Crosscut Saw Thread

[Jim Thode]

....My heavy supplementary handle was made out of a 5/8" bolt which I kerfed by putting 2 hacksaw blades side-by-side on a single frame. A cut off 20 penny nail made the pin. A large square nut locks it on the saw. A turned wood sleeve is glued over the top of the bolt. I posted a picture of it earlier in this thread.

Square_peg, I like the looks of your home made supplementary handle. Do you use the large nut to tighten the handle on the saw?

I've made one sup. handle but have thought a little about coming up with a design that folks could make with limited tools. I like the double hacksaw trick to cut the slot. Mine works well but required a welder, metal/wood lathe, drill press and cutoff saw to make.

Jim

 

[Square_peg]

I grabbed that from the USFS manual
New Tools For Old Saws
Under the Drawings catagory

I have the hard copy but this link hopefully works to the pdf I found and took the screenshot of.

Thanks. I already had a copy of that on my computer. I'd just forgotten about it.

 

[Square_peg]

Square_peg, I like the looks of your home made supplementary handle. Do you use the large nut to tighten the handle on the saw?

I've made one sup. handle but have thought a little about coming up with a design that folks could make with limited tools. I like the double hacksaw trick to cut the slot.

Yes, the large square nut tightens the handle on the saw. You can do pretty well with just hand tight but you have to keep an eye on it. Wrench tight is better. Note the washer under the bolt so that the saw doesn't cut into it.

The hacksaw thing is something I discovered on accident once when I installed 2 blades that were stuck together. I made a mental note that 2 blades would fit on a hacksaw pin and have used the technique a few times prior to this.

I just ordered some old film tins off ebay and I think I'll try making a weight when I have the time.

 

[Square_peg]

My heavy supplementary handle was made out of a 5/8" bolt which I kerfed by putting 2 hacksaw blades side-by-side on a single frame. A cut off 20 penny nail made the pin. A large square nut locks it on the saw. A turned wood sleeve is glued over the top of the bolt.

That may have been a 40d or 60d nail. I recall that it was almost 1/4" in diameter. I've since included that handle with a saw I traded to a friend so I no longer have it.

 

[trailtime]

Depending on your bolt size, you can cut the threads off a log-shanked Grade 8 machine bolt, either 3/16 or 1/4 and use it as a pin. Much less likely to deform. I usually make these about a dozen at a time, as it's much easier to run multiples once you have your tooling and depth stops set up.

Self-aligning center punch


Drill your hole


Hacksaw the sides from a square nut and chisel out a slot that lines up with your bolt hole


Run the bolt into the nut to make sure of the fit and backfill the nut slot with JB weld Quikwood epoxy putty, let cure, sand and finish.

Use a thick washer as wide as your handle and round the bottom edge of the handle to prevent splintering. Works best with hickory.

 

[Square_peg]

I like that because the handle itself contains the lock nut.

 

[John A. Larsen]

I find all this information on cross cut saws very interesting and informative. I would think if you are a "Prepper" living off the grid (in a forested area) that you should have a good cross cut saw so when you run out of gas for your chain saw, you are still in business. John

 

[phantomknives]

you mean prepper?

 

[Jim Thode]

.....Run the bolt into the nut to make sure of the fit and backfill the nut slot with JB weld Quikwood epoxy putty, let cure, sand and finish.

Use a thick washer as wide as your handle and round the bottom edge of the handle to prevent splintering. Works best with hickory.

What diameter of bolt/rod do you use? Many factory ones have a swelled end where the pin fits but that is harder to make.
Jim

 

[Jim Thode]

I have come across some pictures on the internet showing a Western style handle on 4' one man saws that have replaced the "D" handle. Does that application give any advantage or benefit to the 4' one man saw?
I will not be running my saws with a partner. No one is jumping to the front of the line for that position here, except my 6 year old son...which is great but not exactly safe yet.

Thanks guys

The advantage or disadvantage of a western handle on a one man saw depends on a bunch of things, including the condition of the original D handle, what is being cut and who you talk to. Some western handles are likely on one mans saws because the original D handle broke and it is quick and easy to use a western handle. For just cutting down from the top like simple logs and cutting firewood a sawbuck a D handle is good but for more complicated cutting like underbucking a western handle is likely better (my opinion). Then there are some sawyers that just like one or the other, like some like a Ford or Chevy.
Jim

 

[Miller '72]

Thank you Jim.

You broke that down perfectly for me, I appreciate the examples.

If I can I will try both over time and see for myself...Chevy or Ford

 

[300Six]

I find all this information on cross cut saws very interesting and informative. I would think if you are a "Pepper" living off the grid (in a forested area) that you should have a good cross cut saw so when you run out of gas for your chain saw, you are still in business. John

To this day I do not have fond memories of evenings and weekends spent at one end of a 2 man saw in the early 1960s. My dad had purchased a 1/2 acre forested lot and there was oodles to do before and after the driveway and foundation went in and the house went up. For me it was genuine relief when 'the old boy' put that thing (it was a Disston) out at the end of the driveway on a garbage day not long after being loaned a newly-befriended neighbour's new-fangled McCullough chainsaw.
However from the standpoint of nostalgic, environmentally friendly, and eminently useful, I must admit to enjoying the infectious enthusiasm that has become contagious throughout this thread. My dear old dad would probably shift in his urn were he to discover I had suddenly taken a shine to 'misery whips'. I don't see it happening over the next while but you never know.
However, to have curious people be introduced to something that they can actually take pride in to accomplish daunting wood work tasks, without having to outfit themselves with the latest/greatest fashionable electric, cordless or gas powered gizmos, is a wonderful thing. Thanks Gents!

 

[John A. Larsen]

phantom knives, that was a spelling test, you passed! (I did not). John

 

[trailtime]

What diameter of bolt/rod do you use?

Lately I've been using the drilled/threaded/slotted 3/8" bolts from the Ebay seller below. He will give you a discount if you order a batch. I used to use the big 1/2" bolts from Flicker Forge, but they were pricey and the size was overkill for an aux handle. I get my 3/16" grade 8 pin bolts from Air Parts: http://www.airpartsinc.com/1191_AN3_BOLTS_3-16_(10-32)_DRILLED.htm

 

[Jim Thode]

Lately I've been using the drilled/threaded/slotted 3/8" bolts from the Ebay seller below. He will give you a discount if you order a batch. I used to use the big 1/2" bolts from Flicker Forge, but they were pricey and the size was overkill for an aux handle. I get my 3/16" grade 8 pin bolts from Air Parts: http://www.airpartsinc.com/1191_AN3_BOLTS_3-16_(10-32)_DRILLED.htm

Cool, I did not know they sold those handle bolts. A less expensive, more readily available, better griping head and just as hard pin would be a #10 -24 Socket Head Cap Screw that was long enough to cut off the threads. Probably could find them at a local hardware store and they have to be hard (grade 8) or the allen wrench will not hold.

 

[Square_peg]

I find all this information on cross cut saws very interesting and informative. I would think if you are a "Prepper" living off the grid (in a forested area) that you should have a good cross cut saw so when you run out of gas for your chain saw, you are still in business. John

My first was bought as a back up to the chainsaw for the zombie apocalypse. Once I got it sharpened and tuned I was blown away by how fast it cut. That was about the time I was getting into trail maintenance. Saws were prevalent in trailwork and I became hooked on using them.

 

[trailtime]

A less expensive, more readily available, better griping head and just as hard pin would be a #10 -24 Socket Head Cap Screw that was long enough to cut off the threads. Probably could find them at a local hardware store and they have to be hard (grade 8) or the allen wrench will not hold.

That's a great idea Jim. I never knew that cap screws were grade 8, but it makes sense, and certainly easier to grip than a round head rivet.

 

[Jim Thode]

Using Trailtime's example - A new supplemental handle. The only hickory I had around was an old Model T Ford wheel spoke (about 1925 model year car). I used a cross dowel barrel nut in the handle with one side exposed and contoured to the shape of the handle.

The parts:

The competed parts:

Done with more handle parts in the background:

Jim

 

[phantomknives]

Using Trailtime's example - A new supplemental handle. The only hickory I had around was an old Model T Ford wheel spoke (about 1925 model year car). I used a cross dowel barrel nut in the handle with one side exposed and contoured to the shape of the handle.

The parts:

The competed parts:

Done with more handle parts in the background:

Jim

now that my good sir, is real neato. it'll run heads and start a conversation

 

[Miller '72]

Using Trailtime's example - A new supplemental handle. The only hickory I had around was an old Model T Ford wheel spoke (about 1925 model year car). I used a cross dowel barrel nut in the handle with one side exposed and contoured to the shape of the handle.

The parts:

The competed parts:

Done with more handle parts in the background:

Jim

That sir is amazing craftsmanship.
Great repurpose!