Crosscut Saw Thread
- Thread starter G-pig
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,192
Ahhh that’s too funny. Me too!
Looks like they were delivered about an hour ago, I gotta go pick them up.
Looks like they were delivered about an hour ago, I gotta go pick them up.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,727
I bet they're malleable.
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,727
Checking my stock I have 1 Sells-style handle. It appears to have 1/2" threads and a broken wing nut. I found threads of 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" on my saws. I guess it's best not to assume you have something standard but to actually measure before your order. 
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2017
- Messages
- 1,001
Indeed, this was a stab in the dark! Couldn't argue with the price, figure they're good to have on hand owing to scarcity.
If they don't fit the hoop on this (probably) Atkins #9 I have quite a few hoop handles. Could probably swap just the hoop out if the length is right and the threads are 7/16-14.
Let me know if any of your 7/16" handles need a wingnut!
If they don't fit the hoop on this (probably) Atkins #9 I have quite a few hoop handles. Could probably swap just the hoop out if the length is right and the threads are 7/16-14.
Let me know if any of your 7/16" handles need a wingnut!
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,192
Well just for a test I tried them on the mismatched handles from that 10’ saw and they fit on one of them.
Quite a bit of minor variation on them.
Quite a bit of minor variation on them.
rjdankert
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2011
- Messages
- 2,568
Not THOSE roll up saws, but FWIW just came across this on Facebook:
https://swablue.com/collections/frontpage/products/gardening-pocket-chainsaw
". . . It cuts through trees so easily that even seniors suffering from arthritis have used it to cut through trees many times their size. . .
- Chain length: 65CM
. . ."
Should I get one?
senior. check
arthritis. check
size (circumference of my waist) is 30 inches. check
65 centimeter = 25.590 551 181 inch. check
Holy smokes! I could probably cut down any tree in Michigan with one of those babies. arthritis. check
size (circumference of my waist) is 30 inches. check
65 centimeter = 25.590 551 181 inch. check
Bob
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,192
I scored some new handles! A few of which I’m hoping to get some identification help with...
This pair?
And this one? (It is so nice feeling, Super smooth thumb screw!)
I was also able to get a pair of J Sells!
This pair?
And this one? (It is so nice feeling, Super smooth thumb screw!)
I was also able to get a pair of J Sells!
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 105
Very nice handles and saw tools!I scored some new handles! A few of which I’m hoping to get some identification help with...
This pair?
I have seen these handles in an old catalog..... circa 1900, but I still have not been able to find them again! "Senior moments" are all to frequent anymore!
I'm still looking!
The "twist face" saw hammers are a very good find as well!
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
- Messages
- 105
Cutting firewood in the backyard......
I had to take down a Noble Fir a couple weeks ago..... this tree was planted in 1974, and is 34" diameter at the stump, and 90' tall!
I have been using several different saws, some don't get out of the shop very often..... this is a 7 ft. Simonds 503 Royal Chinook, and it still cuts quite well!
Murphy, the wifes Silver Poodle/Black Lab 95 lb. "doodle dog" likes to "help"!
I had to take down a Noble Fir a couple weeks ago..... this tree was planted in 1974, and is 34" diameter at the stump, and 90' tall!
I have been using several different saws, some don't get out of the shop very often..... this is a 7 ft. Simonds 503 Royal Chinook, and it still cuts quite well!
Murphy, the wifes Silver Poodle/Black Lab 95 lb. "doodle dog" likes to "help"!
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,192
Thanks for the effort! I’m looking as well but have not found anything even similar.
The other hammer in that shot is a beaut! I’ll post it in the hammer thread.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2018
- Messages
- 1,874
Here's my Disston "economy" saw. I sanded both sides of the teeth especially the back side of each cutter. Not in exact order but I jointed it, polished the gullets, filed the rakers but no swaging this time, filed, sharpened and set the cutters. It's far from perfect but I'm still learning! It cuts well. Doesn't drag or get fetched up and cuts fairly quickly. Here's some pics!
After jointing; Almost all the rakers were higher than the cutters.
The noodles are a bit fuzzy. I think this is due to serrations on the cutters right? Rakers are set +/- .0012(i meant .012).
Set is at a minimum.
I welcome any tips from you cross cut gurus! Thanks!
Edit; I always think of something to add!
In the third to last pic, the close up of the raker I see a flat spot on the tip of a cutter! I can't believe it! Haha. I thought I had been SO careful... I'll have to look again for more now. Lol.
After jointing; Almost all the rakers were higher than the cutters.
The noodles are a bit fuzzy. I think this is due to serrations on the cutters right? Rakers are set +/- .0012(i meant .012).
Set is at a minimum.
I welcome any tips from you cross cut gurus! Thanks!
Edit; I always think of something to add!
In the third to last pic, the close up of the raker I see a flat spot on the tip of a cutter! I can't believe it! Haha. I thought I had been SO careful... I'll have to look again for more now. Lol.
Last edited:
Yankee Josh,
It looks like your saw is cutting pretty good. I do see a few whiskers on the cuttings and that may be due to the smaller and maybe softer log. You wrote that the rakers were set at 0.0012. Did you really mean 0.0012"? It would be more common to be about 0.012".
Also in the 4th photo from the last it looks like there may be a flat area on the tip of the raker. If it is, they should be pretty sharp.
It looks like your saw is cutting pretty good. I do see a few whiskers on the cuttings and that may be due to the smaller and maybe softer log. You wrote that the rakers were set at 0.0012. Did you really mean 0.0012"? It would be more common to be about 0.012".
Also in the 4th photo from the last it looks like there may be a flat area on the tip of the raker. If it is, they should be pretty sharp.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2018
- Messages
- 1,874
Yes I meant .012"! I noticed that flat spot in that photo right after I finished posting. I haven't had time to go over them again. It just goes to show the importance of a proper set up... lighting included! In a way I'm actually rather pleased to see a flat spot. I can always take more off and that just shows I was being conservative.
That log is a big leaf popple so yeah it's really soft. I'll give it a try in some oak and see how it does. Thanks for your input! Much appreciated!
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2012
- Messages
- 13,727
The wood looks green so the rakers are probably taking a little more than they would from dry wood. That could explain the whiskers. But you might want to take them a tad lower, maybe .014.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2018
- Messages
- 1,874
Afternoon all! I got home from work a little early today so I spent a half hour or so going over the cutters and rakers again. There are NO more flat spots. Or they are so infinitesimal that I just didn't bother. It cuts a little better than yesterday I think. I cut another 4 cookies off;
One thing I find interesting is that the chip pile in front is comprised of longer noodles! Here's the front pile;
And the rear pile;
I think it may be a technique thing and not an inconsistent filing thing. The rear pile is much longer so it looks like I pull the saw much faster than I push it. I'll have to give it a go tomorrow and try to go a tad slower on the pull cut. I will say though it cuts damn good! I am very happy with the speed at which it cuts. I have long arms and a 48"saw is really too short for me. Even though this is a relatively small tree I'm using every inch of saw and have to be careful not to pull back so far that I pinch the front teeth upon starting my push stroke.
Thank you for that suggestion! I think I'll wait for awhile before I lower the rakers though. I'm happy with where it is and feel like I need to leave well enough alone. Haha. I'll try it on a different saw or this one the next time it needs some tlc. I need to find a pin gauge as I had to modify my Atkins jointer/raker gauge to make it work for me. The raker gauge part isn't adjustable and it would put the rakers WAY too far down. Like 1/4"+ below the cutters. Anyhow I've rambled enough! Just wanted to give an update and I wrote a short story! Lol. Have a great afternoon everyone!
And the rear pile;
I think it may be a technique thing and not an inconsistent filing thing. The rear pile is much longer so it looks like I pull the saw much faster than I push it. I'll have to give it a go tomorrow and try to go a tad slower on the pull cut. I will say though it cuts damn good! I am very happy with the speed at which it cuts. I have long arms and a 48"saw is really too short for me. Even though this is a relatively small tree I'm using every inch of saw and have to be careful not to pull back so far that I pinch the front teeth upon starting my push stroke.
Thank you for that suggestion! I think I'll wait for awhile before I lower the rakers though. I'm happy with where it is and feel like I need to leave well enough alone. Haha. I'll try it on a different saw or this one the next time it needs some tlc. I need to find a pin gauge as I had to modify my Atkins jointer/raker gauge to make it work for me. The raker gauge part isn't adjustable and it would put the rakers WAY too far down. Like 1/4"+ below the cutters. Anyhow I've rambled enough! Just wanted to give an update and I wrote a short story! Lol. Have a great afternoon everyone!
Looks pretty good from here.
A tiny flat spot is ideal, so small it can just be seen. That's how you know all are the same height. Once they're gone, who knows. It's a fine line, for sure.
I have found that single bucking, I cut more on the push, the opposite of double bucking of course. So your piles make sense to me.
A tiny flat spot is ideal, so small it can just be seen. That's how you know all are the same height. Once they're gone, who knows. It's a fine line, for sure.
I have found that single bucking, I cut more on the push, the opposite of double bucking of course. So your piles make sense to me.
One thing I find interesting is that the chip pile in front is comprised of longer noodles! Here's the front pile;
And the rear pile;
Yes, when single bucking the saw almost always cuts more on the push stroke then the pull stroke. This is caused by the orientation of the handle that put more down pressure on the push stroke then the pull stroke. If you can push down on the pull stroke it will cut more uniformly or if you double buck with the same saw it will likely cut the same in both directions. I've tried adding a weight on the free end that that will make it cut more on the pull stroke. Adding a weight has been tried in completion sawing at one time but I understand that the rules were change so that added weights on the free end are not allowed now.
When sawing for speed I normally put my "free" hand on the back of the saw and push down quite hard on the pull stroke. I also use rubber gloves to get a good grip on the back of the saw. It does make a difference.
Another interesting thing about single bucking, it you look very carefully you may notice that the saw will cut a little to the left. This is more common on larger logs but not usually enough to cause any binding or a problem. When I first noticed this I wondered why that was, at first I thought maybe the saw was not filed correctly with maybe more set on one side then the other. When i reversed the saw it would still cut to the left a little. I also saw the same effect when switching my dominant hand, it always cut a little to the left. I finally noted that the cutter directly in front of the raker is almost always on the left and because of that it cuts a little deeper then the next cutter on the right. It makes sense that the cutter that cuts deeper would tend to pull the saw a little in that direction and my experience seems to verify that. Then the question becomes, why are almost all cutters in front of the raker on the left side? I think I've seen one off brand saw the first cutter on the right side. Maybe reversing every other set of cutters would make sense and eliminate the effect totally.