Recommendation? CruWear or s30v on PM2?

S30V has been more then adequate for my EDC purposes

I think this is the key. The longer I use different knives/styles/steels ans lurk on forums, the more convinced I am that the wild disparities in a knife/steel’s performance is due to the huge spread in how and what people are cutting. I hate S30V because I have chipped it so much. But I am about 90% sure it’s simply the wrong steel for how I use my EDC. Any quality steel (assuming good heat tread and design) will perform well SOMEWHERE... but maybe not on my belt or in my pocket.

Just my unqualified opinion.
 
Just curious, but what are you doing to chip out the blade? I have not experienced this with s30v under normal use. I actually chipped My m4 GB prying up a staple a few weeks ago. Then again....I wouldn’t do that same thing with a PM2.

I think this is the key. The longer I use different knives/styles/steels ans lurk on forums, the more convinced I am that the wild disparities in a knife/steel’s performance is due to the huge spread in how and what people are cutting. I hate S30V because I have chipped it so much. But I am about 90% sure it’s simply the wrong steel for how I use my EDC. Any quality steel (assuming good heat tread and design) will perform well SOMEWHERE... but maybe not on my belt or in my pocket.

Just my unqualified opinion.
 
what are you doing to chip out the blade?

The only two chips that I remember specifically was one I noticed after cutting a plastic binding (I don’t know what they’re called, but it was holding a small shipping box together). The other was after cutting some tubular nylon webbing... that was when I moved away from S30V.
 
Interesting. I have made similar cuts to materials like that and did not have the same experience. I just cut some of the plastic binding off of some new rubber air hose that I just bought. I actually cut up a tire sidewall with an s30v military a few years back. There is a thread somewhere on here that I created. I know I have read in the past that people had this experience with Spyderco s30v. I have beat the snot out of benchmade s30v and did not experience it either. I actually moved away from it for a long time and stuck with M4 and other steels. But I figured I would give it another try this time around. So far so good.

The only two chips that I remember specifically was one I noticed after cutting a plastic binding (I don’t know what they’re called, but it was holding a small shipping box together). The other was after cutting some tubular nylon webbing... that was when I moved away from S30V.
 
I have made similar cuts to materials like that and did not have the same experience

Yeah, that's one of the reasons I kind of think it has to do with EXACTLY how you use the knife. In my head the nylon webbing is just inexplicable. It's abrasive so I would expect it to dull. But chip? It must have been the way I held the knife (maybe I put lateral force on the edge?), the heat treat in that exact spot, or something weird. No biggie, there are a lot of great steels out there that I really like and work perfectly for what I do. Honestly I still think S30V is a fine steel, it just isn't ideal for me.
 
I've found S30V to be plenty tough, but it loses its razor edge very fast for me, so for my EDCs I prefer something that stays sharp longer. But, as people say around here, it's a very balanced steel with a good mix pf properties.
 
Thanks everyone for putting their opinions/experience forward. I am starting to lean more towards s30v especially for the corrosion resistance and price compared to CruWear. but my only concern is chipping, how badly and how easily does the stuff chip? specifically on a pm2

Edit: sorry if Im asking the same questions over again
 
If you continue to have chipping with any steel change the geometry. All the steels Spyderco uses are good knife steels. Some of us just have different tastes and needs and yes, skill and experience levels.
 
Well....... yesterday I was cutting up some thick cardboard. About 1/2” thick stuff and it was hard going through. Afterwards the edge on my s30v PM2 has a spot that looks like it chipped/rolled pretty good. I can honestly say this is the first time I have experienced this with s30v.
 
My particular PM2 is chippy. It's in S30V.

I've been so unimpressed with my particular PM2's steel that I don't want to buy another knife in S30V - even though I did, a Para 3.

Maybe it's just mine. Most people don't seem to have this issue.

I'd love another PM2 in a different steel.
 
If your edge is chipping or rolling this could be from the factory getting the edge to hot when they ground it. After you sharpen it a few time you will be into fresh metal and edge should perform better for you. Give it a try and report back. The worst that will happen is that you get to practice your sharpening skills.

JonesE
 
I have a Canis in S30V and the stock edge rolled like crazy. I hit it a few times with medium stones on my sharpmaker followed with a strop and so far it's performing well. It's clearly not in the range of my M390 Hinderers or my MaxaMet PM2 beater but it's a good solid steel.
 
I’m planning to give that a try. I took it to my Spyderco medium bench stone for about 15 minutes. The chip is not totally out, but smaller than before I started. It’s back to shaving sharp right now. I am going to use it a bit more and see what happens.
 
It is well known that a factory fresh S30v edge is usually weak from overheating. After getting through the weak steel (about 5 full sharpenings, not just touch ups) you should see a huge improvement in edge retention and stability. My S30v shaman dulled pretty quickly at first, but after using it and sharpening it for a while it has become pretty amazing. I haven't touched the edge in weeks despite carrying it everyday, using it at work, doing stupid stuff in the yard with sticks and branches.

I think some people don't spend enough time with it to really get the best out of it.

Speaking of edge damage, my xm-18 was terrible at first. Tons of damage from just a little cardboard cutting. It's stability has improved though after a few trips to the coarse stones though!
 
It is well known that a factory fresh S30v edge is usually weak from overheating. After getting through the weak steel (about 5 full sharpenings, not just touch ups) you should see a huge improvement in edge retention and stability
I see this parroted all the time. I'm sure this happens occasionally but do you really think this is "usual"? I have at least 30 Spyderco knives with S30V and have never had any issues with the factory edge that I've noticed. No chipping etc and I've used several of these knives in a warehouse setting breaking down pallets, cutting thick poly banding, dirty cardboard, shaving & carving wood, etc. Does everyone really think the guys making these knives don't know how to grind a blade so the factory edge isn't brittle?
 
I see this parroted all the time. I'm sure this happens occasionally but do you really think this is "usual"? I have at least 30 Spyderco knives with S30V and have never had any issues with the factory edge that I've noticed. No chipping etc and I've used several of these knives in a warehouse setting breaking down pallets, cutting thick poly banding, dirty cardboard, shaving & carving wood, etc. Does everyone really think the guys making these knives don't know how to grind a blade so the factory edge isn't brittle?

There is going to be different degrees of overheating. Not all edges will be chippy, but I bet most will have reduced edge retention at the very least. I know my Shaman did at first. Pretty much any steel I've had that is sharpened on either grinding wheels or belts has needed a few good sharpenings to perform well. Spyderco probably has less damage than most because of the use of a robot to sharpen. More consistent than any human. But it's still high speed, powered grinding, and that apex is thin and easily overheated.

It's just my personal experience and what I've seen from other's experience. I find his videos a bit boring, but Outpost76 does get interesting results showing that it does take a few sharpenings to get steels to perform their best. In the case of Benchmade, it took 16 sharpenings to get the M4 on the Super Freek to get consistent results for him. I'd say that's a worst case scenario and a case of human error. I don't think the Manix 2 in M4 took nearly that many, but it still took a few for consistent results.
 
My particular PM2 is chippy. It's in S30V.

I've been so unimpressed with my particular PM2's steel that I don't want to buy another knife in S30V - even though I did, a Para 3.

Maybe it's just mine. Most people don't seem to have this issue.

I'd love another PM2 in a different steel.

I have the same complaint, and not just with s30v. After you remove the chip and 1/16 of steel the chipping will get less. I found this to be common with knives bought in Fall of 2019 to spring of 2020 and since have not had an issue.
 
I have the same complaint, and not just with s30v. After you remove the chip and 1/16 of steel the chipping will get less. I found this to be common with knives bought in Fall of 2019 to spring of 2020 and since have not had an issue.

Sharpened my PM2 several times now, still chippy. And I'm unimpressed with it's ability to hold a super keen edge. (I know, S30V isn't known for holding a super keen edge.)

Love the knife though, I really do. I just want a PM2 in a different steel. :D
 
Sharpened my PM2 several times now, still chippy. And I'm unimpressed with it's ability to hold a super keen edge. (I know, S30V isn't known for holding a super keen edge.)

Love the knife though, I really do. I just want a PM2 in a different steel. :D

Cruwear should make you happy then. Or the new s45vn coming? I've had no chipping problems with s30, and my shaman has stayed razor sharp for weeks, I'm honestly wondering why lol thing just won't dull.
 
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