Blade blank question for knifemakers

Bill DeShivs said:
Why would you think Jantz is not a "reputable maker?"
They do their own waterjet cutting, grinding, and polishing. While you may think of it as a "no name" product, anyone who makes knives knows differently.
I have dealt with Jantz for 30+ years. Their quality is always top notch, and their customer service is impeccable.
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I'm not busting on Jantz. There is "no name" stamped on that blade. I'm sure they are a very competent source of grinding hand heat treating prowess - if that's all that goes into a knife like the OP's. They price that competence as low as $22 for a D2 or 440C blade.

But if you believe that the cost of a knife includes someone's design expertise in the way the knife is shaped for its intended role, resale value, name recognition and maybe a warranty, a Jantz $120 knife blade might be found lacking.

I would personally buy one of these blades - just not for that much money, for the reasons I just stated.
 
S.Alexander said:
As I understand it, 3v is more difficult to machine than 440c. That would mean more man hours is grinding, and more abrasives needed to finish it. Couple that with supply and demand, and you get a higher price.
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...For what it's worth, 3V machines okay. Not great, but no worse than D2 or 440C....
 
:thumbup:



I like 3V. As a Knifemaker I think it is both a good material that works well and it is very popular. It is very durable and it sells well.

I charge extra for it because it is more expensive. Remember, it's not just the extra material that goes into a particular knife, it is all the extra material that goes into a run including R&D, setup and scrap. It might cost $20 extra in a typical knife, but I think it's reasonable to add perhaps $40 simply because you don't sell every blank you make and there are costs that need to be covered. And there is a risk premium when working with expensive materials. I've scrapped an entire run of blades before (fortunately not in 3V) and the potential for scrapping a $1000 sheet of steel deserves some premium. And the upfront cost of acquiring a sheet of a premium material.

That said...
A: $40 is a reasonable premium for a typical large fixed blade for something like 3V, IMO.
B: Good D2 outperforms 3V in most important ways involving edge retention and general use. If you're not wailing on it, 3V is an unnecessary expense. In my opinion.
 
Adam Buttry said:
Agreed. I doubt he's ever actually made a knife or he wouldn't have asked why it cost more in the first place.
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On this one I only ground out of 50100B, heat treated, coated, made the micarta from scratch and built the sheath.
011_zps43162b12.jpg

Normally I would have forged the blade and/or pattern welded it.

Sorry I don't have more pictures.
 
RX-79G said:
On this one I only ground out of 50100B, heat treated, coated, made the micarta from scratch and built the sheath.
011_zps43162b12.jpg

Normally I would have forged the blade and/or pattern welded it.

Sorry I don't have more pictures.
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Even a forged blade requires some grinding...
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
:thumbup:



I like 3V. As a Knifemaker I think it is both a good material that works well and it is very popular. It is very durable and it sells well.

I charge extra for it because it is more expensive. Remember, it's not just the extra material that goes into a particular knife, it is all the extra material that goes into a run including R&D, setup and scrap. It might cost $20 extra in a typical knife, but I think it's reasonable to add perhaps $40 simply because you don't sell every blank you make and there are costs that need to be covered. And there is a risk premium when working with expensive materials. I've scrapped an entire run of blades before (fortunately not in 3V) and the potential for scrapping a $1000 sheet of steel deserves some premium. And the upfront cost of acquiring a sheet of a premium material.

That said...
A: $40 is a reasonable premium for a typical large fixed blade for something like 3V, IMO.
B: Good D2 outperforms 3V in most important ways involving edge retention and general use. If you're not wailing on it, 3V is an unnecessary expense. In my opinion.
Click to expand...

And as a consumer and user (hard user) I will gladly pay extra for what I know is hands down better steel. (From hard use of many "as in dozens" types)


Maelstrom78 said:
Stuff is worth what people will pay for it.


http://www.amazon.com/dp/1452128332/?tag=buzz0f-20

md2jhx.jpg



*MindBoggles*
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Unless they prefer socialism to free market approaches...;)

As an aside, absolutely agreed!
 
painkilleraz said:
And as a consumer and user (hard user) I will gladly pay extra for what I know is hands down better steel. (From hard use of many "as in dozens" types)
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Would you pay extra for a warranty, brand reputation or design philosophy?
 
Greetings,

I've made several purchases from them over the years... Their Jantz blanks are worth it for me...
I have always worked with D2 or 5160, The Jantz patterns are well designed and of good quality.
After doing my own test on the early ones, I'm convinced it's a good product. My test consists of
a 3/8" grade 5 bolt and a 24oz ball-peen hammer. If the blade will cut it and survive it passes my test.
I only purchase D2 from them.

There is nothing wrong with starting out with production materials or a kit. You still learn how much
time it takes and the work that is put into one.

Hang tough... owning the tools to forge and grind your own steel is expensive, so keep working with
what you have and I hope you post back with some pics.

hagatha
 
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