Recommendation? Case large stockman

Davis Nikolov said:
Regarding the faulty stockmans you guys mentioned above - what handle material are they ?
I’m wondering because I haven’t had a bone handled Case with uneven grinds or any issues whatsoever. That includes the 75 stockman (6375 in peach seed jiggle amber bone). Where as my plastic handled stockman (blue 4318) has so bad bladerub that when I eventually eat a bit of the straight blade by sharpening - it’s edge will start catching on the back of the coping blade.
So my theory is that they have the more experienced and careful workers on the more expensive handle materials, whereas the ones that are not so great are left to learn on the cheaper ones. Might be wrong, it’s just a thought based on my own knives.
P.S. just went back and saw that two of you specifically said 6375, so bone handled ones with problems. So my theory already has holes in it 😁. But I wonder - have anyone had similar experience to mine, or is it just luck ?
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Most of mine have been bone handles. It almost seems like they put all the work into making the outside of the knives beautiful, and the sharpening was an afterthought.
 
hsherzfeld said:
Most of mine have been bone handles. It almost seems like they put all the work into making the outside of the knives beautiful, and the sharpening was an afterthought.
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I think that is probably the case. Reminds me of Queen before they shut down, they always had a great final polish and often really attractive covers, but also often bad pretty bad fit issues and I never had one that came sharp or evenly ground.
 
Davis Nikolov said:
Regarding the faulty stockmans you guys mentioned above - what handle material are they ?
I’m wondering because I haven’t had a bone handled Case with uneven grinds or any issues whatsoever. That includes the 75 stockman (6375 in peach seed jiggle amber bone). Where as my plastic handled stockman (blue 4318) has so bad bladerub that when I eventually eat a bit of the straight blade by sharpening - it’s edge will start catching on the back of the coping blade.
So my theory is that they have the more experienced and careful workers on the more expensive handle materials, whereas the ones that are not so great are left to learn on the cheaper ones. Might be wrong, it’s just a thought based on my own knives.
P.S. just went back and saw that two of you specifically said 6375, so bone handled ones with problems. So my theory already has holes in it 😁. But I wonder - have anyone had similar experience to mine, or is it just luck ?
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Mine was specifically Smooth Red Bone…Again, I sent it back in Case and they made it right….though I wish they got it right the first time.
 
Case-6392-Premium-Stockman-1987.jpg


Another of the Case choices, this 6392 is my EDC for today. This model is the near twin of your Schrade USA 8OT. OH
 
jmh33 said:
Thanks.. 🤝 2345 1/2..
John :)
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John, that Case cattle knife (or cigar stockman, or whatever it's called :rolleyes:) is really cool.:cool::cool::thumbsup:

I don't recall seeing that pattern before, at least not in Case models over the past 10 years. Do you know if they still make them, and if not, when they quit making them?? Thanks!

- GT
 
5K Qs said:
John, that Case cattle knife (or cigar stockman, or whatever it's called :rolleyes:) is really cool.:cool::cool::thumbsup:

I don't recall seeing that pattern before, at least not in Case models over the past 10 years. Do you know if they still make them, and if not, when they quit making them?? Thanks!

- GT
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They quit in 1966 but according to Steve Pfeiffers book they had very limited runs after 1980. Doesn’t say how many or any other info!!
And Thanks!! 🤝👍
John 😁
 
jmh33 said:
They quit in 1966 but according to Steve Pfeiffers book they had very limited runs after 1980. Doesn’t say how many or any other info!!
And Thanks!! 🤝👍
John 😁
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Thanks for the very informative reply, John. :cool::thumbsup:
I should probably buy Pfeiffer's book someday, instead of checking it out of the public library 2 or 3 times per year. :rolleyes:

- GT
 
5K Qs said:
Thanks for the very informative reply, John. :cool::thumbsup:
I should probably buy Pfeiffer's book someday, instead of checking it out of the public library 2 or 3 times per year. :rolleyes:

- GT
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Yes you should!! Mine stays on the table next to my recliner!! And is dog eared!! 😂😂
Shoulda bought 2!!! 🤔🤣🤣
John 😁
 
Case_G6345_SS_Cattle_Knife_-_1987_(1).jpg


jmh33 said:
They quit in 1966 but according to Steve Pfeiffers book they had very limited runs after 1980. Doesn’t say how many or any other info!!
And Thanks!! 🤝👍
John 😁
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Here is a Case G6347 built in 1987. Nice knife, all I have seen were made for the NKCA, they come up often enough for sale that I wouldn’t consider them rare. I prefer the original version that John has over this re-issue. OH
 
Primble said:
I have had a lot of practice over the years, so I fear a might leave out an important step and get blamed by somebody. If you ever give it a try, start on a cheap knife and always do it by hand, checking results often. As long as you do it that way, almost anything can be undone. In the case of the knife above, I used small strips of 600 grit sandpaper wrapped tightly around a Super Eraser and the back side of the blades resting on a second Super Eraser. Using light pressure, work in one direction from the tang to the tip until it all looks uniform. It should not take very long. Then I used Scotchbrite Ultra Fine to give it a little more luster, again in one direction.

I taped the bone with painters tape and used the Super Eraser ( mild abrasive) across the bolsters and shield to matte them down and then gently buff it by hand briefly with 0000 steel wool to get the sheen I like. Finally ..... you only want to change the finish, not remove a lot of metal. It probably took me almost as long to tape up the bone and shield area as it did to change the finish ....... again not a lot of time. Sandpaper not used on the bolsters and shield. 😊

Fingerprints are nearly invisible with this finish versus mirror finishes.
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That gives me all I need to know. Thanks. I won't have any problem with that. I've repaired the finish on several brushed knives with the described method, and added directional marks to a stainless Ruger Blackhawk grip frame.
 
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