GEC #15 navy knife

I don't have one but I do want one. It looks like a cool blade shape, I like bails and I like GEC's 440c.
Winner winner as far as I'm concerned. Also given the slow sales most dealers seem to have them on at reasonable prices; which is convenient given how much shipping costs from the US to AUS
 
My thoughts exactly. I bought one and modified it after seeing others here who used belt sander to change the blade shape.
It was not as difficult as I had thought.

Original knife:
View attachment 850335


First attempt, didn't like how the blade shape turned out:
View attachment 850343

Second attempt - this was more to my liking. I was careful not to get too close to the nail nick which was the limiting factor on how much metal could be removed without running into it. I used Flitz to polish off "Navy Knife" and the top edges. I was pleased how it turned out.
View attachment 850344
Except now you're not allowed on my boat with that thing on account of the accidental stabbin'
 
...How common is it for manufacturers to use wood that isn't stabilized? and how can you tell before you carry them and this happens?

Back in the days before epoxy, nobody stabilized any type of scale. I have some modern Case and a Queen in ebony plus a Japanese-made Sabre pruner in mystery wood that are not stabilized. I use them and don't find it a problem. If you want any knife to look good for resale, it's best not to carry it.
 
Thanks for the info!

I do buy some knives that I choose not to carry after I purchase them, but rarely do I purchase a knife with the thought "I'm not going to carry this one, it's just for the collection." The only exception to that - for me - is doctor's knives with spatulas. Some of those I purchase with no intent to carry.

However, I have knives that I have carried and used quite a bit, that still look great and function well and that I would be confident to list for sale as "Used - Very Good Condition" that many people would be happy to get at the price I would offer them for. I almost never buy knives with intent to resale - however, if I hadn't already sold some of the knives I've bought in the past, I wouldn't be able to afford to continue to purchase as many as I do.

The photo that was shown of the Navy knife in Old Barn Chestnut after just six months of carry was shocking to me. I've never seen anything like that! Certainly not in a knife that costs more than a few dollars. Since I have no experience in treating or stabilizing wood, and don't wish to experiment on mine, I will be moving on from it. I'm confused on how to proceed, though - I don't want to pass it along without a warning to the buyer.

Back in the days before epoxy, nobody stabilized any type of scale. I have some modern Case and a Queen in ebony plus a Japanese-made Sabre pruner in mystery wood that are not stabilized. I use them and don't find it a problem. If you want any knife to look good for resale, it's best not to carry it.
 
Thanks for the info!

I do buy some knives that I choose not to carry after I purchase them, but rarely do I purchase a knife with the thought "I'm not going to carry this one, it's just for the collection." The only exception to that - for me - is doctor's knives with spatulas. Some of those I purchase with no intent to carry.

However, I have knives that I have carried and used quite a bit, that still look great and function well and that I would be confident to list for sale as "Used - Very Good Condition" that many people would be happy to get at the price I would offer them for. I almost never buy knives with intent to resale - however, if I hadn't already sold some of the knives I've bought in the past, I wouldn't be able to afford to continue to purchase as many as I do.

The photo that was shown of the Navy knife in Old Barn Chestnut after just six months of carry was shocking to me. I've never seen anything like that! Certainly not in a knife that costs more than a few dollars. Since I have no experience in treating or stabilizing wood, and don't wish to experiment on mine, I will be moving on from it. I'm confused on how to proceed, though - I don't want to pass it along without a warning to the buyer.

Stabilizing without vacuum equipment, for an amateur is not too hard.

I have stabilized wood with wood hardened and a mason jar. You just very carefully can the wood in a jar of hardener. Once the air is removed, it takes about five days. Again, be very careful as the hardener is very flammable.

The easiest way, and one that might work for scales that are already attached to wood is to use super glue. It will eventually soak it up and can be lightly sanded or polished. I did that once with cow bone.
 
...Since I have no experience in treating or stabilizing wood, and don't wish to experiment on mine, I will be moving on from it. I'm confused on how to proceed, though - I don't want to pass it along without a warning to the buyer.

Some people like it when scales age with time and use, Case sells "pocket worn bone" just for that type of customer. Just because one person's knife has some wear after 6 months, doesn't mean that'll happen to yours. One man's "carry" could be constant use in an industrial environment and another's could be using it to open mail and the occasional fruit. From that picture, it looks like the scale took some type of impact and/or rubbed against something in a pocket at one time.

I'd just sell it as it is, New in Tube. You can add to the description "unstabilized" if you feel the need, however, unless you hear it from GEC, you really don't know what they did to the wood before or after hafting the knife. For example, some firms use an oil or wax as a protectant before final boxing.
 
chestnut. Many of my knives have a low density and/or are small(think like a peanut or an opinel)
Ah, that makes sense. I'm used to carrying heavier knives, so the Navy seems pretty light in comparison.
 
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