Busse customer service and guarantee is unbelievable !! Beware stripped and polished blades

Things like this are why Busse Combat is my favorite blade manufacturer ever. The great designs and bulletproof construction don’t hurt, but it makes all the difference knowing the company stands behind their product.

The fact that Jerry told you that one was roached and sent you shop credit means everything. That says Jerry (by God) Busse didn’t want an inferior knife out there with his name on it, and he proved it.
 
I'm curious as to how someone can get a Infi blade hot enough to hurt the heat treatment. Jerry posted a while back the 425° would not hurt Infi but 500° would (re: DLC coating)
I have stripped a few and polished a couple, I normally avoid polishing near the edge and go by the rule if it's uncomfortably hot to hold let it cool some. I'm guessing somewhere below 200° but I haven't checked it.
 
I'm curious as to how someone can get a Infi blade hot enough to hurt the heat treatment. Jerry posted a while back the 425° would not hurt Infi but 500° would (re: DLC coating)
I have stripped a few and polished a couple, I normally avoid polishing near the edge and go by the rule if it's uncomfortably hot to hold let it cool some. I'm guessing somewhere below 200° but I haven't checked it.

Great question!
 
I'm curious as to how someone can get a Infi blade hot enough to hurt the heat treatment. Jerry posted a while back the 425° would not hurt Infi but 500° would (re: DLC coating)
I have stripped a few and polished a couple, I normally avoid polishing near the edge and go by the rule if it's uncomfortably hot to hold let it cool some. I'm guessing somewhere below 200° but I haven't checked it.

I used a thermal scope once to check the edge of a knife I was grinding on. The spine was cool, the middle of the blade was normal and the edge was 300 degrees. I was putting the blade in water every pass. Several more passes and the blade was normal at the spine and lukewarm in the middle and the edge was pushing over 500 degrees. I was only grinding on the edge. I could easily see burning a blade when trying to remove the coating with a belt sander. I strip my blade with chem strip, then hand sand for 10 hours. It is painful and tedious but I know I didn't burn the blade.

Awesome customer service as expected from Busse.
 
I used a thermal scope once to check the edge of a knife I was grinding on. The spine was cool, the middle of the blade was normal and the edge was 300 degrees. I was putting the blade in water every pass. Several more passes and the blade was normal at the spine and lukewarm in the middle and the edge was pushing over 500 degrees. I was only grinding on the edge. I could easily see burning a blade when trying to remove the coating with a belt sander. I strip my blade with chem strip, then hand sand for 10 hours. It is painful and tedious but I know I didn't burn the blade.

Awesome customer service as expected from Busse.
I can see that... I use Citra Strip to get the coating off. Then I use Scotch Brite by hand and sometimes hit tight spots with SB wheels on a dremal. Then hand wet sand. Finally if I want it shiny, I'll hit it with a cloth wheel and green compound, but I don't get very close to the edge and I dip it in water as soon as I start feeling it gets hot. Most of the work is on the spine and recosso areas where the bevel hasn't been ground.
 
I strip my blade with chem strip, then hand sand for 10 hours. It is painful and tedious but I know I didn't burn the blade.
Just having a chat about this exact thing - there's only one right way and that's to pop on Billy Squire and "Stroke man stroke man" When you don't get instant results you're doing it the right way.
 
Just having a chat about this exact thing - there's only one right way and that's to pop on Billy Squire and "Stroke man stroke man" When you don't get instant results you're doing it the right way.

I satinized the bottom two. The impossible part was getting rid of the dimples. It's nearly impossible by hand unless you wanna be there for 100 hours.
Tkkj48x.jpg
 
There is one way that's easier than sand paper (left, not by me), and that's sand-blasting (right):

i-tnmvVJk-X2.jpg


And I like the dimples and chatter marks on my strippers :).

Great service by Busse, of course. Respect.

True. Harbor freight sells cabinets cheap and I used 320 grit ceramic beads. That's how I did the SHBM Resinguy got from me. I could easily touch it up to.
 
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Oh boy....the stories that have been told on Busse support? ... you aint got the time, and that's a shame.... but here's a quick one. Dude here, not mentioning names, got hise knife on his mower - he's mowing the lawn, goes over it, spits it out, totally fk's his mower deck, holes in it. Posted the story - Jerry comes across it say's "Send that here" .... He kept it for a trophy, sent the dude a brand new knife. Busse-1 John Deere-0 ~ but that's just the tip. One of the best I heard of was dude shooing one with a 50BMG on edge to try splitting a bullet.... Good stuff in the archives under this heading for sure.
Ahem.... I might know that mower guy. If anyone wants to read the story, they can look it up in my posts. I was floored, both by the stupidity of running over it, but even moreso by Jerry's replacing it. Best knife company, bar none.

There is one way that's easier than sand paper (left, not by me), and that's sand-blasting (right):

i-tnmvVJk-X2.jpg


And I like the dimples and chatter marks on my strippers :).

Great service by Busse, of course. Respect.
Axe Hammer on the left? Whatever it is... DANG that thing looks good!
 
Ahem.... I might know that mower guy. If anyone wants to read the story, they can look it up in my posts. I was floored, both by the stupidity of running over it, but even moreso by Jerry's replacing it. Best knife company, bar none.


Axe Hammer on the left? Whatever it is... DANG that thing looks good!

Thanks ! Jack Hammer on the left, Axe Hammer on the right. Per BB, sheaths are compatible.
 
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