for fine tasks. They are, additionally, in Carbon...

Closest stainless competitor to the Randall 12 would be a Fallkniven Thor, which is almost as expensive. I had to re-shape the handle of my Model 12 for optimum performance, so maybe the Thor out of the box is closer, but the Thor's handle is much too thin, scary slippery, and transfers force poorly (being similar to the Trailmaster)... The stick tang is definitely a big plus, but the Model 12 also has one.

All the Busse knives are very thick behind the edge, a few odd thinner ones being at least 0.035"... But 0.050" to 0.060" is far more typical for Busse, which eliminates them from serious consideration: At 0.060" and over you are basically bludgeoning your way through the wood: It takes a lot of time and is painful to watch... The lack of stick tangs also means the weight is horrendous for any given stock thickness...

Gaston

 

[trevitrace]

I've used the BK-9 extensively and in my opinion, ignoring the heat curved blade, non-spine centered edge and other major cosmetic blemishes, it is also not enough knife for "survival chopping" because the 3/16" stock is wrong for that purpose.

Being tired and spent out is a major consideration for survival use, even if the weight of the knife might contribute to some of it... Anyone advocating smaller knives for shelter building either doesn't realize the extent of the work needed, or they have not spent a rainy night in the "easy" builds... Also longer edges are better because they grow dull slower: Simple fact.

That being said, the BK-9 is not a terrible choice to that end, if on a budget. The Ontario SP-52 and 53 are way, way better, and are even cheaper, so I don't quite get why the BK-9 gets so much attention in that corner of the price range...

Despite being broad bladed, fat handled (which is essential for a real chopper, and where the Trailmaster radically fails) and quite long-bladed, the BK-9, due to its thin 3/16" stock, does not chop much better than a Cold Steel Trailmaster or a Chris Reeve Jereboam, which are also sub-optimal knives for chopping, and most other fine tasks (edges too thick, at minimum 0.040" on the CR, and worse on convex Trailmasters).

I would think the Esee Junglas or Ontario R-Tac 2 are similarly compromised by their thinner 3/16" stock, depending on how thin their edges are. Despite the compromise on blade stock thickness, they are still quite heavy at around 20 ounces, because of the misguided full exposed tang designs which wastes a huge amount of weight in the wrong place...

I think 0.22" to 0.25" stock is really the ideal range a good chopper blade should be at, if the weight issue is mitigated by a stick tang or hollow handle.

Any Carbon steel is a big downgrade in edge durability under hard use, especially in survival conditions: Any rain on the edge, while the edge sits in a sheath, and within hours a lot of fine-cutting versatility will be lost through the edge rusting. Stainless crushes any Carbon in hard-use edge-holding anyway, so the current emphasis on Carbon steels is truly bizarre...

The best stainless chopper for the weight and size is probably a Randall Model 12, with its versatile 0.020" edge: Due to the thin edge and hollow grind (which round handles can't use because hollow grinds tend to roll in wood, and so round handles are limited to flat grinds), the Randall Model 12 outperforms the Bk-9 by a ratio of around 2:1... By contrast, the Ontario SP-52-53s out-perform everything, but these have thick edges that are not versatile for fine tasks. They are, additionally, in Carbon...

Closest stainless competitor to the Randall 12 would be a Fallkniven Thor, which is almost as expensive. I had to re-shape the handle of my Model 12 for optimum performance, so maybe the Thor out of the box is closer, but the Thor's handle is much too thin, scary slippery, and transfers force poorly (being similar to the Trailmaster)... The stick tang is definitely a big plus, but the Model 12 also has one.

All the Busse knives are very thick behind the edge, a few odd thinner ones being at least 0.035"... But 0.050" to 0.060" is far more typical for Busse, which eliminates them from serious consideration: At 0.060" and over you are basically bludgeoning your way through the wood: It takes a lot of time and is painful to watch... The lack of stick tangs also means the weight is horrendous for any given stock thickness...

Gaston

I need to read this tomorrow. Quoted so I don't forget where it was.

 

[GREENJACKET]

You pack it, you carry it.
A primary knife to me is my small knife: EDC.
Anything after that is to compliment it be it a large blade, saw or axe... or all three. Becker BK9 is a great choice. There are a few other great choices too.

This year I will be mainly carrying my Skrama and a Silky Gomboy 270 saw to compliment my small knife.

 

[GREENJACKET]

Don't forget a good saw, one of the best things to compliment any knife. A small knife and good saw will out compete a big knife on its own.

 

[22-rimfire]

I think we all sort of develop our own preferences. Nothing wrong with a BK-9. Have fun with your choices. Always carry a folder just in case you loose one of your knives and for cutting small.

I seldom do any kind of chopping with a knife and when I know I will be chopping, I take a short machete (longer than the BK-9). I think in terms of a multi-tool approach to the woods and the 5-6" knife usually gets left at home IF I am going to be chopping. No chopping and only the 5-6" knife ride along with me. For the last year of so, that has been a BK-15 or one of the Blackjacks. But, how do you know you won't be doing any significant chopping? That is a preference thing based on your experience in the terrain you normally hike/camp and play. But honestly, I seldom carry anything over 6" long unless I'm car camping and then I bring along many blades/options to play with (axe, saws, machete, big knife, middle sized knife, folders... whatever I feel like tossing in the truck).

I'll always carry a folder in my pocket. Add a small folding saw and you can do everything except split wood. But how often do you actually NEED to do that? In a very wet environment, I could see the splitting ability as significant.

 

[pinnah]

My primary woods carry is a Leatherman PS2 Squirt and an Opinel N10 Inox.

I rely on my tarp, alcohol stove and clothing system for shelter, cooking, warmth. When I feel the need to be more manly, I refer to them as my tactical tarp [1], survival stove, and survival clothing.

[1] - My tarp is green, thus tactical.

 

[DPC]

BK9 seems good but why stop there?

 

[22-rimfire]

Hey Pinnah.... when you use your tactical tarp (camping) in regulated areas (parks and so forth), do you pay for a back country campsite permit or just set up where ever you end up and spend the night (or both)?

 

[pinnah]

Hey Pinnah.... when you use your tactical tarp (camping) in regulated areas (parks and so forth), do you pay for a back country campsite permit or just set up where ever you end up and spend the night (or both)?

In backcountry areas, I follow the regs for that area pretty closely. If backcountry fees or permits are required, I do that. In the warmer months, most of woods time is spent at higher elevations which out here means in the boreal or alpine zones, which are frail and easily over-impacted, so up there, I stick to established campsites which typically have fees.

For bike touring... I go into stealth ninja mode and if I sleep within your town's limits, nobody notices.

 

[GREENJACKET]

Gaston444, I sort of agree with what you are saying. Though I did say there is nothing wrong with the BK-9 and there are other great choices too. I am not actually a fan of the big knife as a survival chopper, one knife "does all" thing. The theory has a massive following so everyone needs to try for themselves. But its a load of baloney.
Sadly all these big blades like the BK-9, Junglass, Busse Battle Mistress, Lile, there are loads, are if the truth was allowed just not great at anything. All too big, too heavy, and not efficient.

Few big knives can chop, at best they bludgeon.
They weigh far too much to carry any distance other than for a jolly in the woods.
To big and heavy then they just aren't good at small tasks.
Why does anyone need to batton a log? There is dry wood in much smaller stuff that a penknife could split.
A real waste of enery, and survival is all about conserving and harvesting energy. These big bladed things aren't good at either.

Overbuilt sharpened brick knives just aren't that useful. A lot of marketing has gone into selling them, but they just aren't very good. There are just better tools for what they are trying to do. One being an axe and another for pure wood processing is the saw. All these "tests" of chopping some big log with a knife, seem to me silly; just shows how incredibly inefficient these things are. Other than a bit of fun, there really isn't much use for them.

My Skama is a thinking man's golock, so a cutter not a chipper like an axe. Its more a European forest parang or machete than big knife which is why I like it. It still needs a small knife, saw, and even an axe, to best compliment it.

I still like quite long blades but then they had better be slim built, carrying a keen edge, and not weigh a ton. Whatever it may be, its carried for its edge and cutting. The basic 5-6" sheath type knife is as good a knife as anything. With so much land being in conservation mode then there really isn't much "wood" processing to be done. On private land then its agricultural tools for the most part. Trekking its all about weight saving, camping is home from home so a kitchen knife is pretty good, so I really can't find a reason for "The Big Knife Chopper".

Even though I like the idea, in practice they aren't that great. Truth be known, pretty rubbish however well made.

 

[bowieknifenick]

Thanks all for the replies, really good advice. I do carry a Syperdo Tenacious as my EDC, it never leaves my cargo pocket. I'm usually never without two knives. I like to hike on a whim. Sometimes my hikes don't require my full hiking backpack, which has a SAK, a LMF mora, and a multi tool. I usually don't carry the pack if I'm just doing an under 5 mile hike, so I am going through my knife drawer trying to decide which knife will accompany me into the woods on my pack less hikes. I have a lot to choose from, Kabar USMC, Ontario sp10 raider Bowie, 2 Ontario sp1 combat knives , Ontario rd6, my Ontario rtak2' or my bk9. I really like the bk9 and have no problems carrying it on my belt. Rtak2 is a little big, bangs against my knee, I usually strap it to my pack. I'm just looking for all around belt knife that can do everything. Rd6 is a great knife but too short for my personal need , I have the sp10 raider Bowie but I don't carry it into the woods I dislike the sheath for lack of a pouch. As this is a belt knife to be taken into the woods I want to be able to carry a fire steel and a couple other things in the pouch. Don't want to carry them in my pocket, I know I'd forget to take them. I like to be able to grab the knife and go

 

[mec003]

Yeah, I would consider a bk9 as a complimentary or secondary knife to a smaller blade. Its a bit overkill for tasks such as opening a package, whittling yourself a spoon, or skinning small game. It can certainly accomplish these chores, but not the best tool for the job.

How much wood processing is necessary when you hike? It's probably going to be less weight to just carry a folding saw. Not sure of your location or environment. Here in the mid atlantic region wood is not scarce. And we can likely forage enough wood with little need for a large blade.

If the 9 is just for enjoyment and you are willing to carry tole weight, then by all means go for it. Its a great tool and will perform many additional tasks well. I just don't see it as the best primary tool to take outdoors.

 

[22-rimfire]

Yeah, I would consider a bk9 as a complimentary or secondary knife to a smaller blade. Its a bit overkill for tasks such as opening a package, whittling yourself a spoon, or skinning small game. It can certainly accomplish these chores, but not the best tool for the job.

How much wood processing is necessary when you hike? It's probably going to be less weight to just carry a folding saw. Not sure of your location or environment. Here in the mid atlantic region wood is not scarce. And we can likely forage enough wood with little need for a large blade.

If the 9 is just for enjoyment and you are willing to carry tole weight, then by all means go for it. Its a great tool and will perform many additional tasks well. I just don't see it as the best primary tool to take outdoors.

That has generally been my experience too as I am in the SE Appalachians. I just generally don't want to tote a large knife because I seldom use them even when I carry one. My SAK gets most of the use in the woods hiking and so forth. Hunting... different knives. The main place that I chop is when I go fishing at this one place and after I'm done fishing (tired), I'll grab a machete and start clearing the trails or access points from the road to make it easier for someone else. Today I chopped up a hardwood limb (about 3" diameter) that had fallen yesterday into workable pieces in my yard. Used the Condor El Salvador machete and it worked great. I hadn't chopped any hardwoods with it other than an occasional limb or three.

 

[tknife]

You have to carry and use whatever knife you are comfortable using, and what makes you happy. I grew away from large knives because I felt like I was just looking for an excuse to use them. Depends on where you are as well though. I don't have any big stuff that needs chopping.