Gso 7/7

[B34NS]

Ellie are you saying that it provided NO corrosion resistence, or that it just didn't provide ENOUGH corrosion resistence. Because I'll be pretty disappointed if it provides no corrosion ressitence whatsoever. :grumpy:

Sounds like it wasn't the combo they were looking for. To be fair the steel itself is alloyed for corrosion resistance already, anything else is just icing on the cake or aesthetic

 

[SURVIVE!]

I believe they said they will be offering coatings on the 7/7, just not the DLC coating due to cost. Bummer

I am still experimenting with different coatings, to see what might be the most viable. I've mostly stopped offering the PVD coatings because of a combination of high cost and marginal corrosion resistance. The molecular build up of those coatings is in columns so moisture still can reach the steel and potentially cause pitting. On the plus side, the coating does hold oil well, which provides more protection. All in all it just isn't something I'm ready to put my seal of approval on.

I've also been looking at some tooling grade DLC coatings, which would give much better corrosion resistance but the high temperature of those processes has unpredictably affected the temper on some of the blades I sent out. We experimented with gas nitriding, which more or less turned some blades into glass. I might post a video of that experiment someday. It was pretty funny. We also gave salt bath nitriding a try, which didn't seem to adversely affect the substrate toughness but the black oxide top coating was still susceptible to red rusting. A few hours in some salt water and those blades turned the water orange with rust.

I've even tried some different electroless nickel coatings and even nickel boron, just to see how they would stack up. Of course with those you don't get any color options, just a metal color but I figured it was at least worth looking at. While they didn't rust in the traditional sense, they did turn a strange marbled blue, which is the nickel oxidizing. I'll keep looking for new options and keep my fingers crossed...

So far the most interesting option I've found has been Cerakote. It goes on thin, so it doesn't really create extra drag, it is durable and very corrosion resistant. We've learned however that not all Cerakote applicators are created equal and the end result is highly dependent on the abilities of the applicator. Dirty blasting media or bad prep work can cause flaking and poor application practices can cause the coating to be less durable, so stay away from applicators who aren't recommended by NIC Industries. lol We have met someone here in Idaho who is great, the same gentleman who did the first batch of SK-4 blades but ultimately I would want to bring this in house if we were to offer Cerakote as a factory option. If it becomes something we end up bringing in house, I could always offer recoating services to make an old blade look new again. The exotic, expensive coatings are technically more durable but a Cerakoted blade would be far less problematic to strip and recoat and the variety of coating colors is phenomenal.

-Guy

 

[ManOfSteel89]

That'd be so awesome if you could strip and recoat older blades!! I don't mind cerakote, ESEE uses it and it's not the worst thing ever. I love how a knife looks when it's had its coating beaten a bit anyway. I'm a big fan of the DLC but I've only had it on stainless folders.

 

[dcycleman]

love to see some dlc blades !!!!

 

[Poromenos]

I am still experimenting with different coatings, to see what might be the most viable. I've mostly stopped offering the PVD coatings because of a combination of high cost and marginal corrosion resistance. The molecular build up of those coatings is in columns so moisture still can reach the steel and potentially cause pitting. On the plus side, the coating does hold oil well, which provides more protection. All in all it just isn't something I'm ready to put my seal of approval on.

I've also been looking at some tooling grade DLC coatings, which would give much better corrosion resistance but the high temperature of those processes has unpredictably affected the temper on some of the blades I sent out. We experimented with gas nitriding, which more or less turned some blades into glass. I might post a video of that experiment someday. It was pretty funny. We also gave salt bath nitriding a try, which didn't seem to adversely affect the substrate toughness but the black oxide top coating was still susceptible to red rusting. A few hours in some salt water and those blades turned the water orange with rust.

I've even tried some different electroless nickel coatings and even nickel boron, just to see how they would stack up. Of course with those you don't get any color options, just a metal color but I figured it was at least worth looking at. While they didn't rust in the traditional sense, they did turn a strange marbled blue, which is the nickel oxidizing. I'll keep looking for new options and keep my fingers crossed...

So far the most interesting option I've found has been Cerakote. It goes on thin, so it doesn't really create extra drag, it is durable and very corrosion resistant. We've learned however that not all Cerakote applicators are created equal and the end result is highly dependent on the abilities of the applicator. Dirty blasting media or bad prep work can cause flaking and poor application practices can cause the coating to be less durable, so stay away from applicators who aren't recommended by NIC Industries. lol We have met someone here in Idaho who is great, the same gentleman who did the first batch of SK-4 blades but ultimately I would want to bring this in house if we were to offer Cerakote as a factory option. If it becomes something we end up bringing in house, I could always offer recoating services to make an old blade look new again. The exotic, expensive coatings are technically more durable but a Cerakoted blade would be far less problematic to strip and recoat and the variety of coating colors is phenomenal.

-Guy

Thanks for the very detailed and thorough response. One of the reasons I'll be a long time Survive! Customer!

 

[Funkenstein]

I am still experimenting with different coatings, to see what might be the most viable. I've mostly stopped offering the PVD coatings because of a combination of high cost and marginal corrosion resistance. The molecular build up of those coatings is in columns so moisture still can reach the steel and potentially cause pitting. On the plus side, the coating does hold oil well, which provides more protection. All in all it just isn't something I'm ready to put my seal of approval on.

I've also been looking at some tooling grade DLC coatings, which would give much better corrosion resistance but the high temperature of those processes has unpredictably affected the temper on some of the blades I sent out. We experimented with gas nitriding, which more or less turned some blades into glass. I might post a video of that experiment someday. It was pretty funny. We also gave salt bath nitriding a try, which didn't seem to adversely affect the substrate toughness but the black oxide top coating was still susceptible to red rusting. A few hours in some salt water and those blades turned the water orange with rust.

I've even tried some different electroless nickel coatings and even nickel boron, just to see how they would stack up. Of course with those you don't get any color options, just a metal color but I figured it was at least worth looking at. While they didn't rust in the traditional sense, they did turn a strange marbled blue, which is the nickel oxidizing. I'll keep looking for new options and keep my fingers crossed...

So far the most interesting option I've found has been Cerakote. It goes on thin, so it doesn't really create extra drag, it is durable and very corrosion resistant. We've learned however that not all Cerakote applicators are created equal and the end result is highly dependent on the abilities of the applicator. Dirty blasting media or bad prep work can cause flaking and poor application practices can cause the coating to be less durable, so stay away from applicators who aren't recommended by NIC Industries. lol We have met someone here in Idaho who is great, the same gentleman who did the first batch of SK-4 blades but ultimately I would want to bring this in house if we were to offer Cerakote as a factory option. If it becomes something we end up bringing in house, I could always offer recoating services to make an old blade look new again. The exotic, expensive coatings are technically more durable but a Cerakoted blade would be far less problematic to strip and recoat and the variety of coating colors is phenomenal.

-Guy

Great response. I think Cerakote is a great option. Would love to see some with it and try it out.

Thanks

 

[evltcat]

No DLC or Cerakote for me please. It just doesn't wear well in my experience.
I like my 3V Nekkid!!!!! ----

TOTALLY in for a GSO-7/7 in 3V!!!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[Rasco]

Why do people replace their asking price with the word sold? I get that the knife has to be marked as sold, but it would be nice to see prices after the deal for reference.

I think that is why. I'm not sure, but I think it's a rule.

 

[Funkenstein]

No DLC or Cerakote for me please. It just doesn't wear well in my experience.
I like my 3V Nekkid!!!!! ----

TOTALLY in for a GSO-7/7 in 3V!!!!! :thumbup: :thumbup:

I think it would be a neat option to choose as an addition. I agree that I typically like a naked blade as well but having the option would be pretty appealing to some.

 

[Hard Knocks]

I think that is why. I'm not sure, but I think it's a rule.

Not a rule. Strictly up to the seller whether to edit out the sales price. I believe this is done as a courtesy to the buyer in case he sells the knife later on, then he doesn't have potential buyers leveraging the sales price against him. I like to see the sales price left in as a point of reference as well, but can see why some choose to remove it.

Bring the 7/7's!!

 

[Silver Needle]

Not a rule. Strictly up to the seller whether to edit out the sales price. I believe this is done as a courtesy to the buyer in case he sells the knife later on, then he doesn't have potential buyers leveraging the sales price against him. I like to see the sales price left in as a point of reference as well, but can see why some choose to remove it.

Bring the 7/7's!!

Ah ha! That makes sense, thanks for solving this mystery for me!

 

[Neo]

On british blades the price must be visible at all times, even when the knife is sold.
I applaud this rule, it let you know what the market value of a knife is and helps if there comes a disagreement between seller and buyer later in the process.
If you do a search on bladeforums only thing you ever see is sold.
On other forums the price is mostly left visible but over the years this "sold thing" from bladeforums is used more and more

The seller may ask what he wants, make a profit, nobody is obliged to buy the knife.
Blanking out prices is childish.

 

[Rasco]

I agree, I'd prefer to be able to see what things are selling for, and the post has a time stamp, so it's just the price it sold for at that time.
If someone tried to "leverage that against me", I'd just laugh.

 

[Mike-The-Knife]

I'm with evltcat on this . I like my CPM3v naked too

The tumbled finish is good and smooth making the knife great to cut or baton wood :thumbup:

 

[B34NS]

I agree, I'd prefer to be able to see what things are selling for, and the post has a time stamp, so it's just the price it sold for at that time.
If someone tried to "leverage that against me", I'd just laugh.

Unless you were trying to sell it. This ain't your grandmas auction site.

 

[Rasco]

Unless you were trying to sell it. This ain't your grandmas auction site.

Not sure what you mean. If someone out there is dumb enough and immature enough to try and use some old forum post "against me" or as some kind of attempted leverage to get me to sell one of my beloved knives for less than I'm asking, I'd just dismiss that as stupidity and wait for more serious buyers.

 

[B34NS]

Not sure what you mean. If someone out there is dumb enough and immature enough to try and use some old forum post "against me" or as some kind of attempted leverage to get me to sell one of my beloved knives for less than I'm asking, I'd just dismiss that as stupidity and wait for more serious buyers.

I feel ya, I feel the same way, I've just heard of some nastiness of unwanted emails to the purchaser for more money, etc. I can appreciate those on here trying to retain that level of discretion, but I agree, it should be at an at will thing.

 

[JCW]

I am still experimenting with different coatings, to see what might be the most viable. I've mostly stopped offering the PVD coatings because of a combination of high cost and marginal corrosion resistance. The molecular build up of those coatings is in columns so moisture still can reach the steel and potentially cause pitting. On the plus side, the coating does hold oil well, which provides more protection. All in all it just isn't something I'm ready to put my seal of approval on.

I've also been looking at some tooling grade DLC coatings, which would give much better corrosion resistance but the high temperature of those processes has unpredictably affected the temper on some of the blades I sent out. We experimented with gas nitriding, which more or less turned some blades into glass. I might post a video of that experiment someday. It was pretty funny. We also gave salt bath nitriding a try, which didn't seem to adversely affect the substrate toughness but the black oxide top coating was still susceptible to red rusting. A few hours in some salt water and those blades turned the water orange with rust.

I've even tried some different electroless nickel coatings and even nickel boron, just to see how they would stack up. Of course with those you don't get any color options, just a metal color but I figured it was at least worth looking at. While they didn't rust in the traditional sense, they did turn a strange marbled blue, which is the nickel oxidizing. I'll keep looking for new options and keep my fingers crossed...

So far the most interesting option I've found has been Cerakote. It goes on thin, so it doesn't really create extra drag, it is durable and very corrosion resistant. We've learned however that not all Cerakote applicators are created equal and the end result is highly dependent on the abilities of the applicator. Dirty blasting media or bad prep work can cause flaking and poor application practices can cause the coating to be less durable, so stay away from applicators who aren't recommended by NIC Industries. lol We have met someone here in Idaho who is great, the same gentleman who did the first batch of SK-4 blades but ultimately I would want to bring this in house if we were to offer Cerakote as a factory option. If it becomes something we end up bringing in house, I could always offer recoating services to make an old blade look new again. The exotic, expensive coatings are technically more durable but a Cerakoted blade would be far less problematic to strip and recoat and the variety of coating colors is phenomenal.

-Guy

Thanks for this update Guy. Cerakote sounds like a great option.