Blade blank question for knifemakers

D

DL Robin

Joined
Dec 1, 2007
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I am looking at purchasing a 3V blade blank -they are hardened 58-60-from jantz/ knife making dot com. My plan is to procure some micarta fasten and shape the handle making it "semi custom" for my personal use. The goal being to have a knife in a quality steel, fit to my hand and at a lower price than I would pay for production or custom blade.
My questions:
1 Does anyone have any experience with jantz blade blanks?
2 And any suggestions on handle finishing (I will be shaping handle w/ small drum sander (dremel type tool).
3 Cheap source of micarta? (not picky about color)
thanks
Dean
 
I'm sure the blanks from Janz would suit your purposes.

If I were you I would just order a set of micarta scales from them as well.

A Dremel would work but the micarta will wear out the drums faster than most woods (IME) so you might want to make sure you have some extras for the shaping. I would hand sand then once you have them shapes how you like.
 
I bought a blade from them and some handle material. I was very happy with what they sent me and the service. I would buy one of their Made in USA patterns and also get everything else from them. The have the pins,bolsters,sheaths and handle material listed with the blades. Get some files and sand paper to shape the handle. Read all the stickies at the top of this page and get to it!
 
USAknifemaker.com has some really cheap brown micarta. Nice stuff. Easy to cut with a coping saw. I found it easy to sand with the basic drum, but the Dremel 115 high speed cutter is good for more rapid removal:
115-lg%20r119343v15.jpg

I'd recommend the longer cure epoxies. Almost anything work for pins - even copper wire.

I couldn't find any 3V blanks on Jantz's sight. Does the blade have a name or number to look it up?

Another place to buy a really nice blank is Arkansas damascus. And DLT trading has O1 Enzo trappers for $40.
 
Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated.
The blade is in their cataloge they call it a tactical fighter blade it is listed as CAT # J9268 item.
 
Since you've never done handle work before (my favorite part of making a knife) I'd suggest going files and sandpaper. Gives you way more control and cuts the "whoops" factor down to almost zero. Once you epoxy them on you don't want to go through the hassle of breaking them off and starting over. Plus I find shaping the handle involves a lot of "feel'. Shape a bit, handle the knife, shape more, handle the knife, again and again until you're ready to start making it look pretty. Two tips: Play-Doh or modeling clay on the blank will allow you to easily shape the handle to about what you want it to feel like, plus you can play with palm swells and whatnot a lot easier then work on laying it out on your scales. Finish the very front of your scales before you move onto the rest. It's a lot easier to tape them together and finish the fronts off the blade where you don't have to worry about catching the metal with a file or sandpaper and scratching it up then try to remove the scratches right against the scales.
 
You might think about building a less expensive knife first. For practice. It would give you a chance to hone your skills. Lots of good but inexpensive kitchen blades that you could gift or keep when you are finished.
 
I forgot to say, I started with a couple of the Green River blades first. I put some mesquite scales on a 7" butcher blade and really liked the results. That knife was awesome in the kitchen. I made the mistake of taking it to a BBQ and gave it to a girl that liked it... that was the last I saw of her or the knife !
 
I think anyone with some basic craft/woodwork skills can complete a project like this with professional results. My reservations are just that this blank is only $10 cheaper than a GSO 4.1 factory 2nd. A no-name blank shouldn't be fetching that kind of price just because it is cut out of a $20 piece of 3V steel.
 
RX-79G said:
I think anyone with some basic craft/woodwork skills can complete a project like this with professional results. My reservations are just that this blank is only $10 cheaper than a GSO 4.1 factory 2nd. A no-name blank shouldn't be fetching that kind of price just because it is cut out of a $20 piece of 3V steel.
Click to expand...

That might be a little oversimplified....it was cut out probably drilled profiled and ground then heat treated and tempered reground to final finish before polish....Instant gratification...Wouldn't it be
nice to just be able to drop a "Bucket Seat" into a Shelby Cobra Super Snake turn the key and VRRRRRROOOOOMMMMM....Instant gratification...:eek: Everybody sees a different price...:D
 
...it was cut out probably drilled profiled and ground then heat treated and tempered reground to final finish before polish....
Click to expand...

So was this USA made 9.5" blade - cryonic treatment, even.
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/j2307.htm

But it costs $32 from the same maker.

The difference in price between 440C and 3V isn't 400%. If their 440C USA made blanks were $70 or more, I could understand why the 3V one was $120.
 
RX-79G said:
So was this USA made 9.5" blade - cryonic treatment, even.
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/j2307.htm

But it costs $32 from the same maker.

The difference in price between 440C and 3V isn't 400%. If their 440C USA made blanks were $70 or more, I could understand why the 3V one was $120.
Click to expand...

I have some $20 an inch Pattern welded steel (Damascus) billets that I put a catch cup under my band saw to catch the Unicorn Dust....I get the pricing and its got that catchy 3V name is it
really worth that much more to some guy that has no idea....Why is my M390 blanks more than my AEB-L its what people want and are asking for so funny how price follows demand....:D ;)
 
Busto said:
I have some $20 an inch Pattern welded steel (Damascus) billets that I put a catch cup under my band saw to catch the Unicorn Dust....I get the pricing and its got that catchy 3V name is it
really worth that much more to some guy that has no idea....Why is my M390 blanks more than my AEB-L its what people want and are asking for so funny how price follows demand....:D ;)
Click to expand...

But 3V isn't that expensive. A 1.5x.187x18 chunk is $43 from Jantz. That's two knives worth.
 
RX-79G said:
But 3V isn't that expensive. A 1.5x.187x18 chunk is $43 from Jantz. That's two knives worth.
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I fully agree but the OP is purchasing a Ready to handle Blade....blank slab is cheap its all the stuff done to it for $$ and then what jantz adds on as profit....Do you make a knife
from a blank and charge the price of the blank after all the work is done....20 blank 10 hours labor....So would you sell that for the $21.50
 
Busto said:
I fully agree but the OP is purchasing a Ready to handle Blade....blank slab is cheap its all the stuff done to it for $$ and then what jantz adds on as profit....Do you make a knife
from a blank and charge the price of the blank after all the work is done....20 blank 10 hours labor....So would you sell that for the $21.50
Click to expand...

At the risk of being argumentative, here' some math:

Jantz sells 440C for $38.95 for a 1.5x18x.187 piece ($3.25 per inch). They do all the labor to may a 9.5" knife out of that steel for $32.95

Jantz takes 3V, which they sell for $43.95 for 1.5x18x.187 ($3.67 per inch) and make an 11" knife out of it for $119.


By Jantz's numbers, 3V is only about 10% more expensive than 440C. So either the 3V knife is much more difficult to grind and heat treat than the cryo'd 440C
blade, or the they are charging a WHOPPING premium to offer a completed blade in a steel that is felt to be premium.

But if 3V is a premium steel, 3V billet isn't priced that way. So I think it is likely just a premium price. Is that premium money well spent when the knifemaker isn't a reputable Survive Knives or Bark River, but Jantz?
 
Why would you think Jantz is not a "reputable maker?"
They do their own waterjet cutting, grinding, and polishing. While you may think of it as a "no name" product, anyone who makes knives knows differently.
I have dealt with Jantz for 30+ years. Their quality is always top notch, and their customer service is impeccable.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
While you may think of it as a "no name" product, anyone who makes knives knows differently.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I doubt he's ever actually made a knife or he wouldn't have asked why it cost more in the first place.
 
As I understand it, 3v is more difficult to machine than 440c. That would mean more man hours is grinding, and more abrasives needed to finish it. Couple that with supply and demand, and you get a higher price.

RX-79G said:
At the risk of being argumentative, here' some math:

Jantz sells 440C for $38.95 for a 1.5x18x.187 piece ($3.25 per inch). They do all the labor to may a 9.5" knife out of that steel for $32.95

Jantz takes 3V, which they sell for $43.95 for 1.5x18x.187 ($3.67 per inch) and make an 11" knife out of it for $119.


By Jantz's numbers, 3V is only about 10% more expensive than 440C. So either the 3V knife is much more difficult to grind and heat treat than the cryo'd 440C
blade, or the they are charging a WHOPPING premium to offer a completed blade in a steel that is felt to be premium.

But if 3V is a premium steel, 3V billet isn't priced that way. So I think it is likely just a premium price. Is that premium money well spent when the knifemaker isn't a reputable Survive Knives or Bark River, but Jantz?
Click to expand...
 
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