Call for Charpy toughness samples

3v is not in the same league as well heat treated 5160, 8670, Ztuff, 1v, S7, A8mod (we will see in the tests) and NZ3 (S1). Good steel, no doubt, for a medium sized knife, though.
I gotta ask and please don't take it wrong, what do you need that much toughness for? Just curious. I'm trying to mostly do kitchen knives.
 
I gotta ask and please don't take it wrong, what do you need that much toughness for? Just curious. I'm trying to mostly do kitchen knives.

When my interest in Knives started, back in 2011, I think, I was just in search of a “survival” knife, something that I could use camping or in the countryside. Thanks to the damn internet, I’ve discovered Noss tests and I was amazed by how much punishment some knives could take, namely Falkniven A1, Scrapyard Scrapper 6 and the mighty Busse FFFBM! If these knives can take that kind of punishment and be in one piece, why bother buying knives that can’t? And because he was able to finally break the three, I thought: and if there is a steel out there that can’t be broken? Silly thought, everything can be broken, but since those tests my primary goal in survival knives and choppers has been toughness.

For kitchen knives, there’s a different story! I would probably choose one made in AEB-L made by a good maker.
 
When my interest in Knives started, back in 2011, I think, I was just in search of a “survival” knife, something that I could use camping or in the countryside. Thanks to the damn internet, I’ve discovered Noss tests and I was amazed by how much punishment some knives could take, namely Falkniven A1, Scrapyard Scrapper 6 and the mighty Busse FFFBM! If these knives can take that kind of punishment and be in one piece, why bother buying knives that can’t? And because he was able to finally break the three, I thought: and if there is a steel out there that can’t be broken? Silly thought, everything can be broken, but since those tests my primary goal in survival knives and choppers has been toughness.

For kitchen knives, there’s a different story! I would probably choose one made in AEB-L made by a good maker.
That’s about what happened with me! I’ve been on a quest to find the toughest steel possible with higher attainable hardness and decent wear resistance! And now that I make and heat treat my own, it’s just cool as hell to be able to build something, and test it to destruction and see what it takes! And now I’m getting more into throwing knives, which is fun. And what use is a broken blade!
 
Man, how I envy you, rodriguez7 rodriguez7 and G Gossman Knives !!!!

What steel are you using in your throwing knives, rodriguez7 rodriguez7 ? One time, I’ve asked Roman Landes for some tough steels. He recommended 1.2714 (L6 with less carbon) and 45NiCrMo16 (I already have three knives made of it). He then asked me: “Want really tough stuff?” And he recommended: Aermet 100, Premomet, ferrium M54, NC310 and 300M. If you can find some sheets of this material there in the US, it will make some unbreakable throwers!
 
Man, how I envy you, rodriguez7 rodriguez7 and G Gossman Knives !!!!

What steel are you using in your throwing knives, rodriguez7 rodriguez7 ? One time, I’ve asked Roman Landes for some tough steels. He recommended 1.2714 (L6 with less carbon) and 45NiCrMo16 (I already have three knives made of it). He then asked me: “Want really tough stuff?” And he recommended: Aermet 100, Premomet, ferrium M54, NC310 and 300M. If you can find some sheets of this material there in the US, it will make some unbreakable throwers!
So far, A8 mod and ztuff. I have made 2 tomahawks from s7 and one from 8670. The throwing knives are more along the lines of my standard hunting knife, that has a neutral balance for throwing, batonning or whatever you want! Basically an every thing knife. Something I take camping, hunting, backpacking! I like unbreakable, or close to.
 
When my interest in Knives started, back in 2011, I think, I was just in search of a “survival” knife, something that I could use camping or in the countryside. Thanks to the damn internet, I’ve discovered Noss tests and I was amazed by how much punishment some knives could take, namely Falkniven A1, Scrapyard Scrapper 6 and the mighty Busse FFFBM! If these knives can take that kind of punishment and be in one piece, why bother buying knives that can’t? And because he was able to finally break the three, I thought: and if there is a steel out there that can’t be broken? Silly thought, everything can be broken, but since those tests my primary goal in survival knives and choppers has been toughness.

For kitchen knives, there’s a different story! I would probably choose one made in AEB-L made by a good maker.

Once you try a z-wear knife at Rc63/64 in the kitchen, it would be very difficult to use anything else, unless you needed that little bit finer edge for eel skinning, or something else crazy like that.
 
He then asked me: “Want really tough stuff?” And he recommended: Aermet 100, Premomet, ferrium M54, NC310 and 300M.
Start checking DOD surplus/salvage for T-45 aircraft tail hooks that they started making out of ferriumM54 about 6 years ago.
300M is 4340 with 1.5% silicon and 1.75% nickel. get all the round bar you want here https://www.twmetals.com/products/bars/alloy-bar/300m.html
NC310 here https://sullivansteelservice.com/home/our-steel/nc310yw/
enjoy
 
Dang!!!!! Now if we could get crazy stuff like that, but with say .75-.80 carbon instead of .40-.45........
 
Start checking DOD surplus/salvage for T-45 aircraft tail hooks that they started making out of ferriumM54 about 6 years ago.
300M is 4340 with 1.5% silicon and 1.75% nickel. get all the round bar you want here https://www.twmetals.com/products/bars/alloy-bar/300m.html
NC310 here https://sullivansteelservice.com/home/our-steel/nc310yw/
enjoy

Thanks, Scott! The problem is turning that bar into knife shape with the right temperatures, because we know forging temperatures will affect steel toughness. I would prefer that the steel came already rolled from the mill.:D
 
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