custom shop has magnacut for 110, 112, 113, 119, 501 and 722

It arrived. It was touch & go there for a while though. My wife brought the mail in, but there was no knife. Then, about 5 minutes later, the mail truck showed up again, and dropped the knife off.

I've looked it over closely, but can't find anything wrong with it. Not the best lighting, but here it is.
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Beautiful isn’t it? 👍
 
It arrived. It was touch & go there for a while though. My wife brought the mail in, but there was no knife. Then, about 5 minutes later, the mail truck showed up again, and dropped the knife off.

I've looked it over closely, but can't find anything wrong with it. Not the best lighting, but here it is.
View attachment 2661575View attachment 2661576
Sweet knife. I will always love the brass + rivet look.
 
I just noticed. It looks like the pivot for the back spring on the customs is hidden under the wood. Unlike the regular 110, 112s where it goes the whole way through. That little detail makes a big difference in the looks.
I assume the reason for this is because in the Custom Shop, you can order Rivets or No Rivets. It's the customer's choice. I assume they make them all with hidden rocker pins so they don't have to keep switching back and forth.
 
I assume the reason for this is because in the Custom Shop, you can order Rivets or No Rivets. It's the customer's choice. I assume they make them all with hidden rocker pins so they don't have to keep switching back and forth.
Yeah, in the 110s you don't notice it as much, but with the shorter 112, eliminating just that one pin makes a big difference in the looks.

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I just noticed. It looks like the pivot for the back spring on the customs is hidden under the wood. Unlike the regular 110, 112s where it goes the whole way through. That little detail makes a big difference in the looks.
I am confused by this. The three pivot pins would be the last things put in, unless the scales are glued on. I am trying to figure out how the back pin could be under the slabs unless they are glued on, and if they are glued on, what are those pins on the handles doing? Are they just cosmetic? If so, that's unfortunate since I like functional pins on my handles to keep the slabs from ever getting knocked off. Am I seeing this wrong? Can anyone explain the assembly sequence which makes sense here with those handle pins being functional and not just cosmetic?

Edit: I just checked one of my customs, and those handle pins are indeed functional. I don't understand how Buck assembles these, but it is clever work for sure.
 
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I am confused by this. The three pivot pins would be the last things put in, unless the scales are glued on. I am trying to figure out how the back pin could be under the slabs unless they are glued on, and if they are glued on, what are those pins on the handles doing? Are they just cosmetic? If so, that's unfortunate since I like functional pins on my handles to keep the slabs from ever getting knocked off. Am I seeing this wrong? Can anyone explain the assembly sequence which makes sense here with those handle pins being functional and not just cosmetic?
We glue the scales on with or with out rivets. The use of a hidden rocker rivet was for those who did not want rivets having a clean handle scale. For me personally I prefer them without rivets. Hidden rocker rivets must also be set by hand and not a press.
 
We glue the scales on with or with out rivets. The use of a hidden rocker rivet was for those who did not want rivets having a clean handle scale. For me personally I prefer them without rivets. Hidden rocker rivets must also be set by hand and not a press.
I was just wondering how the rivets for the handles are set on these knives once the rocker rivet is in place, since at that point the two sides and back spring are all together. Is there a video somewhere showing the assembly?
 
Not really clearly. The handles are put on last, we insert a steel plate to fill the void between the two bolster liners and inset a rivet with the rivet head on top and tap the top of the rivet to mushroom the rivet and compress the handle material to the bolster liner. There are relieves cut into the bolster liners to allow for the expansion of the rivet.
 
Not really clearly. The handles are put on last, we insert a steel plate to fill the void between the two bolster liners and inset a rivet with the rivet head on top and tap the top of the rivet to mushroom the rivet and compress the handle material to the bolster liner. There are relieves cut into the bolster liners to allow for the expansion of the rivet.
I understand now, thanks!
 
Last week I touched up the edge on my Magnacut 110 for the first time with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I used 20 degrees, and I thought it sharpened fairly easily. In fact, I thought it was much like my S35VN knives, as far as sharpening goes.

I have knives in other harder "super" steels, but I always came back to S35VN as a good, all-around steel. I've been using the 110 or 112 just about every day since I got them, and I haven't been babying them. In my totally un-scientific study it seems like Buck's Magnacut holds an edge well when cutting stuff that quickly dulled my S35VN or Elmax knives.

I was just wondering what everyone else's experience has been
 
Last week I touched up the edge on my Magnacut 110 for the first time with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I used 20 degrees, and I thought it sharpened fairly easily. In fact, I thought it was much like my S35VN knives, as far as sharpening goes.

I have knives in other harder "super" steels, but I always came back to S35VN as a good, all-around steel. I've been using the 110 or 112 just about every day since I got them, and I haven't been babying them. In my totally un-scientific study it seems like Buck's Magnacut holds an edge well when cutting stuff that quickly dulled my S35VN or Elmax knives.

I was just wondering what everyone else's experience has been
I have a 501 Larrin in Magnacut and a 501 in S30v from the Custom Shop and my experience is pretty much like yours.

Edit: I thought that perhaps I should expand on my comment. Please keep in mind that I am an office worker so my knife cutting chores are not that heavy or demanding. What I have noticed between S30v and Magnacut, both heat treated by Buck, is that they seem to behave very similar. I sharpen both on either a spyderco Sharpmaker or their ceramic bench stones. Both are very easy to get a great edge but it seems like the Magnacut edge simply lasts longer. I am talking about the model 501 and it is not exactly a heavy duty use knife like a model 110 or one of their fixed blade knives. There may be a greater difference in a heavy use knife than what I am using.
 
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I still prefer Buck's S30V and S35VN over the Magnacut hands down. I have both a 110 and a 112 with equal carry time over the last several months and it's not outperformed Buck's 420HC in my use. I'm just not impressed. You know I'm one of the bigger Buck fanboys so for me to say anything negative about anything Buck, it's not my imagination.

Other than durability sitting on a shelf, what is your experience?
Have you used the large Buck Pursuit? I'm wondering If the Bos S35VN is really worth the additional cost over 420HC.
 
Have you used the large Buck Pursuit? I'm wondering If the Bos S35VN is really worth the additional cost over 420HC.

I'm not a fan of the pursuit, so I can't offer an opinion.

I don't much care for a blade that is ground only half of the blade height unless it's a narrow blade of relatively this stock for hunting. Thick, wide blades that aren't ground high are for chopping, IMHO. And I would prefer a steel that's easy to shape for that type of knife.

Only you can answer that question based on how you anticipate using it.
 
Placed an order yesterday for a 112 with magnacut, brass with pins, and ironwood handles. I’m very excited about this one, hopefully it will have some nice ironwood slabs, it can be such a pretty wood.

I have one of the first batch of 110s with the magnacut blade, and have been really impressed with it and how easily it touches up to a really sharp edge.

I also have a custom shop 112 with cherry wood handles with finger grooves and S30, from about 4 years ago. Such a great carry and user knife!

I will definitely be sharing pics when it gets here, but that looks like it may be quite a while.
 
New knife day came early, only took about 2 weeks for my new 112 to come in from the custom shop! That was super fast and very impressive turnaround.

First, the good… my initial impressions are that the knife is beautiful, the ironwood handles are as nice as I had hoped, and the knife is put together really well. These pics don’t do justice to just how nice these ironwood scales are.

zoK4MRn.jpg
FE5ZG2E.jpg


Now, the not so good… my excitement is tempered by the blade itself. It seems quite short, like way too much steel was removed in sharpening. The blade is a full 1/16” shorter than my other custom shop 112, which has been used and sharpened quite a bit over the last 4 years. That seems like quite a few years of use gone from the blade before it is even carried. Here are comparison pics of the new (left) against my 4 year old (right).

iRih6Ck.jpg


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I don’t know if this is something that I can or should bring to Buck’s attention, but I’m afraid it’s going to be very hard for me to overlook this. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
 
I don’t know if this is something that I can or should bring to Buck’s attention, but I’m afraid it’s going to be very hard for me to overlook this. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
I would send an email or message them here. I had an issue with sharpening on a custom 110 I ordered. I was sent a return label right away to get it re-bladed. My finger grooves were also cut to deep, so the tip of the blade was not recessed in the handle leaving it exposed in the closed position. If I were Buck I would want to know about these issues, especially on custom shop knives.
 
New knife day came early, only took about 2 weeks for my new 112 to come in from the custom shop! That was super fast and very impressive turnaround.

First, the good… my initial impressions are that the knife is beautiful, the ironwood handles are as nice as I had hoped, and the knife is put together really well. These pics don’t do justice to just how nice these ironwood scales are.

zoK4MRn.jpg
FE5ZG2E.jpg


Now, the not so good… my excitement is tempered by the blade itself. It seems quite short, like way too much steel was removed in sharpening. The blade is a full 1/16” shorter than my other custom shop 112, which has been used and sharpened quite a bit over the last 4 years. That seems like quite a few years of use gone from the blade before it is even carried. Here are comparison pics of the new (left) against my 4 year old (right).

iRih6Ck.jpg


jjhctZV.jpg


I don’t know if this is something that I can or should bring to Buck’s attention, but I’m afraid it’s going to be very hard for me to overlook this. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
It's Magnacut... it's so good, you don't need that last 1/16"!

It's Magnacut... they're making sure you don't have too much of a good thing.

It's Magnacut... that last 1/16" is there, it's just so fine an edge you can't see it.
 
I think I have sixteen 112’s but only one of them is from the Custom Shop.

I have noticed that the blades aren’t all the same length. They aren’t all the same height either. Some of them are shorter from spine to edge.

I have not returned any of them but you are obviously very bothered by this. That makes you a dissatisfied customer and Buck wants their customers to be satisfied.

There’s a good chance that the Buck representative on this forum will offer some help when he sees this but I recommend planning a phone call in case he doesn’t.

My Custom Shop 112 is Ironwood too and I love it. Very nice looking knife you have there.
 
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