Fodderwing Gets Some New Pants

Diomedes Industries said:
I learned more from this thread than I have in a long time.

Dave,

Thank you so much for this. I have been wanted to try your style of carry and stitch for some time. Frankly, I plan on copying you a fair few times from this thread to learn your craft. I will always credit you and never sell these items. When I get your style down in a way I am comfortable with - I will then incorporate it into my craft.

You are a true artist and I love your work. In fact, I just sent a customer to you last week who asked for Chaps. I hope they order.

Thank you for being a mentor of mine without ever taking me on as a student.

I do have a few questions:

1) You dab your Antiquing recipe into the cut and carved sections of your middle with a foam brush? You don't have any overrun on to the pristine areas?

2) You use a deck cleaner? What product is this and what does it remove?

3) You leave a very generous gap around the finger guard for a welt and a stitch. Why not bring this closer? I am sure this was wisdom hard won over time - but I wanted to know your reasoning so that I may learn sir.

Jason
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Thanks Jason for all the kind words! Thanks for the recommendation on the leggings. Have not heard anything. Now would be a good time for that kind of an order. Only have 2 pair in front of em. Anyhoo:

1) Yes I go from the outside border in when I apply the antiquing. It does get on some areas ya don't want but because we already have a coat of finish on there prior to the antiquing it won't really penetrate. Thats why I do just a small area and then remove the excess quickly with a paper towel. Having the finish on there prior is referred to as "resist" finishing or dyeing as your first coat of finish resists the antique. When ya come in with the second coat of finish after the antiquing you will remove more. Look close at the tshirt in this pic. That color is excess antique that came off as I was applying the finish.

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2) Its Behr brand wood deck cleaner that I got from Home Depot. Bought a gallon many years ago for like $10 and still going strong with that one gallon because ya sure don't use much. I just dampen a small area on a paper towel and wipe down any stray marks or grungies. Dang seems like it'll work on about anything. Its certainly worth a try. Years ago before health concerns and haz mat concerns most leather shops had some oxalic acid around to clean the grunges with. Not the safest stuff. This deck cleaner has some oxaclic acid in it but at this dilution its pretty benign.

3) Yes there was some hard won wisdom there. Mostly making that area too small and cutting into your stitching when ya punch slots. Thats a pisser. I like to have lots of extra room there if I can in a pattern because I often get special request for slots to accommodate extra thick belts. To get it closer you would have to bring the outside edge in as the inside stitch line is pretty fixed by the knife shape. On the vertical pancake it was very difficult for me to move both sides in the same and then the sheath didn't look very good because it wasn't symmetrical. I quit doing that. Also it gives me room to skive the outside of the welt dwon so the slot is going through two layers of leather and not 3. This really helps with the wearers comfort and break in time.

Thanks for the questions Jason!
 
Thanks Dave - for taking the time.

Concerning #3 - it makes sense now when I think about wearing it. If you make that stitch to close - it can't wrap around the body - or when it does - you can't get the knife out.

Thanks again,

Jason
 
Diomedes Industries said:
Thanks Dave - for taking the time.

Concerning #3 - it makes sense now when I think about wearing it. If you make that stitch to close - it can't wrap around the body - or when it does - you can't get the knife out.

Thanks again,

Jason
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Ya bet buddy! Anytime.
 
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