Recommendation? Good Wood?

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Way-Barney

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I cut a burl off a goat willow tree about 15 years ago, I didn't know what to expect so was surprised when I had a pal cut it open for me.
I know willow is used for cricket bats so I would expect it to be pretty tough, but would it be any good for knife handles? It feels a bit light.

Goat Willow Burl.jpg
 
Tom Lewis said:
I would cut it up into blocks and have K & G stabilize it. Looks like the wood has a lot of figure in it. Should make attractive handles.
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Thanks for the reply Tom,

I am in UK and don't have cost effective access to K&G or know anyone that stabilizes wood over here.
 
stuff like that definitely requires stabilization. As for being in the EU....
I'm pretty sure Sam Lurquin, Claude Bouchonville and others use a service in the EU

it may be in the Netherlands ??

not sure but worth looking onto. Cut the wood into oversize blocks and dry it first

Bill
 
Flipping heck, you have all got me looking at vacuum pumps, tanks and resin now I reckon that I can be set up for 300
 
Way-Barney said:
Flipping heck, you have all got me looking at vacuum pumps, tanks and resin now I reckon that I can be set up for 300
Click to expand...

I'd be inclined to send it out despite having the equipment here at home. You can't readily do at home what a place like K&G does. They use extremely high pressure in addition to vacuum. You'd be looking at the "other" type of stabilization with a different polymer like "Cactus Juice". Not the same chemically and quite a different "feel". Study carefully; home stabilizing can be a PITA and you likely won't end up with something that feels like the plasticized wood of a hi-pressure impregnated acrylic stabilizer, should that be what you seek.
 
fitzo said:
I'd be inclined to send it out despite having the equipment here at home. You can't readily do at home what a place like K&G does. They use extremely high pressure in addition to vacuum. You'd be looking at the "other" type of stabilization with a different polymer like "Cactus Juice". Not the same chemically and quite a different "feel". Study carefully; home stabilizing can be a PITA and you likely won't end up with something that feels like the plasticized wood of a hi-pressure impregnated acrylic stabilizer, should that be what you seek.
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I have tracked a company down that does it, I have e-mailed for a quote see what they say.
Also looked at a resin thats supposed to be good, its two part resin and activator and after vacuum it has toi be baked in the oven for 5 hours,

Its called Novacure and supposed to be the same as used by Nova, has anyone heard of that?
 
would anyone be so kind as to show me the best directions to cut it.
the first one is about a foot and the second 10".
both are 1 1/4" thick
 
I'd cut that wood into 2x2" (50mm) square blocks of appropriate length, then have it stabilized. Each block will then make 2-3 handles
 
Way-Barney said:
would anyone be so kind as to show me the best directions to cut it.
the first one is about a foot and the second 10".
both are 1 1/4" thick
Click to expand...
If you're using them on full tang knives just cut them slightly longer than the length you plan on using. The 1 1/2" width should be no problem for stabilization. If they're for pocketknife handles a length of two or three handles plus a bit more for overrun would be fine. You can cut them to the required thickness when they come back. It really depends on how big their vacuum chamber is though, they may be able to stabilize a foot long piece with no problem which would be best as you can then use it for multiple projects. K & G has done a number of foot long 2" square pieces for me with no problems and I'd imagine Novawood probably has the same capacity. I'd ask them before you do any cutting.

Eric
 
My advice is pretty much the same as ea42,
Since the thickness is already decided, just cut it into 1.5" wide strips. What I often do with a unique and small burl is mark it off with a ruler and pencil. That way you can decide where to get the most active burl pattern and what you have to work around like large bark inclusions or voids.

On the top one in the photo, I would cut one block parallel to the cut edge, and then cut the rest up perpendicular to that cut.
On the lower one in the photo, I would make all the cuts parallel along the edge with the little "nose" sticking out.

After the cutting is done, cut the ends square as needed. Try and resist the urge to cut into smaller blocks until you need the wood for handles or scales.
 
I have been in contact Novawood and they wouldn't offer stabilization service below 500 euro.

I haven't been able to found someone who offers stabilization and would confirm they also do pressurizing method.
 
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