Belt sander options (not brand)

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wesessiah

Joined
Feb 23, 2012
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What does everyone find more useful as the second option on a belt sander... a grinding wheel, or disc sander? I'm just now starting with some stock removal, angle grinder, rotary tool and files, but now I want to try a belt sander. Since I am just starting I'm looking at inexpensive 1x30" or something like that until I decide how serious I want to get, and then I'll consider some options listed in the sticky thread. Thanks.
 
Good morning!
A
1x30 sander doesn’t give you many options and you may need to work on the platen in order to be able to use the edge of the belt.
The sanding disc may be useful for sanding scales.
The 1x30 can be a starting point or maybe all you need. Luckily these are fairly inexpensive and an upgrade from a hand belt sander held in a vice.
 
Since I'm just starting as well, I would recommend the Grizzly 2x42. They're a good deal for the product you get and I've been happy with mine.
The thing about getting a 1x30 is that you won't be able to get any special belts for it- That is a little problem with the 2x42 but you can usually find any kind of belts if you look hard enough. That is the main reason I would recommend a bigger sander over the 1x30.
I started with the bucktool 2x42 sander on amazon and honestly it wasn't that bad either. I would definitely rather have the grizzly but if you can only spend so much...
 
Scotchmon said:
Good morning!
A
1x30 sander doesn’t give you many options and you may need to work on the platen in order to be able to use the edge of the belt.
The sanding disc may be useful for sanding scales.
The 1x30 can be a starting point or maybe all you need. Luckily these are fairly inexpensive and an upgrade from a hand belt sander held in a vice.
Click to expand...
If the sanding disc is more useful for scales that sounds like the better option. I can still use an angle grinder and vise in place of a wheel. Thanks.
Linus Knives said:
Since I'm just starting as well, I would recommend the Grizzly 2x42. They're a good deal for the product you get and I've been happy with mine.
The thing about getting a 1x30 is that you won't be able to get any special belts for it- That is a little problem with the 2x42 but you can usually find any kind of belts if you look hard enough. That is the main reason I would recommend a bigger sander over the 1x30.
I started with the bucktool 2x42 sander on amazon and honestly it wasn't that bad either. I would definitely rather have the grizzly but if you can only spend so much...
Click to expand...
I'm open to a 2x42, just not ready to spend $2000 on something when just starting. I'll check into those, thanks.
 
wesessiah said:
If the sanding disc is more useful for scales that sounds like the better option. I can still use an angle grinder and vise in place of a wheel. Thanks.

I'm open to a 2x42, just not ready to spend $2000 on something when just starting. I'll check into those, thanks.
Click to expand...
I just looked and the grizzly is running $299 and free shipping for the holiday sale. wow, that's 100 dollars less than I spent 8 months ago or so.
I'm not telling you what to do and you should definitely look into all the options, but I'd jump on it- not sure how long the sale runs.
 
Linus Knives said:
I just looked and the grizzly is running $299 and free shipping for the holiday sale. wow, that's 100 dollars less than I spent 8 months ago or so.
I'm not telling you what to do and you should definitely look into all the options, but I'd jump on it- not sure how long the sale runs.
Click to expand...
Adding attachments will run about another $300- unless you can fabricate them yourself.
The attachments take the grinder to the next level…
 
Are you asking what options We like?
Or are you asking what options you can get with a 1x30?

Most of us use a 2x72" grinder, so we might have different thoughts....

My disk grinder is a separate piece of equipment. I made it.
I also have a 14" wheel.

I tend to use both in different ways than most people, and specifically how I want My knives.


Me personally.... My favorite/most useful option is getting a carbide platen. I hope it lasts forever....

We are told glass plattens last a long time.
They Don't.
Maybe because I grind high carbide steels, but I was very disappointed in glass platens.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Are you asking what options We like?
Or are you asking what options you can get with a 1x30?

Most of us use a 2x72" grinder, so we might have different thoughts....

My disk grinder is a separate piece of equipment. I made it.
I also have a 14" wheel.

I tend to use both in different ways than most people, and specifically how I want My knives.


Me personally.... My favorite/most useful option is getting a carbide platen. I hope it lasts forever....

We are told glass plattens last a long time.
They Don't.
Maybe because I grind high carbide steels, but I was very disappointed in glass platens.
Click to expand...
yes, the options everyone personally likes, finds the most useful. I mentioned 1x30" because it seems to be a common recommendation for starting to get your feet wet, but I'm open to other sizes, just not more than a few hundred dollars yet.
Linus Knives said:
I just looked and the grizzly is running $299 and free shipping for the holiday sale. wow, that's 100 dollars less than I spent 8 months ago or so.
I'm not telling you what to do and you should definitely look into all the options, but I'd jump on it- not sure how long the sale runs.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the heads up.
 
have you made any knives yet?
 
Lorien said:
have you made any knives yet?
Click to expand...

This IS a good question....
For the OP, other Makers can't tell you what to do.

Mainly, because we do what we do, because it works for Us.... For how we want our knives to be. If we wanted different knives, we'd go about making them differently.

What new makers need to figure out early is....What kind of knives do you like, and want?
That's First.

Then we need to figure out, Why, or What is the best way of going about making them.


If all I make was Battle Axes. And maybe I'm world famous at making them....my tools and techniques, and advice is going to be way different if you want to make neck knives.
And my advice would be Wrong, for You
 
Crag the Brewer said:
This IS a good question....
For the OP, other Makers can't tell you what to do.

Mainly, because we do what we do, because it works for Us.... For how we want our knives to be. If we wanted different knives, we'd go about making them differently.

What new makers need to figure out early is....What kind of knives do you like, and want?
That's First.

Then we need to figure out, Why, or What is the best way of going about making them.


If all I make was Battle Axes. And maybe I'm world famous at making them....my tools and techniques, and advice is going to be way different if you want to make neck knives.
And my advice would be Wrong, for You
Click to expand...
I'm focusing on fixed blades in general right now, and after I feel like I'm good at that I want to try out tomahawks then folders.
 
The Grizzly 2X42 grinder for $300 shipped is heck of a deal - it also runs 2X48" belts with no mods. While those "$300s worth of mods" are good, you sure don't need them to start. An angle grinder is no comparison to a belt grinder.
 
wesessiah said:
Yes, I have one that I purchased some damascus bar stock and did stock removal with an angle grinder, rotary tool, and files.
Click to expand...
what part of that process was the biggest pain in the ass for you?
 
You never filled out your profile, so it is hard to give specific advice for wherer to buy and what brands.

If you are just starting and want to make a knife for fun, get a cheap 1X30 with disc sander on te side from HF or another low-price store. It will work, the belts can be bought at the same store, and it will still have some use later on if you get bigger and better equipment. A grinder with variable speed is preferred.

Also, get some files and a stack of metal working sandpaper.

Most of the basics and needs can be found in this tutorial:
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

Thread 'How to instructions for making a knife'



These are the instructions I use to get someone started with a profiled stainless steel knife blank. I send it to new makers when I send them a blade blank and handle kit.

I thought there might be those who could use the tutorial and pointers. Some details are specific to a particular knife project, but the info is universal. You can start with a bar of any type of steel and shape it to the knife profile you want. 1084 is a good starter carbon steel, and CPM-154 is a good starter stainless steel.



Files needed are a 10-12" mill bastard (or a magic-cut), and a 10" second cut...
 
Lorien said:
what part of that process was the biggest pain in the ass for you?
Click to expand...
Shaping the contours, like the choil and the tang. However, I haven't made the scales yet. I'm going to do wood, I make a lot of wooden jigs at work for employees, so I'll probably just stay after work and shape those on one of the big belt sanders. Still undecided on hardware, I've thought brass pins, some kind of sex bolts, maybe stainless roll pins. The scales may end up being a pain in the ass on one of those big sanders, as small things like to jump on the ones we have with any kind of pressure.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You never filled out your profile, so it is hard to give specific advice for wherer to buy and what brands.

If you are just starting and want to make a knife for fun, get a cheap 1X30 with disc sander on te side from HF or another low-price store. It will work, the belts can be bought at the same store, and it will still have some use later on if you get bigger and better equipment. A grinder with variable speed is preferred.

Also, get some files and a stack of metal working sandpaper.

Most of the basics and needs can be found in this tutorial:
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

Thread 'How to instructions for making a knife'



These are the instructions I use to get someone started with a profiled stainless steel knife blank. I send it to new makers when I send them a blade blank and handle kit.

I thought there might be those who could use the tutorial and pointers. Some details are specific to a particular knife project, but the info is universal. You can start with a bar of any type of steel and shape it to the knife profile you want. 1084 is a good starter carbon steel, and CPM-154 is a good starter stainless steel.



Files needed are a 10-12" mill bastard (or a magic-cut), and a 10" second cut...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info. More files would probably be a good inexpensive investment, I just have chainsaw files as of now. I'll check out that tutorial too.
 
wesessiah said:
Shaping the contours, like the choil and the tang. However, I haven't made the scales yet. I'm going to do wood, I make a lot of wooden jigs at work for employees, so I'll probably just stay after work and shape those on one of the big belt sanders. Still undecided on hardware, I've thought brass pins, some kind of sex bolts, maybe stainless roll pins. The scales may end up being a pain in the ass on one of those big sanders, as small things like to jump on the ones we have with any kind of pressure.
Click to expand...
Just NO to roll pins. Brass pins are a good start. Maybe not most long life durable, but simple to install, low cost, easy to shape. All of which are better for your early progress.

Don’t make full tangs. Make hidden tangs with Micarta frames and wood scales. Much easier to cut out and shape the steel. Leaves you more leeway on handle shaping while you figure out what is comfortable, and no hard tang to hit and blunt files on.
Frame Tang by Last Scratch, on Flickr
D

Thread 'Explain the idea of frame tang'

A hidden tang, slot double guard knife that's made in a way that makes it look like it's full tang, even though it isn't...

What is the reasoning behind this knife handle design? Are there a lot of practical advantages to it compared to a regular one piece hidden tang handle, or is it made mainly for esthetic reasons?

A disc sander is nice for putting a flat bevel on the leading edge of a handle scale. I was given a separate 10” Proxxon disc sander and it isn’t something I use much.
 
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