Guy Williams

Costume/party stores will have hats, capes and masks.

I remember the Zorro swords with the chalk. I opted for a Union cavalry costume with plastic saber from the Sears&Roebuck catalog. Earlier it was Prince Valiant with shield and sword. Later a lever action carbine and revolver with spring powered cartridges. The fifties and sixties were great decades for toys. As we go into our own sixties and later, our toys and tools tend to reflect our own memories.

Denis must have pounced on the one listing I saw. Don't fret, more will surface.

Cheers

GC
 
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Steve,
The one I bought looks in the photos to be in much better shape than yours was initially.
I don't know if I'll bother to re-finish the guard. It has obvious rust & what looks like some minor pitting, but I might just clean it up & leave it at that level.

The blade's got cosmoline on it, no pitting shown.
Scabbard has rust & pitting.

If I do take the guard down to bare metal, how did you apply your bluing?
How did you enamel the red?

I can sharpen a knife, but I'm mostly in the dark about the best way to get a real edge on a blade this narrow & long.
How did you do yours & how did you modify your tip?
Denis
 
Horse,
Don't want no COSTUME STORE CHINA-MADE-CHEAPIE, want a REAL Zorro mask!!!!! :)

I'd actually, last night after asking for sources here, tried Ebay & found two of these swords, one in good shape & the other....not.
Since I dropped Ebay when they went to Paypal, I had to wait till this morning to have a buddy who does a bunch of antique car parts searching there do the actual buy for me on his account.

I never had any of the Mattel Shoot'n Shell guns, but did have the big-loop Rifleman rifle. :)
Speaking of which, bought the belt buckle derringer, shells, and Greenie Stick'em Caps off Ebay about six years ago.

I'm in a continuing childhood, never really left the first, I can just afford more of the toys now. :)
Denis
 
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DPris said:
Steve,
The one I bought looks in the photos to be in much better shape than yours was initially.
I don't know if I'll bother to re-finish the guard. It has obvious rust & what looks like some minor pitting, but I might just clean it up & leave it at that level.
Click to expand...

That is certainly a choice, it was relatively easy for me to finish it to an acceptably "used" level, without it looking like it got rode hard and put away wet.

DPris said:
The blade's got cosmoline on it, no pitting shown.
Scabbard has rust & pitting.
Click to expand...

Maroon(coarse) scotchbrite pad will remove the rust, followed by a green(medium) and gray(ultra fine) will bring it to satin, at which time cold blueing will do the trick.

DPris said:
If I do take the guard down to bare metal, how did you apply your bluing?
Click to expand...
Lightly heat it, and rub it on, it's that simple. I listed the cold blues that I used earlier in this thread and the parts that I used them on. The directions come with the product and they are not very expensive, a little goes a long way, and they are indispensable for the home knife/gun tinkerer, lol.
DPris said:
How did you enamel the red?
Click to expand...

Ford red model enamel OR nail polish(I prefer the nail polish, gelcoat).....after it is DRY(at least 8 hours)...lightly sand with 800 grit or higher wet/dry and leave it as is....it will pick up some of the metal bits and subdue.

DPris said:
I can sharpen a knife, but I'm mostly in the dark about the best way to get a real edge on a blade this narrow & long.
How did you do yours & how did you modify your tip?
Denis
Click to expand...

With patience, files and sandpaper, you can get a better edge and finish than I got. However, I have no patience and used a Grizzly belt sander/buffer combo....there is no substitute for power equipment in this case. I have 20 years of experience with a belt sander, and really don't know how to do without.

Congratulations! I prefer the red cross guard to the earlier model.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks.
Didn't know how splotchy the cold blue might get on that much surface, or if there was a particular technique to use.
Lightly heat the guard after removal with something like a propane torch, wave the guard around above the burner on a gas stove?

Swab the bluing on with a rag, or cotton balls?

Reluctant to try the edge myself.
Have no access to a belt sander (fortunately, since power tools in my hands are dangerous devices).
Don't have a vice set-up to hold the blade still for a consistent stone approach & angle.

It WILL have to have an edge, though, somehow.

Anybody know a good sword sharpener in or near Salt Lake City? :)

And, thanks for the congratulations.

Glad I opened this thread.
Appreciate mention of this model; it has features I like: the blade configuration, the large guard, and those wood handle slabs.
I dislike leather or "fish" wraps, and really dislike silver wire.
The red's a plus.
The fact that it was genuinely built for use also appeals, even if after the Golden Age of swords.

Looking forward to getting it here.
Denis
 
DPris said:
Thanks.
Didn't know how splotchy the cold blue might get on that much surface, or if there was a particular technique to use.
Lightly heat the guard after removal with something like a propane torch, wave the guard around above the burner on a gas stove?
Click to expand...

The cold blues blend well with whatever finish you leave on the metal....you have to degrease the metal with MEK, use a propane torch, gently....you are warming, not heating.

DPris said:
Swab the bluing on with a rag, or cotton balls?
Click to expand...

Rag or balls, doesn't matter. What does matter is if you try to use Birchwood-Casey, which in my experience sucks....you need to get the three cold bluing solutions I mentioned from Brownell's. That is what I have experience with, and what works.

DPris said:
Reluctant to try the edge myself.
Have no access to a belt sander (fortunately, since power tools in my hands are dangerous devices).
Don't have a vice set-up to hold the blade still for a consistent stone approach & angle.
Click to expand...

Not having tools or skills will definitely set you back.

DPris said:
It WILL have to have an edge, though, somehow.

Anybody know a good sword sharpener in or near Salt Lake City? :)
Click to expand...

Maybe contact Museum Replicas or Albion and ask them who would help you out with your edge....with shipping, you are probably looking at about $100.00+

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks again.

Be nice if the thing came with an edge, but doesn't look like it in the photos.
Pretty blunt tip, too.

No intention of using it, but what's the fun of a pointless & edgeless sword? :)
Denis
 
DPris said:
Thanks again.

Be nice if the thing came with an edge, but doesn't look like it in the photos.
Pretty blunt tip, too.

No intention of using it, but what's the fun of a pointless & edgeless sword? :)
Denis
Click to expand...

Mine had no edge and no tip. This sword was designed to be a slashing/stabbing sword, maybe the last 3 " or so needs to be sharp, and obviously, have a point.

I knew from looking at it what needed to be done....I guess if you want to send it to me I could take care of it, but that is not what I do, so would prefer that you investigate on your own before I take a "stab" at it.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
DPris, you could give Richard J a go. Pretty sure he's still a forum supporter, and if you want razor sharp, he does a great job from the reports I've heard.
 
Thanks guys.

My interest is primarily guns, but swords have held a certain fascination ever since those Zorro days.

Always thought "Someday...."
As I realize my "Somedays" are decreasing in number, time to start doing something about it.

I brought a Wilkinson Army Infantry Officer's dress sword back from England at the end of my stay there years ago.
No edge, no tip, just to look at.
Bought it in the base BX, story was some officer had ordered it, declined to buy when it came in, so they put it up for sale.
Couldn't resist it.

Bought another Prince Charles commemorative Wilkinson sword in London, had some very minor damage.
Just before I left the country, took the train back down to drop it off at the Wilkinson factory for repairs.
They let us wait in their showroom while discussing it.
Saw a Sykes/Fairbairn dagger, when they came back out to tell me they could repair my sword & mail it to me in the States, I commented on the dagger.

They said they could build me one.
How long would it take to mail it?
We can do it right now, if you don't mind waiting.
HELL YES!

So, another 30 minutes wandering around among hundreds of swords, all sizes, medieval on down, two-handed, rapiers, old, new.
If I'd had more money I'da been happy to have them build me more steel just so I could spend more time in that showroom. :)

The only other sword I've picked up was a Hanwei Viking Godfred that caught my eye at a local shop that didn't stay in business long.
That one does have an edge. Two of 'em.

I understand the difference in blade & use styles, just think that even a light-bladed primarily thrust type like the Spanish one should have an edge all the way back.

Where do I find Richard J if I can't get it done locally?
Denis
 
DPris said:
Thanks guys.

Where do I find Richard J if I can't get it done locally?
Denis
Click to expand...

Unlikely you can get it done locally.

CF, pretty sure this sword will not lend itself to razor sharp, the edge will likely chip out.

Richard J is his handle on the Forums, you could PM him.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks.
Agree probably unable to get it done locally, although there used to be a good blade guy in SLC, if I can find him.
Don't need a razor, just an edge than CAN cut. :)

Do I just search Richard J?
Denis
 
You're right STeven, the blade geometry probably won't lend itself to razor sharp, and you probably don't want that anyways for a sword. But yes, you can do a member search for richardj to get to his member page to PM him. Maybe he'll pop in.
 
Apologize for being forum-challenged, but inserted Richard J in the Search box & got a million posts, none of which seem to have him in them..
Better way to narrow him down?
Denis
 
DPris said:
Don't need a razor, just an edge than CAN cut. :)

Do I just search Richard J?
Denis
Click to expand...

This sword was designed to either slash your opponent or run them through. Maybe the last 4" or so towards the tip, as they were used in duels, much of the sword was left with a thick edge.

That is why I made my comments about the edge.....this will cut pool noodles, but is not designed for much more than that....you don't cut with the middle of the sword back...you slash with the tip.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
No luck with Richard, but thanks anyway, Horse.

Steve,
I know, I just have an irrational desire to see the entire edge sharp. :)

Denis
 
Best-known & oldest knife-sharpening outfit in Northern Utah says they won't help.
They've done a couple Enfield bayonets for me in the past, had hopes they might tackle this.
"We don't do swords."

May have to just try it by hand myself.
Which would be more efficient on this blade, a 10-inch whetstone or a hatchet puck?

I can start the initial bevel with a file, I suppose.
Denis
 
Mine's here, the guy in California's a helluva quick shipper.

Blade was in cosmoline, one of the reasons I bought that one.
Almost no pitting, very slight in the fuller corners.

Nobody had played with it as a kid, no dings in the "edge".
Blade's almost straight, maybe 1/8-inch off dead center by the time it reaches its tip.
How much flex can this take, would you estimate, if I try to straighten it?
(If I bust it, it'll switch from my "Zorro" sword to a Chuck Connors "Branded" sword. :) )

It's a good candidate for "restoration", I think I'll take it further than just cleaning & stabilizing.

One disappointment is that the guard's quite loose.
Whereas the pommel appears to be quite tight.

I'm thinking it'll need a shim somewhere.

Small pair of bent noodle-nose pliers won't budge the pommel nut at first attempt, I'll have to fiddle (carefully) with that.

The blade markings appear to have been mostly buffed off; nothing visible below Artilleria & the serial numbers are barely readable.

As a museum piece, not.
As a historical piece, worthy of respect.
Once re-finished & sharpened (which I normally would never do on a historical piece), finally got my Zorro sword & only took me 50+ years to do it. :)

I very much appreciate the help.
Denis
 
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DPris said:
Mine's here, the guy in California's a helluva quick shipper.

Blade was in cosmoline, one of the reasons I bought that one.
Almost no pitting, very slight in the fuller corners.

Nobody had played with it as a kid, no dings in the "edge".
Blade's almost straight, maybe 1/8-inch off dead center by the time it reaches its tip.
How much flex can this take, would you estimate, if I try to straighten it?
(If I bust it, it'll switch from my "Zorro" sword to a Chuck Connors "Branded" sword. :) )

It's a good candidate for "restoration", I think I'll take it further than just cleaning & stabilizing.
Click to expand...

Not sure how you can bend it back to "straight".......it's flexible, just not sure "how" flexible. Luckily, mine is straight.

DPris said:
One disappointment is that the guard's quite loose.
Whereas the pommel appears to be quite tight.

I'm thinking it'll need a shim somewhere.

Small pair of bent noodle-nose pliers won't budge the pommel nut at first attempt, I'll have to fiddle (carefully) with that.
Click to expand...

Take the leather piece off of the sword, there should be a cross-pin underneath it. If it isn't there....that is your problem.

You will have to disassemble the sword. Take the wooden handle scales off carefully. if the spanner nut on the bottom will not spin in either direction, you should try lightly heating it, and possibly spray the area around the pommel with a penetrating lubricant.....a few rounds of this should allow you to take the spanner nut off.

Most needle nose pliers are too thick to work in those holes, you will need a pair of jeweler's pliers called chain nose pliers, if yours are indeed too big.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
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