Do you own multiple sharpening systems?

JJ_Colt45 said:
I've tried some "systems" through the years but always fall back to stones ... water or oil ... now some diamond thrown in ...

just decided it was time to upgrade all those so the last year I've replaced all my stones for better stones that aren't used up and some that will sharpen the newer steels ...

I've been tempted to buy a Wicked Edge ... and someday I probably will but for now just good old stones still give me everything I need.
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Words right out of my mouth, man. I used to be tempted by the Wicked Edge, but now I find myself more tempted by a Tormek or a Worksharp KO. It would be nice to have something faster for reprofiling a new edge. I'm just drooling over the Tormek with the black SiC wheel lately

Edit: To answer OP's question, I used to own a Lansky, Edge Pro, and K02, but not for different roles; they were respective upgrades to the previous system until I went freehand. The Worksharp KO and the Sharpmaker are a really tempting combination to me though. And I would really like a Tormek to bolster the low end of my waterstone approach
 
I have a guided system I use for serrations, scissors (better quality ones), and some commercial work. I'll also use it for primary regrinds from time to time. If my neck is acting up I'll turn to it as well.

90% is still freehand.
 
I have had a lot of systems including the TSprof I could never get even bevels with it even after tuning it multiple times so I sold it bit the bullet and bought the WE Pro pack III. I have never looked back could not be more satisfied with this system. I am interested in a Tormek although from what I read the wheels are pricey and don't last that long.
 
Bladegunner said:
I have had a lot of systems including the TSprof I could never get even bevels with it even after tuning it multiple times so I sold it bit the bullet and bought the WE Pro pack III. I have never looked back could not be more satisfied with this system. I am interested in a Tormek although from what I read the wheels are pricey and don't last that long.
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Where do you think the issue is on the tsprof? Were you using the stones it came with or something else?
 
trailhunter said:
Where do you think the issue is on the tsprof? Were you using the stones it came with or something else?
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I think it was the clamping system with all the screws and springs. I used the stones that came with it and some others that were all on the same aluminum blanks. I really wanted it to work and emailed Paul I think that is his name numerous times but all he did was send the instructions for tightening the screws on the springs. I asked for a new clamp and he refused to send one. In all fairness this is before STATES was a dealer. and yes I tried the stronger springs same problem.
 
My systems are:
- Spyderco Sharpmaker with standard rods
- Bench stones, oil - Norton Crystolon combo, Norton India combo, soft/hard Arkansas combo
- Bench stones, water - Shapton Pro 320/1000/2000/5000, Shun combo 300/1000, 1000/6000, Suehiro Chemical 800.
- Bench hones, diamond - CKTG 400/1000 combo, Atoma 140, DMT 6" interrupted surface C, F, EF set.
- Strops - leather with Porter Cable PCP5 green stick compound, balsa with Hand American 1 micron diamond spray.

A few miscellaneous smaller stones - 4" Ace Hardware SiC combo, couple of 6" Norton Economy SiC combo, couple of 3" pocket-sized Arkansas stones.

These were accumulated over several years as I was learning how to sharpen. Some were bought as experiments to see how they compared to other options (the Shun water stones, for example).

Other than the Sharpmaker I don't have any guided systems.
 
trailhunter said:
Are there any of you out there that have multiple sharpening systems? If so, do you find yourself using them for specific purposes? I'd like to hear others stories.
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I have a Sharpmaker, an Edge Pro, and a KME as well as a variety of accessory stones/items for each.

For me, the Sharpmaker is used to extend the length of time between full sharpenings on the KME or Edge Pro. I will often do touch-ups with the Spyderco stones or put on a micro-bevel, but will NEVER attempt a reprofile with it. Waaaaay too labor intensive and the Sharpmaker just isn't the right tool for the job. Sure, you could do it, but how much is your time worth to you?

When deciding whether to use the Edge Pro or KME, it often comes down to the grind on the blade. If I'm sharpening a blade with a saber-type grind, it always goes on the KME because the clamping systems really lend themselves, in my opinion, to gripping well on the upper, flat section of saber grinds. If I'm sharpening a long knife or a fully flat ground blade, more often than not I use the Edge Pro. I feel like that gives me the best results for each type of blade that I possess. I'll admit that I've been doing more blades on the KME lately, but that's probably because it's the newest sharpening toy in my collection and I'm enjoying playing with it.

I also have a large variety of Japanese water stones including Choseras, Naniwa Super Stones, King stones, Suehiro stones, and so on. I generally use these for freehand sharpening my kitchen knives, as I'm an avid cook. No particular reason to use them as opposed to my guided systems other than the fact that I find it mildly cathartic to stand in my kitchen honing a 240 mm gyuto sometimes. Plus it keeps my freehand skills up to far -- I think it's a somewhat perishable skill if you neglect it too long.
 
I only use the Tsprof's now and that's about it the KME short stones make it almost useless if you want to sharpen anything at all in a short amount of time and the rubber always come's off the jaws on the KME as well or at least mine always did.

Also after reading this I seen what Bladegunner was saying about uneven bevel's and I have never had that problem myself,it is possible on some knives depending on blade shape that the bevel may be a tiny bit uneven but it should not be enough to matter or that's going to really stand out,I know a lot of it has to do with thinking outside the box for example when using the double clamp's on some knives you better off putting both clamp's on one side of the crossbar and keeping the tip as far over as you can get toward's the center shaft and the farther over the better because on some low angle knives the stone will hit the clamp the closer you get the tip if not clamped like I just said.

Also another example is I only use one of the single clamp's when sharpening knives like a Spyderco Paramilitary 2 with a shorter blade and I put the clamp as close to the center shaft as I can and then I also clamp the blade in with the tip as far over as I can get so the handle is closer to the center shaft,the reason this is done is because if you use 2 of the double clamps on a knife like a Paramilitary 2 or a Griptilian the part of the edge closer to the handle will not sharpened you you will see it as plain as day.

The reinforced spring's will not help with making your bevel's more even what happen's is with all guided system's like the KME's and K02's is that the angle change's by about 1 to 3 tenth's of a degree witch is nothing the more you move off the center line or the central shaft,with a smaller pocket knife it's not going to be a problem and even a bigger kitchen knife won't be but the longer the knife the more the angle change's but like I said at max it's about 3 tenth's of a degree on a longer kitchen knife.The reinforced spring's are designed not to deflect as much so you get a more accurate edge and what I mean by that is with the stock spring's if you push hard enough to make them deflect your changing the angle it witch your sharpening the section of the edge where the spring's deflected.

Also you can get the spring's from George at STATES his new website from what people have told me is harder to navigate,George is very good person and really care's about the customer and really want's people to be happy with their purchase,also George can get everything that Tsprof offer's and carry's pretty much everything the only thing I know he told me he has not gotten yet is the Lens kit for doing convex edge's but other then that he has everything and trust me I know because I have gotten one of every clamp they sell from George plus 2 scissor attachment's.

When it comes to what stones to buy that really depends on what kind of an edge you want and how hard is the steel your wanting to sharpen,I like the Venev stones for just about anything and everything and I also like the metallic bonded CBN stones for S110v but the Venev stones will also sharpen S110v just fine to but not as fast.When it comes to water stones I like Chosera's Suehiro 10 and 20K stones and they are under rated by about 5K on each stone they are really more like 15 and 25K from what people who really stones have told me,Congress MoldMasters are great stones for doing cheaper knives such as friends and family knives they have gotten from Walmart and if you want to sharpen them to a higher grit get the Super Fine stones they offer the MoldMasters are Silicon Carbide and the Super Fine are Aluminum Oxide and are good finishing stones.

I'll try to post a picture of the best way to clamp in a shorter bladed pocket knife using a single clamp.

trailhunter said:
Thanks! which model is best? Looking at the lite version but not sure which is the best one to go with. This also seems compatible with multiple stone manufacturers (quite possibly kme as well?) What stones do you use aside from the ones it comes with? As for the springs, can I get them from statesllc?

Do you still find yourself using the KME for anything now that you have the tfprofs?
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I started out with a Lansky.

Then I got a Sharpmaker.

Next was the Ken Onion WorkSharp

Then I went all in and got a Wicked Edge.

What I do now is use the Wicked Edge to set the angles at 18 degrees. Then I use the Sharpmaker to do a "micro bevel" at 20 degrees. It also makes touch ups a breeze.

With the Ken Onion - I'm left handed so it's awkward for me. I've rounded tips and just generally don't like the convex edge. I prefer the edge a Wicked Edge gives.
 
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Wow, where to begin. I just like sharpening and trying out different stuff. Right now I have

Benchstones:

Cheap Ace Double Sided Benchstone
Norton IM2 (11x2)
DMT Diafolds - Extra Coarse, Coarse, Fine, Extra Extra Fine
DMT DuoSharp Coarse, Fine,
DiaSharp Extra Fine
Extra Fine
Atoma 140
Spyderco benchstones - Medium, Fine, Ultra Fine
Shapton Glass - 500, 2000, 6000
Baryonyx Mantocore
Various homemade strops

Systems:

Sharpmaker
WE 130 - Just got this.
 
Guided rod "system" by Smith's.
Pocket and bench Arkansas Stones.
So two "sharpening systems"?
Almost forgot. I also have a plain old leather belt for stropping. No red/green/white compounds.
 
Bladegunner said:
I think it was the clamping system with all the screws and springs. I used the stones that came with it and some others that were all on the same aluminum blanks. I really wanted it to work and emailed Paul I think that is his name numerous times but all he did was send the instructions for tightening the screws on the springs. I asked for a new clamp and he refused to send one. In all fairness this is before STATES was a dealer. and yes I tried the stronger springs same problem.
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They do not offer good customer service!!
 
- 1 Tormek T7 with an SB-250 Blackstone (black silicon carbide)
- 1 Creusen slow-speed bench grinder with:
- 2 Rubber Wheels coated with diamond powder (+/- 230 and +/- 170 grit) + wax
- 1 Paper Wheel coated with +/- 170 grit diamond powder (experimental) + wax
- 5 dedicated Paper Wheels coated with 15, 6, 3, 1, and 0.25 micron diamond compound.
 
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jackknife said:
I've got a whole barnet full of sharpening systems. Red ones, green ones, whit ones. They all work well. Just drink all the coffee before turning it over to sharpen your knife!

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I've used that, I've had an edge crap out on me out at a construction class, cutting open concrete bags with a cheap knife. Touched it up on the top of my car window.
 
I have a tsprof, a trihone type thing, a 1x30 harbor freight that I use to rough in bevels when I do the first sharpening for a few customers

I need to get the reinforced springs and a digital angle finder.

I used to havethe work sharp ko, rounded off a bunch of tips learning it and never got the hang of it. Sold it wheni got the K02
 
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I have 5 grinders with various paper wheels, buffers, and one wet grinder. Also use belt sander with about 20 different grits and leather belts. Touch up work is mainly done with diamond rods and strops. I still have a bunch of stones and fixed angle systems that have not been used for a very long time. They were not needed after the paper wheel and belt sander setups were completed.
 
In 60 years of playing with knives, I guess I've tried most of 'em. I have a Sharpmaker, an Edge Pro Apex, a KME, a GATCO with diamonds, Lansky with diamonds, RazorEdge large, small, and broadhead clamps with its proprietary dry stones, DMT Aligner with diamonds, a couple of other clamps that I picked up along the way, God o9nly knows how many stones, strops, stropping pastes down to 0.25 micron, micro-fine polishing sheets going to 30,000... I've just added the Ken Onion Worksharp to the mix.

My 'go-to' sharpener turned out to be the DMT Aligner with it's diamond stones. I used the Sharpmaker to tune up edges in the kitchen. I'll keep doing that. But now that I have the Ken Onion Worksharp, that's enough for me. I get the same edges I used to get with the EdgePro, but in 2-3 minutes. I'll keep the Sharpmaker as well, for kitchen tune-ups, and the DMT aligner for camping and backpacking, but unless I feel the urge for some Zen meditation with a stone, all my sharpening will be done with the Worksharp.


Stitchawl
 
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