HI Scramsax/Seax/Saex Design Thread

Just for fun...a seax knife (belt size):

seax_knife.jpg


Hope it doesn't complicate things...:D

(I bet Sarge likes this one...I know I do = cute lil' bugger)
 
Dan, it looks like a good worker to me. Might come in useful to give myself the upcoming "bad haircut". Scares my guys when they see me shave my head with a knife, that's why I do it, a little fear is healthy.:eek: :D

Sarge
 
Sarge,

Most of the guys I was in with thought the same way about me too, but I was in the Marines. :D
 
"I like 4D"

I think 4D is the nicest of the batch as well, but I already said I was going to hush my whining, so y'all please ignore me.

Ten inch blade and five inch handle? Okay, okay, I'll hush.;)

Sarge
 
stephen,
Beautiful blades, thanks for posting. I haven't seen your posts for a while, hope the the new year is treating you well.
Regards,
Greg
 
It has come to my attention that the modern "Hawkbill" blade that has come back into fashoin may be derived in part from the Scram, and the really curvy ones may be derived from the Kerambit.

Just an observation.

Keith
 
Hey Pen,

Originally posted by pendentive
Here it is (in a cho-less version) on top of a 12" AK.

scramsax5.gif


For me, a handle (including bolster) less than 4.5" is uncomfortable, so each of these designs is around 4.75"

Here's a grid layout (in cho-less glory...)

scramsax6.gif



The blade is only 7.25" long. Still a beast at 12" OAL and not carry-able (even in TX :eek: ).

Does anyone want a longer blade? (or even the more sword-like version?)

Yesyes! To both questions! I *REALLY* like the tip and blade profile of 1. I find the other styles too crude. A long, 12", false-edged, say 2-3" along the tip, with the blade dropped, to form a guard, and a curved handle like C. *THAT* is my fave and would be a dream come true! :D:D:D
 
The kamis are going to think we're crazy...

For the next project, can we get one of those United Cutlery Gil HIbben copies, make it look like it was carved out of wood, and send it off to Nepal? :)

P.S. - Looks great so far. I think I can hear my pcketbook groaning already...
 
Yup Josh, check out my thread titled "OT: Don't throw away old files".
Bobwhite's got the bottom one in the picture now, hopefully it's earning it's keep for him.

Sarge
 
Yup Josh, I use a hand drill (read that one you crank by hand) to bore the pilot hole for the tang. A needle rasp serves to widen out a slot for the tapered tang. On bigger knives the pilot hole leaves a half moon shaped opening on either side of the tang. These I fill with carved wooden wedges on either side of the tang. This type of construction is an actual technique that was used in the middle ages as documented in J. Cowgill's book "Knives and Scabbards" published by the museum of London.

The only concession I make to modern times is two part epoxy instead of using pitch, hide glue, etc.. I've made a lot of knives for a lot of people for more than a decade, and none have broken or come apart. One, a four inch blade belt knife, looked like hell after being carried awhile by a young captain company commander in the combat engineers. But, it still cut good and earned it's keep. That's what I made it to do.:D

Sarge
 
Question:

What thickness of blade are we lookin at for this HI Scramasax?

I was thinking somewhere between 50-60 mm (or 3/16" - 1/4").
 
Originally posted by pendentive
Question:

What thickness of blade are we lookin at for this HI Scramasax?

I was thinking somewhere between 50-60 mm (or 3/16" - 1/4").


I'd lean more to 1/4"-3/8", personally...
 
Back
Top