HOG B8 custom Handle update!

Curious, was the rust on the tang when the grip was removed? I was wondering if it's better to order knives with a coating and strip the blade only? That way the coating can protect the tang from rusting. Am I correct on that?
 
papercutter said:
Curious, was the rust on the tang when the grip was removed? I was wondering if it's better to order knives with a coating and strip the blade only? That way the coating can protect the tang from rusting. Am I correct on that?
Click to expand...
Yes, it had a small bit of surface rust on each side that wiped off easily. I left it for the photos just to show exactly what it looked like when I removed the handle.
 
Boss1911 said:
Great minds think alike... I think the shape will work but I don't have a extra regulator handle. I really like the shape so I may base a handle on the regulator shape. I'm also thinking about the Library Heart and BURP style handles.
View attachment 2702679View attachment 2702680
Click to expand...


Is that a little rust on the handle from under the resc? or decarb etc?


ETA: Sorry posted this from page one not realizing there was a page two. 😁 Thanks for all the awesome info and pics!
 
Any idea how you plan to proceed? Materials,? method? etc?
 
Cobalt said:
Any idea how you plan to proceed? Materials,? method? etc?
Click to expand...
I'm planning on doing a "Frame Handle" using micarta for the frame and Arizona Ironwood slabs. I think I can use some small hidden pins and epoxy to hold everything together and the original lanyard hole with a pin or possibly a new flaired tube to secure the handle.
I haven't settled on a handle shape yet, I made a rough drawing last night based on a Liberty Heart handle.
 
That may work. The curvature of the tang is the only limiting factor. You may want to consider making your own micarta or glass fiber(G10) directly on the tang itself. You make a large block of it, and then can shape it any way you want. This is basically, how Mission knives and Mad Dog knives made their handles. I have done this to some test knives and it worked, except for my crappy shaping of the handle. Once the stuff hardens it is nearly impossible to remove. So if you go this route make sure you coat steel with a vapor barrier on the tang to prevent rust from creeping under the handle. Something like POR15 will due. They were one of the first but there is plenty of others these days. To give you an idea of what I mean here is a video of mad dog knife handles being made

 
This will be cool! Forging a new path into unchartered adventures! :)

That little bit of rust~ what's it's life been? a user? tough life? or layed around inside mostly?
I remember someone took slabs off a coated blade that was a user, and one that sat in the dark - and there was some rust and flaking. But I think they were pretty old.
I've pulled quite a few, but never more than a year or 2 old. They used different coatings way back I recall.
There's probably no way of ever preventing some moisture at some point finding it's way.

Cool project.
 
Leonardo63 said:
This will be cool! Forging a new path into unchartered adventures! :)

That little bit of rust~ what's it's life been? a user? tough life? or layed around inside mostly?
I remember someone took slabs off a coated blade that was a user, and one that sat in the dark - and there was some rust and flaking. But I think they were pretty old.
I've pulled quite a few, but never more than a year or 2 old. They used different coatings way back I recall.
There's probably no way of ever preventing some moisture at some point finding it's way.

Cool project.
Click to expand...
I just traded for this one earlier this year but I don't think it has seen much use. I was surprised at how clean it was under the handle. The handle fit was really tight so I don't think you would ever get a level of rust that would effect the strength of the blade.
 
Funny you should ask, I have been working on it. I have the frame for the tang cut out and fitted and the scales rough cut. I will take some pictures of the work in progress...
 
20250428_205025.jpg
The top of the handle is kind of thin so I'm going to hide a small stainless steel pin between the middle and the scales. I'm also planning on using thin brass liners between the frame and scales. I will epoxy everything and put a mosaic pin in the original hole. The handle is just rough shaped, I'm going to take some belly out of it and trim it where the silver sharpie is to start. The scales are nearly 3/8" thick each so I have plenty of room for shaping. I'll get better pictures soon.
 
I have made progress... I have also realized the promise of "Better Pictures" exceeds my ability.
20250516_192157.jpg

20250516_192144.jpg
This is where I'm at. The handles are just roughly profiled and not yet glued but all the pin holes are in place. I have the original 1/4" with a brass rod for now but I will use a nice mosaic pin when I'm done. There is 6-8 small hidden stainless pins to support the connections of everything. I hope to keep these hidden after profiling the handle.
My next step is to refine the handle profile, I will take detailed (well as detailed as I can) photos before I start with the epoxy.
 
This will give you a idea of the difference between where I'm at and a normal Basic handle.
20250516_192124.jpg

20250516_191433.jpg

I'm trying for something based on the Silent Knight handle (it fits the angle of the tang very well)

20250516_192253.jpg

What do you think... Just kidding I'm well beyond thinking... Please stay tuned for the carnage...

Brian
 
Great pics—really like the comparisons with original handles to see what’s what. Looks like that’s turning out really nice! 👍
 
I don't wanna sway you, but be Very careful with the brass.
It conducts heat like a mofo. Which if it gets too hot will ruin your epoxy.

Don't ask me how I know. I've had to remake a few handles.
Dip in water on every pass, if you are using a grinder.I
Filing is easier causing less heat, but it's slower.
Good Luck! :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top