1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

  2. Click here to enter the drawing for your chance to win a Kizer 1034A1 Gingrich Bush Knife & Ka-Bar Dozier Folding Hunter, , Bladeforums.com swag or memberships!

    Be sure to read the rules before entering, then help us decide next week's giveaway by hitting the poll in that thread! Entries close at midnight, Saturday Sept 7!

    Once the entries close, we'll live stream the drawing on Sunday, Sept 8 at 5PM Eastern. Tune in to our YouTube channel TheRealBladeForums for a chance to win bonus prizes!

    Questions? Comments? Post in the discussion thread here

Design input needed on a 4.5" fixed blade

Discussion in 'General Knife Discussion' started by razor-edge-knives, Jul 13, 2019.

  1. Sonnydaze

    Sonnydaze Gold Member Gold Member

    Jul 6, 2009
    Hi, Josh...glad to see this thing coming around...
    It's not for me, but it's your baby, and you've been around the horn and know first-hand what most folks want in your fixed blade for heavy duty... My best advice is to use your own head; folks will buy it.
    I'll be interested when you come up with a smaller fixed blade that I can carry cross-draw...
    • no swedge
    • only make a small sharpening choil
    • no bow drill recess
    • the thumb ramp looks aggressive, but you're the master, so you know what's good.
    • ferro rod placement ...forget it.
    • Size ok? NO... Josh, I am a big fan of fixed blades, but I like 'em about 3.25-3.5"...
    • the grip is MUCH too long for my large hands, even if wearing a glove...a grip about 4.4" bare-handed is about max for me, and even the model 21 large Sebenza is a bit too long in the grip for my large hands... Of course, I've asked CRK for years for a medium Sebbie, to no avail. cheers, Don
    • IMO the blade is quite a bit too "high." I know it's meant for beating but this particular blade "height" seems to be larger than could ever be of use...even under abusive means.
    • Your blade thickness is "up there" and speaks to your intended use; it's your design, so go for it...
    • I do vote for a thin BTE measurement, but you know all about that better than I do...I prefer about 0.010" BTE.
     
    razor-edge-knives likes this.
  2. bikerector

    bikerector Gold Member Gold Member

    Nov 16, 2016
    I'm digging the long handle on this. Looks like all kinds of space for different grips and uses.
     
    razor-edge-knives likes this.
  3. razor-edge-knives

    razor-edge-knives Moderator Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Apr 3, 2011
    Ok I think we're pretty much there, other than the finger choil decision! I eliminated the front tang pocket and thickened up the outer rim of the pockets to 1/4" thick (vs 3/16"), moved the lanyard hole to the center, made the texture dimples more shallow in the scales, and thickened up the scales a little bit.

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2019
  4. David Mary

    David Mary KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    228
    Jul 23, 2015
    That'll give it a wee bit more chop! And who doesn't like chop? :D
     
  5. Backyard

    Backyard

    68
    Jul 19, 2019
    I'm going to go against the grain here for most opinions, some may agree

    Blade I don't think is heavy or long enough to make it efficient at chopping so I vote to lighten it up by reducing the height of the blade. Maybe just remove the thumb ramp all together. I find I don't like thumb ramps as it forces you to place you thumb at two locations only and limits other placements.

    I say almost FFG. Maybe 1/8" from the spine.

    No jimping. They always create hot spots for me. I prefer a lightly radius on the spine

    No sharpening choil. I believe if you need a large one to choke up on then the blade is just to far from the handle. On some of mine I bring the blade right up to the finger choil and round it off right at the plunge line

    Handle seems good. Make sure to smooth out any ridges at the top of the butt

    I would like it in 3v since it is supposed to be a bushcraft / hard use knife and toughness is key. Otherwise maybe 4v or even PD-1
     
    razor-edge-knives likes this.
  6. Apalachicola

    Apalachicola

    37
    Jun 24, 2019
    Loving this topic. Don’t own the knife - not going to, but it’s great to read knife designers and knife people talking nuts and bolts.
     
    razor-edge-knives and argyle1812 like this.
  7. razor-edge-knives

    razor-edge-knives Moderator Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Apr 3, 2011
    Ok guys final renders and CAD is done. I'm trying to gauge interest, so please check this thread out for those pics and to speak up if you are interested. Thanks for everyone's help on this!!
     

Share This Page