Bullnose sheath talk

Redmeadow Knives

Redmeadow Knives

John Conner
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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The tl:dr version-

1: Use this thread for suggestions on the sheath design.

2: Somebody start a thread in the Sub to name this design.

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Taco, pancake, horizontal, vertical, crossdraw, belt loop, belt slot, X-slot, dangler, and everything in between, we gots options.

Part of the ridiculous Redmeadow ride is me asking for your input. Take advantage of that and throw out any ideas you have for the sheath. You dont have to be one of the Dibs, lotty, dotty, everbotty.

I'm leaning toward a crossdraw and vertical type of sheath but I'm game for whatever you guys want as long as I can manage to pull it off.

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Now for the second part of this thread:

For the love of all that is Cowbell, someone start a seperate thread to name this design.

If you need help starting the thread, changing polls, or any kind of Mod help, let me know. We can always merge move or edit if we get doubles going, don't be scairt.
 
I think the design of the Bullnose might make it a bit challenging to make a sheath for because it has no protruding guard and the blade is wider than the handle. And because of that I would be a bit leery of going with a cross draw sheath for that design. I bought a Dan Grave knife some time back and made a sheath for it and due to a similar situation, the handle was a stag taper and necked down fairly narrow with a small guard, and the blade was probably a bit wider than guard or handle. The sheath I made for the Dan Grave knife was made wrong in my opinion as I should have made the leading edge taller than the following edge to make it more secure but this was my first attempt at this style sheath and I didn't notice it until after it was done. The next sheath is made correctly for knife I made for Mack with the leading edge of the sheath taller than the following edge. Also worth mentioning Mack's sheath also has a Loveless style cam lock to further secure the knife. Depending on the size of the knife you really only want get about one to two fingers and a thumb on the handle to pull the knife out of the sheath. That's why I refer to this style as a deep pouch type sheath for lack of a better term. The next one is from Dave Ferry or Horsewright on Blade forums here. Dave does some fantastic work and openly shares his knowledge of leather working with everyone here. I have not made a pancake sheath like this yet but it is on my short list of things to do. I hope this helps.

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Excellent point Scott. I designed it thinking that slight bit of guard would help with retention in a deep pouch. You're right though, it may be tricky with the height of the blade. One thing that might help is that the guard comes out to a bit of an hourglass all around. You can kind of see it in this picture from a higher angle, it swells just slightly as the the handle reverse tapers towards the guard from the index finger towards the blade (that might not make sense, apologies in advance lol).20190617_153623-01.jpeg
 
sheathmaker said:
Scott is right. A deep seat vertical pouch sheath is the best choice, (at least in my opinion).
Click to expand...
Thanks Paul, I yield to your and Scott's expertise, thanks for chiming in. (Your videos are excellent by the way)

Do you guys think I could try a crossdraw type of sheath that put the knife at a 30 - 45 degree angle or would that be a futile effort?
 
lessismore said:
Thanks Paul, I yield to your and Scott's expertise, thanks for chiming in. (Your videos are excellent by the way)

Do you guys think I could try a crossdraw type of sheath that put the knife at a 30 - 45 degree angle or would that be a futile effort?
Click to expand...

I think you could go 30-45 degree angle with a cross draw style sheath, but think I would use a bit heavier leather like 10-12 oz in a pancake style sheath to stiffen it up a bit for a tighter fit. Truth of the matter is I've never made a cross draw sheath so I am by no means an expert here. Dave Ferry has made lots of cross draw sheaths, I think Dave or Paul would be the guys I would ask for advise, in fact they are the guys that I ask when I have a question. Here a couple more photos of Dave's cross draw sheaths, so I know it can be done. 61T27tA.jpgnI1kkKF.jpg
 
lessismore said:
Thanks Paul, I yield to your and Scott's expertise, thanks for chiming in. (Your videos are excellent by the way)

Do you guys think I could try a crossdraw type of sheath that put the knife at a 30 - 45 degree angle or would that be a futile effort?
Click to expand...

Scott Hanson said:
I think you could go 30-45 degree angle with a cross draw style sheath, but think I would use a bit heavier leather like 10-12 oz in a pancake style sheath to stiffen it up a bit for a tighter fit. Truth of the matter is I've never made a cross draw sheath so I am by no means an expert here. Dave Ferry has made lots of cross draw sheaths, I think Dave or Paul would be the guys I would ask for advise, in fact they are the guys that I ask when I have a question. Here a couple more photos of Dave's cross draw sheaths, so I know it can be done. View attachment 1188301View attachment 1188302
Click to expand...

I like the direction this sheath is going! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Scott Hanson said:
I think you could go 30-45 degree angle with a cross draw style sheath, but think I would use a bit heavier leather like 10-12 oz in a pancake style sheath to stiffen it up a bit for a tighter fit. Truth of the matter is I've never made a cross draw sheath so I am by no means an expert here. Dave Ferry has made lots of cross draw sheaths, I think Dave or Paul would be the guys I would ask for advise, in fact they are the guys that I ask when I have a question. Here a couple more photos of Dave's cross draw sheaths, so I know it can be done. View attachment 1188301View attachment 1188302
Click to expand...
Thanks Scott, I'm gonna fool around with some designs. I think the heavier leather is a good idea too, gonna order some 9-10oz.


gunspease said:
I would like a pouch sheath not a pancake style vertical high ride.
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I'm with you on the pouch, the pancakes seem to take up a lot of real estate on the belt although Dave's design above looks extremely comfy.

You're saying strong side (lefty if I'm not mistaken), Vertical carry, Pouch Style is what you'd like to see?
 
lessismore said:
Thanks Scott, I'm gonna fool around with some designs. I think the heavier leather is a good idea too, gonna order some 9-10oz.



I'm with you on the pouch, the pancakes seem to take up a lot of real estate on the belt although Dave's design above looks extremely comfy.

You're saying strong side (lefty if I'm not mistaken), Vertical carry, Pouch Style is what you'd like to see?
Click to expand...

Honestly, I think I like pouch sheaths better than the pancake style better myself for that very same reason.
 
Don't know if there will be any thoughts about this option, not the buckstitch part, but the option of either straight up and down, or at the diagonal. Since I pretty much will be sitting in a blind, or in an atv, at an angle would work for me, but I will go along with what everyone agrees on.
This would at least give you either option, and easy for John to have the one pattern.
Just a thought.

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I'm a bit undecided on this sheath for similar reasons.

On smaller knives, I like vertical pouch sheaths for the most part, but they can be a pain when sitting (especially if you're on the ground out hunting, which I am a lot). X-loops are nice for the options they give, but I don't think that this knife/sheath is big enough to make the horizontal carry option of an x-loop so that it would fit on a 1.5" wide, 1/4" thick belt very well.

So far, I like Dennis' idea above the best. It gives a little bit of both primary options being discussed, and isn't terribly hard to incorporate into the sheath. I'd like to see the leather wrapped around the back be the full width of the welt though, for greater stability.

This brings up a good point though. Belt size. With a sheath as above, if made to fit a wide, thick leather gunbelt, it will be too loose on a smaller belt. Different stitching options for different belt sizes? Is a 1.5" wide X 1/4" thick belt pretty standard in here? That's what almost everything I wear is.
 
Now we're gettin somewhere. The more info you guys give me the better. I like the double slot idea, that's interesting.

Jared, as far as a standard belt goes, average is around 1-1/4", a heavy belt around 1-1/2", thickness usually less than 5/32" . I'm guilty of making the slots too narrow so I'm gonna loosen them up a bit so a 1-1/2" will have some play. That should let you shift it a bit when you sit down or squat.
 
I get that my belts are a bit bigger. Fully 1.5" x nearly 1/4" thick. I have to make sure that I keep that in mind with sheaths, I've had a few over the years that won't fit.

Not that everyone would want them to fit belts that big. If the loop around the back was the full size of the sheath body (or at least the full length), you could customize belt size simply by doing the stitching in different locations. Just idears...
 
I wear a 1.5" belt.
I like the X-back idea if there's enough room for it to work carrying in both horiz and vert.
Also like Dennis's idea of vert or diag above.

Don
 
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