COLD STEEL SRK 3V 6"
- Thread starter LJTanzer
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It will do what you need it to
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SRK in any steel is a good knife. You might also look at the SRK Compact.
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ive got 2 of the 3v's. got more srks in other steels. nothing bad to say about the knife. the sheath can be okay to a problem. most I've gotten are okay. had one that was a problem with dulling the knife. hopefully you don't get one of those.
LimpCroissant
Platinum Member
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I've got me an old Carbon V SRK and I really like it. It's a heck of a knife really.
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I have both the SK-5 and 3V versions.
The SK-5 version is hollowground saber. The 3V is flat ground saber.
The point on the SK-5 version is needle-like. Partly because of the flat grind, the point of the 3V version is much more robust, though it is still "plenty pointy". (I may copyright that phrase. It's got a nice ring to it.)
If I wanted a weapon which would slice and pierce, I might promote the SK5 version. For a survival knife, I'd be more interested in the 3V version. The 3V version weighs more, but with the flat grind I think it would be more suitable for "stuff".
The SK-5 version is hollowground saber. The 3V is flat ground saber.
The point on the SK-5 version is needle-like. Partly because of the flat grind, the point of the 3V version is much more robust, though it is still "plenty pointy". (I may copyright that phrase. It's got a nice ring to it.)
If I wanted a weapon which would slice and pierce, I might promote the SK5 version. For a survival knife, I'd be more interested in the 3V version. The 3V version weighs more, but with the flat grind I think it would be more suitable for "stuff".
SwissHeritageCo
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Honestly I think the SRK compact is probably the more functional general use knife.
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- Oct 29, 2023
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I bought one in 3V. I had to do over 40 hours of sharpening to reduce the bevel to 19.5 degrees from 29 degrees on each side of the blade. I would have preferred going to 19 or 18 degrees, but I ran out of motivation and decided 19.5 would work. I’ll never do another major reprofile like that ever again.
The 3V steel gets very sharp and holds the edge. It’s a thick hunk of steel. It has large square rubber handle that’s suited to large or XL hands. The sheath that’ll come with it too small for the knife and it’s garbage. I bought an aftermarket leather sheath for it.
I like the knife and the steel. It’s a big banger knife. The swedge on it came from the factory sharp enough to scrape wood and is darn near a false edge. It’s a good looking knife. But man did it take a lot of work to thin down and even the blade bevel.
The 3V steel gets very sharp and holds the edge. It’s a thick hunk of steel. It has large square rubber handle that’s suited to large or XL hands. The sheath that’ll come with it too small for the knife and it’s garbage. I bought an aftermarket leather sheath for it.
I like the knife and the steel. It’s a big banger knife. The swedge on it came from the factory sharp enough to scrape wood and is darn near a false edge. It’s a good looking knife. But man did it take a lot of work to thin down and even the blade bevel.
CVamberbonehead
Gold Member
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I had an sk5 one, and I thought it kind of sucked.
Its really thick and the sheath dulls the knife. The handle is a big rubber rectangle that peobably woeks with gloves but will give you a blister pretty fast on your bare hands (like pretty much every rubber handle). The knife was kind of a heavy chunk moving around on my belt.
My biggest problem really was the thick blade that just struggles with basic stuff like cutting up an onion. It probably works great for bashing through wood like a Neanderthal but even then the rubber handle will get destroyed eventually.
Its really thick and the sheath dulls the knife. The handle is a big rubber rectangle that peobably woeks with gloves but will give you a blister pretty fast on your bare hands (like pretty much every rubber handle). The knife was kind of a heavy chunk moving around on my belt.
My biggest problem really was the thick blade that just struggles with basic stuff like cutting up an onion. It probably works great for bashing through wood like a Neanderthal but even then the rubber handle will get destroyed eventually.
SALTY
Gold Member
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I have a few SRKs, in both carbon streel and 3V; I like them. Notwithstanding my liking them, they are not the end all/be all of a field knife.
Yes you could field dress a deer with one and yes it could get you through food prep I suppose and you could wack limbs of trees and split kindling but, IMHO, the SRK in wither steel does not excel at any of them although it's adequate or better.
As for the handle - it's love or hate; if you are involved in a short task session or hands are wet the yes, the handle is fine but if an extented task session is, (pardon the pun), at hand, then the Becker approach of using eronomic purchase instead of contact texture is kinder to the skin. With gloves it probably doesn't matter.
I do like the both SRKs 6" and Compact in both carbon steel and 3V and while it may suffice as a Jack of All Trades in the woods, I prefer other options. Just by way of example, as an admitted Beckerhead, the BK-9 processes wood like nobody's business and the smaller "Tweeners" (BK16, 17, 18, 19 sized models) perform most other camp tasks - especially food prep with the smooth finish models.
There are other knives at different proce points that compare fvaorable and a bunch better at highger price points but, as stated, the SRK in 3V is good value. despite what I perceive as shortcomings for some tasks.
YMMV. Happy Hunting!
Yes you could field dress a deer with one and yes it could get you through food prep I suppose and you could wack limbs of trees and split kindling but, IMHO, the SRK in wither steel does not excel at any of them although it's adequate or better.
As for the handle - it's love or hate; if you are involved in a short task session or hands are wet the yes, the handle is fine but if an extented task session is, (pardon the pun), at hand, then the Becker approach of using eronomic purchase instead of contact texture is kinder to the skin. With gloves it probably doesn't matter.
I do like the both SRKs 6" and Compact in both carbon steel and 3V and while it may suffice as a Jack of All Trades in the woods, I prefer other options. Just by way of example, as an admitted Beckerhead, the BK-9 processes wood like nobody's business and the smaller "Tweeners" (BK16, 17, 18, 19 sized models) perform most other camp tasks - especially food prep with the smooth finish models.
There are other knives at different proce points that compare fvaorable and a bunch better at highger price points but, as stated, the SRK in 3V is good value. despite what I perceive as shortcomings for some tasks.
YMMV. Happy Hunting!
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No motivation after 40 hours of sharpening? Weird.
Seriously tho - you should consider coarser stones/abrasives - that’s WAY too long. At $20/hour (current minimum wage for fast food employees in CA) you could have just bought yourself an $800 custom with a proper edge.
Re The SRK - I like the design for the money, especially as a fighting/combat knife, but I’ve seen video/reports of a couple of Trailmaster handles separating slightly after chopping, so that’s why I’ve avoided this type of handle from Cold Steel.
Consider checking out some of the offerings from Scrap Yard knives. Not much more money but I recon the handles, while similar, are more ergonomic and durable for utility/woods use.
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I have quite a few field knives, and I have a 3v 6” SRK. The knife is pretty great for a field knife to do most tasks you might need to perform. The blade shape allows for many tasks and it is tough enough to literally beat on. I am lucky that my sheath actually is lined up correctly and is not dulling it. I have a vintage Trailmaster and had an old SRK in Carbon V that I put through the wringer multiple times and did great- so I feel confident in the handle holding up. Great knife, great steel, can be found under $100- great buy. I highly recommend it. For similar price point, I am a Terava fan.
Sorry for hang in your Thread,
I asked myself nearly the same Question.
Let me drop in some Knives.
I already have a Esee 6(uncoated, convexed Bevel, black Patina) and an Fox 140XXL with Convexed Bevel
So would somebody recomend one of the following three , if i have the two above?
Or should i sell them and buy one of the three?
CS SRK 3V (209€)
Fällk. A1X (210€)
Joker Nomad 6.5 (129€)
I am from Europe
My generel Knives to hang in the Woods are at the moment:
Gunny Magnacut
Knafs Lulu Magnacut
Lionsteel M5 in CPM 3V
So i want them more for Wood Tasks, then Hunting..
I asked myself nearly the same Question.
Let me drop in some Knives.
I already have a Esee 6(uncoated, convexed Bevel, black Patina) and an Fox 140XXL with Convexed Bevel
So would somebody recomend one of the following three , if i have the two above?
Or should i sell them and buy one of the three?
CS SRK 3V (209€)
Fällk. A1X (210€)
Joker Nomad 6.5 (129€)
I am from Europe
My generel Knives to hang in the Woods are at the moment:
Gunny Magnacut
Knafs Lulu Magnacut
Lionsteel M5 in CPM 3V
So i want them more for Wood Tasks, then Hunting..
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2023
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- 58
Yup, that’s 40 hours of using stones, including the 50 grit diamond stone that KME calls, “the beast”. 3V steel is tough, it took forever even with the beast, and then I had to re-reprofile the blade after the beast because it chewed up that edge something fierce. Never again.No motivation after 40 hours of sharpening? Weird.
Seriously tho - you should consider coarser stones/abrasives - that’s WAY too long. At $20/hour (current minimum wage for fast food employees in CA) you could have just bought yourself an $800 custom with a proper edge.
Re The SRK - I like the design for the money, especially as a fighting/combat knife, but I’ve seen video/reports of a couple of Trailmaster handles separating slightly after chopping, so that’s why I’ve avoided this type of handle from Cold Steel.
Consider checking out some of the offerings from Scrap Yard knives. Not much more money but I recon the handles, while similar, are more ergonomic and durable for utility/woods use.
But man, that finished and even 3V steel results in a very sharp blade. I like the steel, and CPM.
SwissHeritageCo
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Jan 8, 2021
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- 2,007
The actual edge bevel on mine arrived thinner than I expected and was screaming sharp but I didn't measure it.
The sheath has nodules (no idea why) on the inside/spine side of the sheath that you can file flat for added clearance so the edge doesn't connect.
I sold mine but still think it's an insane value when purchased on sale and the sheath ended up being great. Still don't fully trust rubber handles though.
Sk5 has a pretty high Rockwell and tends to just crack/break.
A lot of Singhs I know do carry the Srk Compact though.
It's cheap, light, and decent for what you pay up here.
The regular srk just has a weirdly fat handle.
The recon tanto with a leather sheath would be alright.
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I think for self defense that a leather sheath is almost essential.
A lot of Singhs I know do carry the Srk Compact though.
It's cheap, light, and decent for what you pay up here.
The regular srk just has a weirdly fat handle.
The recon tanto with a leather sheath would be alright.
--
I think for self defense that a leather sheath is almost essential.
- Joined
- Dec 24, 2020
- Messages
- 39
I have both the SRK and SRK Compact in 3V, and they are very competent blades. I don't love the sheaths, but they work. I haven't carried the SRK as much as the Compact just because the Compact can do 95% of what the full-size can do, but it's lighter and integrates with my gear more easily.