Destroyed my MANIX 2 LW help!!

There sure are a lot of assholes around here these days.

I believe you can find some aftermarket scales for a regular Manix2 for a decent price without spending the money on titanium. Also you will need a full set of screws also fairly easy to find for a relatively decent price and if you can't source a backspacer look for standoffs that work for the screw set you end up with. You could also search around for a lightweight with a broken blade on an auction site. Best of luck with the knife and don't be discouraged all modders mess up a knife or two in the beginning.
 
Hulk513 said:
How do I post pic I can’t just post it to the thread from library? That’s trash
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At your membership level you need to use a photo hosting site like Imgur.com. Then use the BBCode that the hosting site assigns to your picture. If you were a Gold member or higher you could post pictures directly from your computer.

As for the knife, don't feel bad, in the grand scheme of things it's just a knife.

It's a safe bet that most, if not all professional knife builders/customizers have one or two "learning experiences" in their past. It can take time for ones abilities to catch up to ones ambitions. We learn by doing, and we learn by making mistakes.

When I was 16 I tried to make a gravity knife out of a Kissing Crane stiletto. I failed, and I ruined the knife in the process. But I've come a long way since then.

I have a lot of admiration for people who are willing to take a gamble and risk ruining their knife to make it the way they want it to be. With time and experience unskilled beginners can go on to become highly skilled professionals. We all have to start somewhere, and there are usually a few ruined knives in our wake.
 
What a shame,the untold truthof the Manix 2 LW conversion.The true amont of wasted knives and the subsequent post in the WTB section in search for parts.I've had my share of contact with these people,less than truthful about the damage and the actual parts need....I can name two such people on BF.
 
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Hulk513 said:
ended up destroying the scales.
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Hey, Hulk.
My first question would be how badly the scales are "destroyed." I don't think you're going to find replacement scales. You could ask on the Spyderco Forum that's run by Spyderco. It's worth a shot.

But one man's "destroyed" is another man's "nah, we can fix that." I'll assume that you just drilled out the rivet holes too big. That's an easy mistake to make when drilling plastics with conventionally ground drill bits. If that was the case, I would fill the existing holes with epoxy, redrill them properly, and then continue as you had originally intended.

The trick will be finding an epoxy that sets up hard, is machinable, and that will adhere to the FRCP scales of the Manix 2 LW. JB Weld is a pretty good product that is inexpensive and widely available. If you go shopping around, don't cheap out. Look for something that's metal reinforced and machinable. If you want to give the epoxy more surface area to adhere to, thread the oversized holes before epoxying them.
 
RustyIron said:
Hey, Hulk.
My first question would be how badly the scales are "destroyed." I don't think you're going to find replacement scales. You could ask on the Spyderco Forum that's run by Spyderco. It's worth a shot.

But one man's "destroyed" is another man's "nah, we can fix that." I'll assume that you just drilled out the rivet holes too big. That's an easy mistake to make when drilling plastics with conventionally ground drill bits. If that was the case, I would fill the existing holes with epoxy, redrill them properly, and then continue as you had originally intended.

The trick will be finding an epoxy that sets up hard, is machinable, and that will adhere to the FRCP scales of the Manix 2 LW. JB Weld is a pretty good product that is inexpensive and widely available. If you go shopping around, don't cheap out. Look for something that's metal reinforced and machinable. If you want to give the epoxy more surface area to adhere to, thread the oversized holes before epoxying them.
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No they are like destroyed destroyed and trashed already I had to brake them apart to get everything out
 
sgt1372 said:
Well, FWIW, I don't consider recommending the OP buy a pair of $85 scales, that do NOT fit his knife and then to expect to find & pay for all of the other parts that you mentioned that he needs to "make them" fit his LW, very useful when he botched removing the rivets from the FRN scales on his LW in the 1st place.

But, if that's what the OP decides to do, so be it. 🤷‍♂️
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You must have me confused with another person. I never recommended any of that. And those scales will fit his knife, but lack some necessary hardware and parts.
 
thebrain said:
There sure are a lot of assholes around here these days.

I believe you can find some aftermarket scales for a regular Manix2 for a decent price without spending the money on titanium. Also you will need a full set of screws also fairly easy to find for a relatively decent price and if you can't source a backspacer look for standoffs that work for the screw set you end up with. You could also search around for a lightweight with a broken blade on an auction site. Best of luck with the knife and don't be discouraged all modders mess up a knife or two in the beginning.
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I believe the "backspacer" in question is actually the housing for the ball-cage lock, not the typical "backspacer" that can be replaced with standoffs.
 
killgar said:
We all have to start somewhere, and there are usually a few ruined knives in our wake.
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This. I have an extra box for these at home. And the other day I made somebody very happy by sending him a Manix 2 replacement blade that he was looking for.

OP: just chalk it up under lessons learned, keep/sell/trade/GAW the blade and move on. It happens in this hobby.
 
thebrain said:
There sure are a lot of assholes around here these days.

I believe you can find some aftermarket scales for a regular Manix2 for a decent price without spending the money on titanium. Also you will need a full set of screws also fairly easy to find for a relatively decent price and if you can't source a backspacer look for standoffs that work for the screw set you end up with. You could also search around for a lightweight with a broken blade on an auction site. Best of luck with the knife and don't be discouraged all modders mess up a knife or two in the beginning.
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Officer's Match said:
I believe the "backspacer" in question is actually the housing for the ball-cage lock, not the typical "backspacer" that can be replaced with standoffs.
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Correct, it's the metal piece that surrounds the lock bar and spring on the top and bottom (the scales/liners do the job on the sides). The LW doesn't have this piece, since it's molded in. I said backspacer because it's on the back/spine of the knife, but I could see the confusion.
 
Without your LW scales, you'll be able to maintain it a lot better! Those little folding pocketknives have SO much daily maintenance require to keep them running properly, I'm surprised they even come assembled!
 
Pocket knives are easily cleaned without taking them apart.
Even the ones with screws shouldn't be disassembed. The screws are for assembly.
 
I had a Sage 1 that I tried to remove some screws and I stripped one. I returned it to Sypderco and they replaced the screw and also replaced the hardware that they used the red loctite on to assemble. I wish Spyderco was more friendly to wanting their customers to maintain their knives and make them more disassemble friendly. I commend CRK and Hinderer for wanting their customers to maintain their knives. I did not like it when Spyderco was using the red loctite to assemble knives and I always felt the Tiawan hardware was soft. I am really leary working on any of their knives because of that.
 
There is a videos of someone doing this. The problem is the rivets overheat and melt the plastic.

Honestly I would buy the scales from AWT. They are worth the money. I have 2 pairs for a couple of Bugouts. They are awesome. And there are plenty of after market titanium screws available in whatever color you want.
 
Hulk513 said:
What if I got a regular manix 2 I would be able to just swap the blade atleast right? The dimensions weren’t changed for the blade I hope. Atleast I can cope a little better thinking I have a spare s90v manix blade I paid $110 for 😭
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Your best bet, if I had guess would be to get a regular G10 S30V Manix 2. FYI, Not all Manix blade tangs are the same dimension.Since Spyderco did offer S90V blades in the CF versions.I would bet that it would fit.
 
sorry OP, hope you find a solution. I have a dismantled k390 police bc I sheared off the screw in the D barrel nut and can’t seem to get a replacement piece for the life of me. Things happen; onwards & upwards.
 
razorburn said:
Your best bet, if I had guess would be to get a regular G10 S30V Manix 2. FYI, Not all Manix blade tangs are the same dimension.Since Spyderco did offer S90V blades in the CF versions.I would bet that it would fit.
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Did something similar to my Para 3. Messed the 45vn blade up bad so I bought a cheap LW with BD1N blade. Now I have a G10 Para 3 with BD1N blade. No complaints and fit perfectly.
 
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